I'm looking at getting a different setup [had some damage and thought it was all fixed...but two front shocks are toast] and wanted to see what everyone else is running. Stuck between a few different makes and trying to figure it all out.
Thanks in advance...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J28S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Stuck between a few different makes and trying to figure it all out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which ones?

 

» Search Results

Your search for suspension returned 19 results.

Select "Archives" and RR/Autox specified as forum. There's some decent stuff there, check that out, then get back to us.

 

Thanks but I did check the search engine out and the results didn't help much at all...didn't have the info I desired. I'm not looking at what people run on street cars or cars that also run in HPDE, etc. Looking at "Race Cars". Not looking for suspension suggestions or which suspension people like...merely what the different suspensions competitors have on their car (EP and H1/H2 competitors from east to west cost).

I'm strongly looking at the 2812 and Ohlin, but like the Moton and JRZ...just don't like the prices and how hard it is going to be to dial them in (i.e. having to dyno them after each adjustment to get them right). More than anything curious about other competitors suspension.

 

Now see, we need to know that. 98% of the people asking that question are noob amateurs, and as you know information for what they'd be purchasing has been covered thousands of times here. There are a handful of people running the higher-end stuff here. Andrie Hartanto might be using Motons.

 

You don't have to dyno the Ohlins/moton/JRZ after each adjustment.

 

currantly blown junk (made me smoother)
next-PIC or buddyclub

 

Note: as the subject title indicates..."ROAD RACE CARS".

93slammed
- I've talked with Ohlin and Moton, to ensure i don't change the settings of the prior, I will need to have shocks dyno'd after each high speed rebound, low speed rebound, high speed compression and high speed rebound. If not, for an example, after testing and find that 75% firm on HSR is perfect, and I go to change the LSR...that 75% firm will change to 60 or 70 or 80...sort of like when you change the spring perch height for the left front...the percentage of weight moved (cross weights) will be changed...same principle.

For the guys that run in the Honda Challenge - H1 - what shocks do you use? Thanks in advance...

Lobuck - thanks...I've heard some good things about the PIC...

 

last I remember, you get tagged with a big fat 75lbs weight penalty if you run external reservoirs on your H1 car.

Our coilovers, while having been used/are being used on a lot of track cars, aren't really on the same level as what you're cross shopping, those JRZ/Motons. For starters, our adjustable damping coilovers are only single-adjustable, in rebound. Makes tuning easier for sure, but of course your options are more limited.

 

Many of us in H1 run PIC's we do and have some great success with them. Yes they do not compare to a remote res. shock but we are talking 4-5k vs 1100. Other are using Tein, Koni single adjutable's, buddy club etc...

If I was going to take it up a notch it would be the Koni 2812

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J28S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Note: as the subject title indicates..."ROAD RACE CARS".
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just to end my part in all this, again, we have LOTS of people coming here saying, "yo, what suspension can I run on my roadrace car?" and have no idea what they're talking about. It's nothing personal, just a reflex reaction

FWIW, I've used old Ohlins and like them a lot, and have briefly driven a car with Spoon N1 Showa dampers, which I liked even more. Both of these were single adjustable though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just to end my part in all this, again, we have LOTS of people coming here saying, "yo, what suspension can I run on my roadrace car?" and have no idea what they're talking about. It's nothing personal, just a reflex reaction
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same as people arguing with us about frickin rear brake pads. people are stupid.
SBFTMFW

 

Dude, you are the ******* master of acronym innovation. DWYW is my favorite

 

Cellular Vulkollan foam parts for suspension from Pleiger... they can make the foam to fit your curve...

 

WTF?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking the same thing, but wasn't gonna say anything. When I get home I'll have to see if google has anything to say about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steelerpaguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cellular Vulkollan foam parts for suspension from Pleiger... they can make the foam to fit your curve...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure bushing material suggestions really apply here, but...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by castelastomers.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Vulkollan® polyurethane in its primary form is a polyurethane elastomer based on naphthalene-1,5-diisocyanate (Desmodur® 15), polyester polyol and special chain extenders. Vulkollan is produced by hot casting, and is the ideal choice in all application areas that call for exceptionally high resistance to wear combined with a high mechanical and dynamic load-bearing capacity.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm running the Koni 2812's this season so I'll be able to give some feedback after the next VIR event. Last season I was using Tein RE's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running the Koni 2812's this season so I'll be able to give some feedback after the next VIR event. Last season I was using Tein RE's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Be prepared to go faster!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running the Koni 2812's this season so I'll be able to give some feedback after the next VIR event. Last season I was using Tein RE's.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Good on you mate for the 2812 choice

 

I'm running 2812s as well. Probably way too good of a shock for me, but I really do like them. A friend of mine (and much faster driver) runs 3011s. The only thing he doesn't like about the 3011s is the bump adjustment procedure, but they're tons cheaper than the 2812s! to Lee G. at Koni for all his help and patience!!

On the 2812s and 3011s, we're running the eyelet top mount too, so adjustment isn't as easy at it normally would be with the usual Honda top shock mount.

 

im on a new set of buddycruds for this year. we'll see how they fair. but one of these years i'm gonna have to put some real shocks on the car.

 

If you stick to the Moton double adjustables, you won't have to worry about a high speed adjustment changing the low speed setting and vice versa. Also, with the multi adjustable shocks, if you always follow the same procedure (IE, set one setting first, then the next) then you can repeatably get the same setting.

I went with 2812's. I didn't like the packaging issues that came with an external reservoir shock and the added cost for the other brands didn't seem to bring enough additional performance to the table to justify the premium.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I went with 2812's. I didn't like the packaging issues that came with an external reservoir shock and the added cost for the other brands didn't seem to bring enough additional performance to the table to justify the premium.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The cost gap is a WHOLE LOT smaller then it used to be.

 

True, and 2812s have gone up quite a bit in cost from what I've been told. I know they're much more expensive now than when I bought them.