hey there guys ive been having an issue w/my sway bar for a while now (long story short my friend decided to make it easier to install the dcrh we needed to remove the swaybar completely so he decided to loosen up the combination of the hex bolt and the 14mm bolt) so anyways the only one he loosened up was the one on the passenger side but my question is do u need to have both sides of (driver n passenger) compressed to tightned the hex and 14mm bolts??? thanks guys

 

Are you asking if you need to retorque all sway bar bracket bolts to avoid any issue? With these bolts, it really won't matter if you don't torque/have a torque wrench. Use about the same strength for the bolts.

I would (and did) torque all header bolts/nuts to spec though. I think it was ~32 lbs/ft.

 

sorry if i dnt make much sense but i mean like have the weight on the car compressing both sides to tighten the endlikns w/a hex key n the 14mm bolt???

 

Do you have adjustable endlinks or stock?

 

they're stock

 

Then your sway bar is barely adjustable (if at all). I can't remember if the endlink hole is big enough to allow any adjustments. I doubt it. Anyways, it will be perfectly fine.

 

but the 14mm bolt is loose and its making the swayybar make a clunking noise but am asking if to tighten that bolt along w/the hex bolt do u need to have the weight of the car compress both sides to tighten these bolts??

 

No, just the allen wrench inside the "bolt" part of the endlink while tightening with an open-ended wrench. Maybe you didn't tighten enough the first time...

 

yeah, this is a common issue when installing a sway bar. its best to jack up the entire front end so no weight is on either tire to pre-load the suspensioin. tighten the bolts/nuts and if you need to make adjustments for a tighter setting ( if you have adjustabel end links or bars ) then use a jack to raise or lower the wheel into position where you need to then tighten the bolts/nuts and if possible re-torque them to fact spec. most people just torque till tight, which is fine too if you dont have a torque rench.

i would however sugest investing in a set of Hotchkis Performance adjustable end links. they are a lot stronger and fully adjustable. you may end up bending or even breaking the factory links due to the aftermarket bar being thicker / stronger.

 

I recommend CorSport endlinks because they eliminate the awful hex bolt and aren't $86 (I got mine on ebay for $42 shipped, still new)

http://www.corsportusa.com/sto...d=722

 

thanks man i torqued the 14mm bolt down to 43f/lbs but i still keep hearing the clanking noise i know its my swaybar cuz eversince dat incident ive been hearing this noise...the swaybar is stock but idk wats wrong it pisses me off to hear this all the time i make turns or a stop...

 

If all sway bar bolts are torqued down right, it's probably the header hitting something. But I too have a DCRH and a 28mm sway bar that doesn't hit . I still say it's the header not the sway bar.

 

umm, dumb question, but did you forget to clearence the metal along the frame/body seam that protrudes about 3/4 inch???? if so, you may be hearing the sway bar hitting that seam. not all cars have this issue, but i had it on mine too. i thought the links or bar was loose and clanking around, but when i inspected it i noticed scrapes in the newly installed sway bar from hitting this obstruction when the suspension bottem out. lol

 

umm both sides are cleared 3/4in from the frame i made sure of that yesterday, bolts on the brackets are torqued to 32ft/lbs and the 14mm bolts are also torqued to 43ft/lbs....as for the header ill be rt back n inspect dat real quick