hey guys, im do for an alignment and i never have actually gotten a true alignment after installing all my new suspension, i have an ek hatch cx with 205-15-50's, can some1 give me their TUNED suspension settings please, this is just a baseline that i need, but i don't want to go with stock settings, i want something more aggressive, ill be tuning the car with a pyrometer in the summertime, but i want to have some fun between now and then, thanks guys i appreciate any of the help, and yes i have front and rear camber adjustable control arms so input those as well, thanks

 

anyones settings would be a guess at best. stiffness of springs, shock damper strength, sway bars, track type, surface type, number and type of corners, etc, etc. Lots of things make a difference to the settings.

if you run fairly stiff springs, dampers and sways less camber is required, 3* should be a decent starting point in the front, 1.5-2* in the rear.
Caster, marginally adjustable, the more the better IMO.
toe I always set to zero when driven on the street.

NOTE: this is for track duty, not parkinglot type racing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyones settings would be a guess at best. stiffness of springs, shock damper strength, sway bars, track type, surface type, number and type of corners, etc, etc. Lots of things make a difference to the settings.

if you run fairly stiff springs, dampers and sways less camber is required</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pretty much my thoughts.

I'm usually hesitant to recommend actual values, but as long as you understand that my words are just suggestions for a baseline and not gospel of how it should be, then read on. If the car is primarily street driven, I'd start out in the ballpark of -1.5 to -2.5 degrees of static camber up front and -1.0 to -2.5 at the rear. Toe at 0.00 all around or very slight toe-in (positive) at the rear. Adjust as necessary for desired handling dynamics.

If the car is tracked or autocrossed, or has low roll stiffness, you may find that you'll want more static camber all around and slight toe-out (negative) up front.

 

hahaha thanks guys, my car was stolen this morning, go expletiveing figure, it was pretty badass, i never got a chance to tune the suspension with a pyrometer after i dumped sooo much money in it.....here was the sweet rides suspension though......full es poly bushings excpet for stock trailing arms, omni power coilovers, and lca's, asr subframe brace with civic type r 22mm sway, st front sway at 23.8mm, and full adjustable camber front and rear, just wanted to get an aggressive baseline to have some fun with before this spring where i was actually going to sit down and tune it at a local deserted parking lot, but we will see, the killer part is i just rebuilt the d16y7, 76mm vitaras with eagle rods and a pnp head, it was going to be boosted in the spring with a N/A delta cam 272 and a t25, and i was hoping to get to 8000rpms in this badboy, with a killer powerband and about 250 hp, but i will never know....

 

sucks dude... damn theives

 

sucks i had a truck stolen once ,still think of what i would of done to it. theives = ... as for alignment Front=1/8 toe-out w/ 3-3.5camber / Rear=1/8 toe-in w/ 2-2.5 camber.

 

i was told to always set toe in front to zero no matter what.

track, drift etc..

 

A touch of toe-out in the front can help with initial turn-in.