Need Help : Hatch Wont Start : Fuel Related ( I think )
I cant get my hatch to start
Stock ECU with Crome Basemap by Xenocron
New RC SL4-750 injectors
New Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
AEM regulator (on rail)
i am getting spark
motor is turning over
fuel pressure at the rail is 45 PSI
fuel comes out the return line if i pull it off the regulator
when i take out an injector there is only fuel on the rail side of the injector
voltage to the injectors is 12V
tried two different main relays
tried both chips that came with the ecu
Ideas ?
TIA
Modified by LaXcAt at 11:49 AM 12/9/2007
Stock ECU with Crome Basemap by Xenocron
New RC SL4-750 injectors
New Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
AEM regulator (on rail)
i am getting spark
motor is turning over
fuel pressure at the rail is 45 PSI
fuel comes out the return line if i pull it off the regulator
when i take out an injector there is only fuel on the rail side of the injector
voltage to the injectors is 12V
tried two different main relays
tried both chips that came with the ecu
Ideas ?
TIA
Modified by LaXcAt at 11:49 AM 12/9/2007
need to check your trigger to the injectors, their gound switched so you will always have 12v, but may not get a signal to fire. easiest way is to get a noid light from autozone to check signal from ecu.
i think any noid light will work aslong as its in the votage range of the injector.
Are the chips blanks?Try a stock ECU and stock injectors.
Check ur cam timing and make sure ur ign. timing is synced (once its running)
Are the chips blanks?Try a stock ECU and stock injectors.
Check ur cam timing and make sure ur ign. timing is synced (once its running)
you have to use the noid light for that ohm range, sl4's are high impedence 12-16 ohms. the kit will work. just find the light that fits the pins correctly you can also measure the noids to see each's ohms.
r u running a resistor box?
is the connection at the engine harness on the driver side plugged in all the way
any broken wires or cut wires at that connector (the 8 wire connector with all yellow (black strip) wires ) with a connector on the end that s flat(ending) that connectors all together
hope this helps
dan
is the connection at the engine harness on the driver side plugged in all the way
any broken wires or cut wires at that connector (the 8 wire connector with all yellow (black strip) wires ) with a connector on the end that s flat(ending) that connectors all together
hope this helps
dan
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I tested with the noid light, the noid light flashed for all injectors (so they are getting a signal from the ECU)...what should i try next?
i you have spark and fuel, check your timming and make sure you didn't foul the plugs so bad it won't start(flooded). see noid lights are your friend
did you pull out the spark plugs to see if their wet with fuel after cranking? if you have pulse to the injectors and fuel pressure to them they should be firing. did you try holding the thottle open slightly will cranking? you may need to verify good compression. what was done to the motor from when it ran, till now.
i pulled a plug out, its dry, i doubled check timing again , still not starting....still no gas out of the injector...
Xenocron is going to send me a new chip so maybe that will help
the motor is brand new, build ls/vtec....
Xenocron is going to send me a new chip so maybe that will help
the motor is brand new, build ls/vtec....
well i hope when you get the new chip everything is ok. you might just want to check over any grounds for loose or bad connection.
no, thats it for the motor side of grounds. r u sure your not running a resister box, cause the sl4's are high ohm's, unless your 96-00. what year hatch is this?
new chip still not working....no CEL while cranking
i just measured the resistance of the RC's and the stock injectors the resistance is the same....
i just measured the resistance of the RC's and the stock injectors the resistance is the same....
i did the test with the battery, the injector sprays when i connect it directly to a battery. what sort of wiring issue would cause that, what should i look at.
http://www.robietherobot.com/s...e.htm
Regarding the injectors, it looks like your hatch has saturated injectors, which have a higher impedence. Most larger injectors use peak and hold and have a low impedence, which means you will fry your ecu if you aren't using a resistor box or high impedence injectors
Also, does your map compensate for the larger injectors? If that is a stock map, it isn't going to run well, if at all.
Regarding the injectors, it looks like your hatch has saturated injectors, which have a higher impedence. Most larger injectors use peak and hold and have a low impedence, which means you will fry your ecu if you aren't using a resistor box or high impedence injectors
Also, does your map compensate for the larger injectors? If that is a stock map, it isn't going to run well, if at all.



