Ok this is the second time I changed my suspension and I really dont wanna end up spending more money on shocks or full coilovers.

1st time I had Tokico HPs with Skunk Coilovers. BAD CHOICE!!! Im talking old skool skunks.. Not skunk2...!

2nd Time... Tokico Illuminas and H&R Sport Springs. They weren't too bad in the beginning but now it seems like its sagged really low and I'm about 1 inch from the floor. Ride height looks nice but its seems like im bottoming out on almost everything. Im riding on stock rims and stock tire size. Shocks are set at 5 in the front and 3 in the back. Seems to be the best stiffness so the car doesnt bounce like crazy when i hit a bump and the rain gaurds wont scrape the ground.

I believe the shocks are still in good shape. I've been ridding on them for only about 6 months. No squeeks or anything..

I've been researching like crazy and Right now I'm leaning on Eibach Sports? Wouldnt that be basically the samething tho?

I checked the basic guide to accords and thats wat I went on at first. Can I get some opinions off peoples rides? Anyone have any suggestions?

I'm in NJ and the roads are horrible in most places..

Thanks in advance!!

 

From what I've read in numerous places and from the people I've talked to, Ground Control Coilovers and Koni Yellow struts seems to be the way to go. I haven't built my suspension yet, but this is the way I will be going.

 

First, if the ride height is alright, you CANT be "sagging" on the springs. It sounds like the second setup is sitting "straight", but is BOTTOMING OUT on dips/potholes/bumps.

A real question here- if the car is sitting square across the front/back and the diagonals, the springs have probably no sagged. If so, are you sure you haven't lowered the car too far for realistic STREET use in your area?

You can spend $$$$ all you want, but may still bottom out often. The problem isn't with the hardware, it's with the ROADS. Expensive drop setups are designed for glass-smooth racetrack use, NOT for areas having rough streets, parking lots and freeways. I will repeat again for those slightly mentally slow- the $$$ setups you see are designed for glass-smooth racetrack use, period.

The car is "bottoming out" on the springs, or whatever you install, because the setup is not engineered with enough vertical "float" before the springs or other hardware hits maximum vertical travel. This is magnified over speed-bumps, through swales, etc. That's why OEM setups ride "high" and are mushy.

I have had resonds to this argument "I dropped my car 2.5" and have no problems- I just have to really really slow down coming off curbs, over bumps, through swales". If this is true, the car has been over-dropped for normal street use! You may learn to drive to get around it, but the problems will never go away.

Check the car again very carefully. If all the "heights" match across front/back and across the diagonals, you may have a system that is "working as engineered", but not designed for the roads in your area. From what you have said my guess is you are going to again spend $$$ for another system and STILL bottom out.

Where we live a really dropped system would never work- period. The streets/roads are too rough, and you need more clearance for snow. And I get a kick out of mechanics talking about all the damaged oil-pans/suspension arms/tranney pans due to cars "dragging" too low. Maybe you need to rethink the design of what you are doing, not the hardware. Wrenchy