Need to be faster. Any ideas?
current mods to motor.
2003 rsx typeS . . . . . Injen cai. Apexi N1 cb. Megan testpipe. Hondata K-pro. Itr throttle body.
Transmission - Exedy stage 1 w/ 8lb flywheel.
My goal is to hit mid to low 13's n/a. On my setup now my best time was 13.9 @ 103.
Tryin not to break the bank either
2003 rsx typeS . . . . . Injen cai. Apexi N1 cb. Megan testpipe. Hondata K-pro. Itr throttle body.
Transmission - Exedy stage 1 w/ 8lb flywheel.
My goal is to hit mid to low 13's n/a. On my setup now my best time was 13.9 @ 103.
Tryin not to break the bank either
You could get new camshatfs, those usually add pretty good horsepower, even though your N/A.
http://www.skunk2.com/mm5/merc...-0220
http://www.skunk2.com/mm5/merc...-0220
RBC = civic si intake manifold that along with Buddy club or IPS cams, valvespring, retainers, 3" exhaust, drag radials, and a good tune should put you in the mid 13s. He lmk if you need an installer.
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if you truely wanna keep it N/A i would suggest a Toda or DC sport race header and TWM or Toda ITBs (individual throttle bodies) and aset of IPS or Toda cams. then go to Hondata tuner and dyno tune all the mods to get the most reliable amount of power you can. also invest in a set of drag radials like the BFGs cuz we all know the weak link in the RSX out of the box is its stock tires and lack of an LSD (limited slip differential)
if that blows the budget, find a set of ITBs from a sport bike and have a custom maniflod made for the ITBs. mount your TPS sensor, map sensor and run a Hondata Thermotech intake gasket heat shield and loop your factory throttle body coolant lines together in a bypass. any reputable shop that can weld aluminum should be able to fab up the manifold for ya.
if that blows the budget, find a set of ITBs from a sport bike and have a custom maniflod made for the ITBs. mount your TPS sensor, map sensor and run a Hondata Thermotech intake gasket heat shield and loop your factory throttle body coolant lines together in a bypass. any reputable shop that can weld aluminum should be able to fab up the manifold for ya.
I wouldnt bother with ITBs with a stock bottom and non port and polished head. Gains are about the same as a RBC on a stockish motor. If you want a bigger gain than the RBC get a ported RBC from Import builders but it wont be astronomical on a stockish motor.
Nitrous
Cams, headers, and maybe even a good fly wheel will allow your car to rev a more freely. Maybe the limited slip is a good idea. You can also get to low 13s not only by adding horsepower but also shaving time off with such things like shifting and fly wheel. Dont get into the whole nitrous thing.
Oh after all that I didnt see that you have a fly wheel lol. well then just focus on cams, headers. Im suprised if you have all that you dont have headers. but nice set up though.
Modified by DC54LIFE at 7:31 PM 12/6/2007
Cams, headers, and maybe even a good fly wheel will allow your car to rev a more freely. Maybe the limited slip is a good idea. You can also get to low 13s not only by adding horsepower but also shaving time off with such things like shifting and fly wheel. Dont get into the whole nitrous thing.
Oh after all that I didnt see that you have a fly wheel lol. well then just focus on cams, headers. Im suprised if you have all that you dont have headers. but nice set up though.
Modified by DC54LIFE at 7:31 PM 12/6/2007
I wanna get the dc header but ive always been debating it cause when yu look at it, it looks like its gunna be such a pain to install. Anyone do the install? Looks like you may need to replace the front sway bar?
RBC IM, Hondata IM Gasket, Race Headers (whatever brand floats your boat), LSD (DC5-R lsd if you don't want to go with big boy LSD like quiafe) and get a proper tune i guarantee mid 13's. Remember car is not light and car is not insanely heavy 2750-2800lbs + <insert your weight here> = a lot of weight. Hopefully you have no subs or anything else that would weigh the car down.
I'll say the LSD will help as will the suspension tuning. If 13s are your goal, its not that far off. Cams should put you in the relm as would an intake manifold, above that I would say a cylinder head and some sort of stand alone engine management...... internal motor mods would be next......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greasemonkey75 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll say the LSD will help as will the suspension tuning. If 13s are your goal, its not that far off. Cams should put you in the relm as would an intake manifold, above that I would say a cylinder head and some sort of stand alone engine management...... internal motor mods would be next......</TD></TR></TABLE>
He has Kpro but stay away from the dc and get something better like Buddy club, Toda, SSR etc..
He has Kpro but stay away from the dc and get something better like Buddy club, Toda, SSR etc..
JR is a great header, but others have dyno'd beter. the DC Sport header is a simple install, i used to have one before the turbo and loved it. im not sure if you have to replace the sway bar or not because i had already installed a Progress 27mm front sway bar before the header. the Progress clears it no problem.
and as far as ITBs go, im still a believer in them. TWM ITBs have shown as much as 30whp gain on a stock motor (K20A2). and as far as port-n-polishing the head its not necesary, but can help a little. the factory head design is pretty good as is. i would just clean it up a little by removing the casting marks and maybe port matching the throtle body and intake.
i am curently building an autocross / time attack naturally aspirated K20A2 powered 2004 RSX-S and have a set of TWM ITBs paired with a Burns stainless race header, 12.8:1 forged pistons, etc...
and as far as ITBs go, im still a believer in them. TWM ITBs have shown as much as 30whp gain on a stock motor (K20A2). and as far as port-n-polishing the head its not necesary, but can help a little. the factory head design is pretty good as is. i would just clean it up a little by removing the casting marks and maybe port matching the throtle body and intake.
i am curently building an autocross / time attack naturally aspirated K20A2 powered 2004 RSX-S and have a set of TWM ITBs paired with a Burns stainless race header, 12.8:1 forged pistons, etc...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02bluteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll need an aftermarket sway bar with the RH</TD></TR></TABLE>
uhh,....no..
not with DC..
u just unbolt 2 on each side.
sway your sway bar down.
fit the headers - finish installing
move the sway bar back up bolt it.
i installed 3 days ago
uhh,....no..
not with DC..
u just unbolt 2 on each side.
sway your sway bar down.
fit the headers - finish installing
move the sway bar back up bolt it.
i installed 3 days ago


