Would a 66mm tb be to big for a n/a b16 with just bolt ons? any suggestions?

 

how much HP are you looking t push? My buddies got an 11.5:1 compression b16 and hes running stock TB

 

with just bolt ons its a waste of money..it is not really going to do anything but if your getting a good deal on it and plan on doing some serious work to you motor.... get it

 

Unless you're boosting a lot using a big *** intake manifold, it's a waste of money to change from stock.

 

I don't know what else I will be doing at this point. Im putting down about 165whp. I may do a turbo kit next summer if I have the cash but Im not sure. I was also looking at getting a s2 intake manafold. I just want something to give me some more power for now until I get some more cash. I want something bolt on and easy to install with out tuning.
How much hp do you guys think a 66mm tb and s2 intake mani would give? If you have any other suggestion for easy mods let me know. I already have I/H/E and hi flo cat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brent_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know what else I will be doing at this point. Im putting down about 165whp. ......</TD></TR></TABLE>

On a stock B16?

 

with I/H/E, you'd be at like 140WHP, maybe..

 

fine what ever but its still to slow for me. What other easy mods can I do? I was told like 135-140 whp stock.

 

They are 160 to the crank stock. So 130-140whp seems about right. You might be in the 150whp range. Only way to know for sure is to dyno it though.

 

I really want to do a turbo but no matter what I do It comes out to being over $4k. what other easy mods can I do?

 

what do you want out of your car and how much is your budget?

 

$500 or less and has to be something that doesn't require tuning. I already have i/h/e and hi flo cat and I purchased a act clutch and streetlyte flywheel and its on it way.

 

160whp on the magic dyno.

Stock throttle body will suffice until you start doing serious internal work or boost it.

 

do u have any suggestions for easy mods?

 

head work would be more beneficial. you're going to lose velocity by making everything bigger. i don't see why you're wasting money going N/A when you plan to turbo. mostly everything you do for the N/A build will be of no use when you turbo. bigger isn't always better. switching to a bigger TB and manifold now may give you power or it may drop power. but it will help when you turbo.

 

Like I said im not completely sure if I will be able to do a turbo. For one it would be waste of money if I did turbo and it blew my motor. and I got a tuning estimate and it was around $1200 just for tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brent_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do u have any suggestions for easy mods? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Save your money. There is no "easy" mod which nets any real gains.

Sure you could piddle away $200 here, $100 there, another $500 there.

Soon enough, you'd have spent enough money to get a nice turbo kit or something.

You have the smallest displacement DOHC in the lineup of "sport" motors. There's nothing short of a turbo that's going to be worthwhile or cost effective. If you want an n/a build, buy a b18c5, b20, h22, or k20.

Making 190-200+ whp on a naturally aspirated b16 is unheard of without doing some serious internal work and raising the compression.

Bottom line, save for a turbo, or a bigger engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brent_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like I said im not completely sure if I will be able to do a turbo. For one it would be waste of money if I did turbo and it blew my motor. and I got a tuning estimate and it was around $1200 just for tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF! thats a crazy tuning estimate. it shouldn't cost that much most shop dyno tune and charge by the hour it should be around 160-260 for an hour which should be enough time to get it done if you have all the right components.

 

Just get a skunk2 intake manifold and a 64mm throttle body. Or you can get an ITR/CTR intake manifold with a ITR/CTR throttle body(62mm). Which ever you perfer.

 

With a bolt-on-only B16A a larger throttle body is more beneficial to throttle response than it is to horsepower. If you asked me (a guy who leans strongly towards natural aspiration), I would get a throttle body between 2 and 4 mm oversized just for the drivability aspect of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brent_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$500 or less and has to be something that doesn't require tuning. I already have i/h/e and hi flo cat and I purchased a act clutch and streetlyte flywheel and its on it way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry dude but any big performance part you change from here on out, you will need to tune to get the maximum performance outta it. i'd say switch out the block fro something bigger like gsr, LS or b20. just from doing that alone you will see a difference

 

Wow, when did we start tuning cars with bolt ons?

What's the world coming to.

 

My last all motor car made 207 at the wheels and ran 12.40's on motor in a full interior Eh. Stock 2000si throttle body.

Going bigger at the level you are with a stock B16 will actually cost you power most likely due to the loss in velocity and will hurt throttle response.