8 valves?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks thats the only one beside hfs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only two you'll find in the US that will work are the D15B6 and the D15B8 heads. All other compatible USDM D-series heads are 16-valve.
The only two you'll find in the US that will work are the D15B6 and the D15B8 heads. All other compatible USDM D-series heads are 16-valve.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you replace an HF head with a junk yard HF head? Why not just spend 300$ and buy a D16A6 and have a great improovement in power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe because some people prefer getting 55mpg over dropping their quarter mile time from 18 to 17 seconds?
Maybe because some people prefer getting 55mpg over dropping their quarter mile time from 18 to 17 seconds?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe because some people prefer getting 55mpg over dropping their quarter mile time from 18 to 17 seconds?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's fine. Just use the HF manifold and exhaust and tranny and still achieve awesome gas mileage. I'm just saying if he going to buy a junkyard head he might aswell buy another engine all together that would probably be in better shape.
Oh and an Si engine can easily make a crx run some mid to low 15s.
Maybe because some people prefer getting 55mpg over dropping their quarter mile time from 18 to 17 seconds?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's fine. Just use the HF manifold and exhaust and tranny and still achieve awesome gas mileage. I'm just saying if he going to buy a junkyard head he might aswell buy another engine all together that would probably be in better shape.
Oh and an Si engine can easily make a crx run some mid to low 15s.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh and an Si engine can easily make a crx run some mid to low 15s.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Greased lightning.
Oh and an Si engine can easily make a crx run some mid to low 15s.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Greased lightning.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's fine. Just use the HF manifold and exhaust and tranny and still achieve awesome gas mileage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then it's going to be just as slow as an HF without the full fuel economy benefit, so what's the point? The Si engine doesn't even get on the cam until 3000 RPM or so. The HF engine is optimized to make its torque down low.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh and an Si engine can easily make a crx run some mid to low 15s.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, but not with an HF transmission. And it's not going to get 55mpg either . . .
Then it's going to be just as slow as an HF without the full fuel economy benefit, so what's the point? The Si engine doesn't even get on the cam until 3000 RPM or so. The HF engine is optimized to make its torque down low.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh and an Si engine can easily make a crx run some mid to low 15s.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, but not with an HF transmission. And it's not going to get 55mpg either . . .
whoa!...i found a d15b8 complete motor with a built bottom end +:
sensors, obd1 engine and dash harness
tranny
no clutch.
my NEW*** question is, just to swap the head would be:
1. valve cover bolts
2. distributor bolts
3. timing belt
4. exhaust bolts (downpipe/cat)
5. intake bolts (minus the removed im to block bracket)
6. headbolts
are there sensors to be replaced to keep the stock obd0 harness?
sensors, obd1 engine and dash harness
tranny
no clutch.
my NEW*** question is, just to swap the head would be:
1. valve cover bolts
2. distributor bolts
3. timing belt
4. exhaust bolts (downpipe/cat)
5. intake bolts (minus the removed im to block bracket)
6. headbolts
are there sensors to be replaced to keep the stock obd0 harness?
would swapping out everything but the tranny effect gas mileage? they claim the pistons are unknown but high compression aftermarket ones....
Modified by defnu at 10:02 PM 12/8/2007
Modified by defnu at 10:02 PM 12/8/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K2e2vin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D15B8 is also a 8-valve motor IIRC. It's in the 92-95 CX's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But you don't want to use this head on an HF. The HF distributer won't mount up correctly. As for finding HF heads, I see PLENTY of HFs at the Pick-And-Pulls here in the Sacramento area.
But you don't want to use this head on an HF. The HF distributer won't mount up correctly. As for finding HF heads, I see PLENTY of HFs at the Pick-And-Pulls here in the Sacramento area.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K2e2vin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can use the CX distributor and rewire the connector
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He can do this but he will be throwing code 4. The crank gear on the inside has 24 teeth and the obd0 has 18.
</TD></TR></TABLE>He can do this but he will be throwing code 4. The crank gear on the inside has 24 teeth and the obd0 has 18.
??what?? thats not good. i was suppose to go pick it up today! there is no way to interchange the distributor or any part? for it to work?
sorry for the multiple questions.
sorry for the multiple questions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">??what?? thats not good. i was suppose to go pick it up today! there is no way to interchange the distributor or any part? for it to work?
sorry for the multiple questions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just make it work. I seen no harm in trimming the ears of the HF dizzy until you get it working fine. I've seen plenty of people do it. Sure, it's not pretty, sure it might be ghetto, but whatever, it gets it working.
If you would like, I sell ODB0 to OBD1 conversion harness for cheaper then rywire.
sorry for the multiple questions.</TD></TR></TABLE>Just make it work. I seen no harm in trimming the ears of the HF dizzy until you get it working fine. I've seen plenty of people do it. Sure, it's not pretty, sure it might be ghetto, but whatever, it gets it working.
If you would like, I sell ODB0 to OBD1 conversion harness for cheaper then rywire.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i need to keep the stock dizzy and ecu to obd0 though....i'm just going to cut the dizzy...thats alright though right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Line it up first. I've had obd1 dizzys bolt right up to my obd0 head, so it should work vice versa. Try it before you cut, you might be surprised.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Line it up first. I've had obd1 dizzys bolt right up to my obd0 head, so it should work vice versa. Try it before you cut, you might be surprised.
Rather than dealing with all this halfass distributer BS, why not just get the right head for the motor? Last time I checked the Rancho Cordova Pick-And-Pull, there were two HFs (that was a couple of weeks ago, maybe I could go there again and check). If you can't find anything where you live, it can't be THAT long of a drive up here.
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