Short Across the Power Cables ’98 Accord

I have come to the conclusion I should hang up the auto repair tools after attempting to replace the power cables – a seemingly benign task - and in the process melted the battery post due to a short.

Well, I have been ignoring a starting problem for a while. The car always started, but sometimes it would take several tries, including turning the steering wheel while starting.

I have previously looked at the power cables and noticed they were badly corroded – especially the (-) side. Now, understanding the car is a piece of junk (runs great but not worth much). I decided to address the periodic starting problem by replacing the cables (cost effectively).

(1) First I removed the power cables. (+) went to the starter solenoid and fuse box. (-) to the car chassis and bracket near the starter (engine mount).
(2) I then went to the auto store and purchased a (+) terminal connector, (-) terminal connector, and two generic cables (4 and 8 gauge)
(3) The repair consisted of cutting the (+) cable at the post connector and splicing the two (now independent) wires with the new (+) terminal connector. On the (-) side, I replaced all wires. I simply ran a wire from the chassis back to the post and the other wire from the bracket back to the post. The new (-) terminal connector had a wing nut so I could join the two (-) cables at this point.
(4) I connected the (+) cable to the battery after connecting to the fuse box and starter solenoid.
(5) After connecting the two (-) wires at the new (-) terminal connector, I momentarily “tapped” the (-) terminal to the battery and sparks and molten lead flew in the air.
(6) With the (-) disconnected – actually never was permanently connected – I checked the resistance between the (+) cable and the (-) cable and it measured a short. I kept removing cable connections and to try to isolate the problem, but didn’t have any luck. I noticed (with all the cables disconnected) that the resistance between the fuse box (where the (+) connects to the 100A fuse) and the (+) location on the starter solenoid was a Few THOUSAND ohms. When measuring the resistance from the chassis to the same point on the starter solenoid, the result was a short. How can (+) location on the starter solenoid be at the same potential as the chassis? Obviously if I connect the (+) battery to this point I will create a dead short across my battery. I would greatly appreciate any advice.


Thanks,

James



Modified by Brand X at 2:29 PM 12/18/2007

 

Either something other than the cables was not working properly, or the action of changing the cables caused the problem. I read elsewhere that the (+) post on the starter (which has two nuts) can contact the casing causing the short. I recall the inner nut was loose. I am not sure if the post can rotate, or exactly how it can move, but this is the only logical explanation (that I can think of) for the problem. I will look at this tomorrow.

 

For anyone curious, I took apart the solenoid and found the (+) pin (which goes to the battery) was contacting solenoid frame internally. Internally this piece is semicircular, shaped like a fender; it mates with the plunger when activated. A red insulator was broken into many pieces presumably from over-torque during the power cable change. This is all that protects the small gap between the pin and the chassis – in this case causing a short across the battery.

Lesson learned: be careful tightening this.

 

thanks for posting up the fix

 

my damn nut on starter came loose i guess cause (+) to short and started a fire aint that a bitch i havent touched that damn wire.