Just curious I don't have a band saw yet i wanna get one next year. I am usuing a saws all and the 24tpi blades are not lasting lol.

Any tips ? i use cutting oil and so forth

 

is your sawzall on/off or can you at least contreol the speed. most are controlable i would slow down and use a 10tpi blade. im serious. i use a 10tpi on slow with my bandsaw works perfectly and the blade has lasted for about a year and a half now. even thought its not a sawzall its still a saw with teeth. i dont do to much work but i use it atleast 4 or 5 times a week on metal. 10tpi and slow down dont worry about oil for cutting just have patients and just incase i didnt mention it SLOW DOWN.

 

get some lenox gold sawzall blades... they are not that much more expensive (which is offset by their longer life) and can be bought through any electrical distributor/ retailer who carries lenox brand (I know, cause I work for a distributor with about 30 branches here in the midwest).

you will not go through them as quickly... I have seen them cut heavy wall rigid conduit over and over, without dulling anywhere near as fast as the standard bimetal blades.

though, I use a portaband or a bandsaw now for most anything since the family business has them for sometime to cut pvc, emt, grc, imc, strut, etc... the sawzalls still see action though quite a bit though.

 

oh the reason I say get the gold blades is because they are titanium edged and reinforced teeth.


Modified by twkdCD595 at 8:37 AM 12/20/2007

 

stainless is going to eat up teeth regardless of what you use. best bet is to buy better blades like above said, and go slow. theyll get eaten soon enough but at least it wont be every blade.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious I don't have a band saw yet i wanna get one next year. I am usuing a saws all and the 24tpi blades are not lasting lol.

Any tips ? i use cutting oil and so forth</TD></TR></TABLE>

completely the wrong blade for cutting stainless pipe

I use 8/12 tpi lenox blades with coolant for cutting sched stainless pipe. My chips are almost the perfect size with that blade. (on my bandsaw)

I have no idea about a sawzal, never ever even picked one up.

 

One thing that a lot of people do wrong with a sawzall is using too much pressure. You don't have to force the blade into something. All that will do is dull the blade. I always smack my good friend and tell him to let off it cause I can go months with one blade and it looks new, but give him one exhaust pipe to cut and the teeth are gone. He says he's not using any pressure at all... Riiiight.
Let the tool do the work. Back off, and then play around with the speed and see what cuts it best. Slower may take more time, but that's time you're not running out for more blades.

 

Well guys i tired 3 different blades and so forth. I can not use coolant with the sawsall.

I got 24tpi blades and some cutting oil and i just rest the blade on the work and let it cut. Im getting rought i dunno 6-8 good cuts per blade so far.

I tried 12tpi and the thing just grabs and throws me around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

completely the wrong blade for cutting stainless pipe

I use 8/12 tpi lenox blades with coolant for cutting sched stainless pipe. My chips are almost the perfect size with that blade. (on my bandsaw)

I have no idea about a sawzal, never ever even picked one up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How is that the wrong blade ? My machine calls for 18/24 but I can't find 24 in the size I need

 

Well guys here is what worked for me cutting 1.5" and 2.5" SS 304 piping.

6" long 24tpi blade at full speed and Water as a coolant. If i can tape the pipe up fill it with water the blade cut threw like butter. I did a whole header with one blade and its still cutting. Last header i used 4 blades with cutting oil.

I would make my mark cut then full speed let the weight of the sawz all cut and with a spray bottle mist the blade and it never got hot. As soon as the blade went 75% threw it would hit the water in the pipe and literaly the thing cut threw the pipe like a butter knife in butter.

Josh

A wise friend helped me out thanks Cote and Patti

 

If you can find them, get 22tpi blades they last for ever with s.s.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How is that the wrong blade ? My machine calls for 18/24 but I can't find 24 in the size I need </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't put too much weight on what your machine booklet says.

I have tried many different blades with varying amounts of success.

I had problems with blade wander on my 8x12 saw, however it was aligned properly and the arm tracked almost a perfect z axis.

The problem was what i was cutting, what blade i was using and down force.

Next time you go to your local tool/grinding shop to get your blade made; bring some chips with you, let the machinest look at them, tell him what blade your using, what your cutting and what he thinks.

 

i get my 24 tpi blades for my bandsaw at harbor freight. thats pretty much all i use to cut whatever im cutting.

 

I've been using a blu-mol xtreme demolition & rescue 9" 14tpi blade with my sawzall. I bought it because it was the most sturdy blade available at Home depot. they didn't have an 18tpi version for this blade. The only other blade sold in singles is the dewalt and that blade is too flimsy.