94 dx
d16y7
p75

I know I'm getting power to the ecu because the I'm getting a cel for o2 due to the fact that there isnt one.

The fuel pump is priming.

The motor is cranking.

The ecu fuse is good.

The starter signal fuse is good.

I figured the distributor was bad so I put in another. I got both for free I could understand the first not working...but both? There's a slight chance of that happening.

I searched google and found a thread somewhere where this guy could not get his car to start for months and when he replaced the cgs fuse (#24) it started right up. The #24 CGS fuse is fine but there is another CGS fuse in the top left of the dashboard fusebox and I noticed that there is something that is not a fuse in there.

A. I will take any suggestions
B. WTF is CGS
C. How does it affect my car

 

to track down the source you need a test light and a buddy. you may also want a good repair manual for electrical troubleshooting.

but first, double check all of your ground wires. also try to find a donor ECU to try out for testing purposes. slide another ECU in that'll match your setup and see if it works at all.

about the distributors, unless the second one you put in was new, i wouldn't be suprised if it was bad. slip a new ignitor in and see if that fixes it. if not, start working your way through the wires starting at the spark plugs and going back through the dist. and then to the ECU with your test light and troubleshooting book.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamark35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to track down the source you need a test light and a buddy. you may also want a good repair manual for electrical troubleshooting.

but first, double check all of your ground wires. also try to find a donor ECU to try out for testing purposes. slide another ECU in that'll match your setup and see if it works at all.

about the distributors, unless the second one you put in was new, i wouldn't be suprised if it was bad. slip a new ignitor in and see if that fixes it. if not, start working your way through the wires starting at the spark plugs and going back through the dist. and then to the ECU with your test light and troubleshooting book.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Switch that to a dvm = digital volt meter and you would be good to go. You should never use a test light on any car. Especially one with a ecu or airbags. A test light will put feed back on a wire that you probe into. I seen to much damage because of them.

 

My friend drove over and we put my ecu in his car and his ecu in my car...his car started right up and mine still wouldnt start.

I am trying a known working distributor tomorrow with an external coil and hopefully that will do the trick.


No info on the cgs?

 

do you hear the fuel pump? Is the main relay clicking?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you hear the fuel pump? Is the main relay clicking?</TD></TR></TABLE>

read the first post and no.

 

you don't have to break the wires insulation to use a test light. you are right though, a DVM would work too, but every Honda technician i know uses a test light; a good one in the right way and has no problems.

 

The fuel pump won't prime if you are not hearing a click from the main relay. It should not. Can you test the ground on the main relay and the ignition wire on the main relay.

 

Turn the key to on position and check for power to the coil in the distributor. If no power, you might have an open in the power wire. If you do have power check the resistance on all of the plug wires. Also it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor circuit or the Camshaft Position Sensor circuit. I believe they need to be working in order for the car to start.

 

it was the distributor...both i received were bad.