im a little stumped.
94cx hatch.
y7 block with d15b vtec head.

got the car cheap.. since it doesnt start. figured it was an easy fix.. not so easy.

it now has the correct dizzy and the right firing order
(1 towards firewall, 2 on bottom, 3 on top, 4 toward radiator)

p28 ecu.

the fuel injector wires were switched.. put them back in the right order.

same compression in all cylinders. 130 without wot throttle.

plugs get covered in fuel fast. but i manually tested for spark.. plug against block.

timing is on.

40psi fuel pressure. new gas.

the thing is.. i got it to start (idled like complete a$$) but it started, and that was before i noticed 3 and 4 injectors plugs were switched. now it doesnt even try to start. just cranks away.

only codes are for vtec and o2, sense neither are hooked up. should still start tho.

im gonna try another ecu tomorrow and hope thats it but.. i doubt it.


wtf!! any ideas??

 

Not having the o2 sensor plugged in and wired will cause it to run rich from my experience. Try wiring that into the ecu as well as the knock sensor and make sure vtec is also wired. If that doesnt work.... let me know the results...

 

none of those would cause it not to run. it'll run with the o2 not plugged in....just rich like he said. obd1 = no knock sensor. vtec not wired wouldn't determine whether it would run or not.

are you positive you have the injectors wired correctly? if the ecu was fried, it wouldn't have started the first time, so the ecu should be good. injectors being mixed is the only thing i could imagine it being.

 

Engine Cranks But
Won't Start
intermittently cranks but won't start
can usually be corrected by opening the throttle while
cranking.
If the engine does not start within 15 seconds, or
starts but stalls right away, [turn the ignition key to the
START position for 15 seconds] with the accelerator
pedal pressed half-way down. If the engine still does not
start, press the accelerator pedal all the way down and
hold it there while starting in order to clear flooding.

I hope this will help

 

i tried putting the injector wires back how they were and that didnt help. there right.

and i will try opening the throttle tomorrow.. too late now. but wouldnt it atleast 'try' to start

 

up up up cuz im about to go work on it.

tested plug wires last night.. there in spec. im gonna test the tps too. waiting on a new ecu also.

 

are you sure the injectors are even working? they may have pressure but the pintle on the tip may be plugged up. or just not work at all

 

i have the same problem just on a 99 ek and ive tried everything so let me now whats up when ur done i just havent done my ecu

 

well my plugs r covered in fuel so im assuming they work

 

why don't you check the main relay...it control both the fuel and spark...it very common that thing goes out...its on the driver side under the hood latch...the color of it is grey....

 

ok. can it be bad even tho im getting fuel and spark tho? ill still check it anyway

 

well it happen to me...i though it would be my dist. but it wasn't it came out to be that main relay...if that doesn't work try checking you harness to your ecu to see if there any wire that lose...

 

anything else? wires to my ecu look fine. cant be the main relay. has spark, and plugs r getting fuel

 

well shitskies....if you're getting fuel/spark, the main relay is good...as well as the pump/distributor. you have spark, and it's impossible for the rotor to be on backwards...the firing order is correct as well.

i'm stumped....let me know if the ecu fixes it.

 

man! people arent supposed to be as stumped as i am.. someone is supposed to come on and so 'oh its just your kfdghgiufhg' then i say o ok that fixed it

 

any idea's?????

 

COME ON. BEFORE IT GETS DARK AND EVEN COLDER. oops caps is on

 

"cries to self"

 

check all your ground wires. make sure they are tight. take them off and make sure they have good connection. tranny, valve cover, water pump housing, ect... lemme kno how it goes

 

already did, they'r all good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecSIrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

same compression in all cylinders. 130 without wot throttle.

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do another compression test. this time with wot

 

ehh i have to borrow it again.
compression is fine

 

you sure? its supposed to be done with wot. then do a leak down. are you sure your timing is good? how did you check?

 

ya i know. but i assumed since all cylinders were the same then it was fine

 

i put cyl1 at tdc and set the cam gear accordingly