what type of methods did u guys use to hook up the VTEC?? im using the 90 crx si intake manifold, computer and distributor...the car runs fine but i wanna hook up the vtec and was wondering how people went about doing this?? thanks

 

vtec controller (v-afc, fields, etc..)
i used to use a rpm switch (msd)
you can also use a shift light or whatever
everything will work fine, the problem is fuel compensation for vtec wont be there, except maybe with the afc

 

Ran a p28 ecu, converted to OBD-I and added wires for vtec on my home made converter harness

 

i ran the pm6 ecu, and a msd switch, and i ran faster than most...it was totaly stock, and ran a 15.0 with just the swap...

 

No answer here... Just a few questions! Which v-tec head are you using? Z6, or Y8? Is it a mini-me, or a full swap? Has anybody tried a Zdyne one-wire conversion ECU for the vtec and the proper fuel/timing maps?

 

Get a summit rpm switch with a relay and hook up vtec, get an B&M command flow and run a higher fuel pressure and you will love it.

 

Hmm. That's as fast as a B18a/b swap... are you SURE it was totally stock??

 

totaly stock...14.8 with i/h/e...just a strong motor i guess

 

my 1.5L non vtec is just as fast as superhatchs b18b. im modded of course

 

i have an extra shift light lying around somewhere....but how do u hook up the shift light to make the vtec work???

 

i believe the shift light concept is actually getting the signal from the tach and setting the shift point where you would like vtec to activate.

 

by far the Apexi VAFC is the best option... It works as a piggy back fuel computer AND give PERFECT vtec activation ( with out the guessing ). Its easy to hook up and looks great. $255.00 on ebay.... Then again, you could go though the wiring madness of the msd rpm switch, and its not dead accurate, and unless you know about relays and wiring your going to get fustrated quickly... Heres and good question, do you even have the head yet ? ( I don't know about the shifter light thing, its logic SHOULD work, but it may not. Sounds to silly to even try.)

GOOD LUCK

 

get a Fields or any oder vtec controler....
in my case i am using a MSD RPM activated switch with a relay.... works good.. since u dont have the ECU fuel map i will tell ya to get a fuel pressure regulator and run the engine a little rich.. dont worry, ull be using that fuel on VTEC....
piece

 

Yeah, you could do that, but it was far cheaper to just run OBD-I, including the cost of a p28.

 

why not use the pr3 computer and run the wires for the vtec?
it plugs right in vtec and will activate. It will also supply the fuel when vtec opens?

 

I think the Pr3 would make the sohc run way too rich all the time. I think it'll fail emssions (if that's a concern) and just run like crap.

 

Hey, how did you wire up the p28 ecu? And what exactly is your setup?

I'm just wondering cuz I'm going for the mini-me. Gonna use a Y8 head, and Y8 intake manifold...

 

My setup? I'm running a D16Y8 engine, Intake manifold, throttle body, injectors, p28 ecu. I converted the whole car to OBD-I, and I even managed to use the stock D16Y8 throttle cable by flipping it upside down

 

How will I know my VTEC activates? My car runs fine, no codes, oil is good. Doesn't feel any difference when it's supposed to be activated. I have a D15B Sohc Vtec and using an MSD RPM switch.

 

here we go again with OBD-1 is better the V-AFC vice versa story..

 

You won't feel VTEC hit on a SOHC motor

 

bullshit you wont. if you have vtec on any sort of switch (like i do) and you DONT engage it, the cam falls dead on its face around 5 grand. the smaller lobes dont make power up top. if you do a vtec pull, then not engage it on the second pull, it doesnt have any of the top end it normally does

if you dont believe me, ask RTErnie, he's driven my car, and said "damn, you can feel vtec on a single cam in a light car"

i have a 93 zc vtec in my 90 civic si, and you can hear/feel vtec engage

 

i second that
my car when its gutted , it does pull....
even u can feel it while heavy load.....

 

Both a P28 and a VAFC work good. I'm running a P28 and love it, but I'm not going to argue that its better than a VAFC (altough i think it is). The VAFC is nice because you and tune it on a dyno.

Here is a before and after of a a6/y8 mini-me after being tuned with a VAFC. It was using a PG7 as well.

Here is my a6 block/z6 head and y8 stock cam with a p28, untuned except for chaning the cam time. The best result were actually at stock.


More Dyno charts here,
http://www.norcalcrx.org/dyno/

 

Oh, I also tested the ignition timing and with both the PG7 and P28. Any ignition advance actually hurt power on both motors. Which is the opposite of what you see on a d16a6, b16, or b18.