My EG sol build
yo car peeps im starting my Del Sol project and i thought i would share it with my fellow honda fans. let me know what u think im open to ideas. oh and one thing i have 9 months to do this starting jan 1 08
heres the plan...
full built D16z6 w/turbo 13psi
-Eagle rods
-Vitara Pistons 9:1 comp
-ARP internal bolts
-JGE SS valves
-JGE Ti retainers
-Skunk2 valve springs
-Stock block
-Port/Polish head
-CC match combustion chambers
-etc..
full suspension
-Tein basic
-Frt/Rear strut bars 50% done
-Frt/Rear sway bars (still working in what mm to use)
-Lower control arms (rear)
-H-brace
brake upgrade
-Wilwood Calip 4 piston frt
-11in Type-R 4-bolt rotors frt
-SS lines frt/rear
-ceramies frt/rear
lite interior/exterior mods
-short shifter
-jdm 1pc headlites
-frt lip
-full exhaust (thin wall steel for weight)
-weight reduction (where possible)
drive line mods
-stage 3 clutch
-alum flywheel
-experment with equal size axles
-lsd
-harden gears (or upgrade)
management
-neptune RTP
-Vfac (for fine tuning in different alt)
there is other detail parts but u get the idea!!
Modified by racingrevolution07 at 8:51 PM 12/5/2007
Modified by racingrevolution07 at 8:51 PM 12/5/2007
Modified by racingrevolution07 at 8:53 PM 12/5/2007
heres the plan...
full built D16z6 w/turbo 13psi
-Eagle rods
-Vitara Pistons 9:1 comp
-ARP internal bolts
-JGE SS valves
-JGE Ti retainers
-Skunk2 valve springs
-Stock block
-Port/Polish head
-CC match combustion chambers
-etc..
full suspension
-Tein basic
-Frt/Rear strut bars 50% done
-Frt/Rear sway bars (still working in what mm to use)
-Lower control arms (rear)
-H-brace
brake upgrade
-Wilwood Calip 4 piston frt
-11in Type-R 4-bolt rotors frt
-SS lines frt/rear
-ceramies frt/rear
lite interior/exterior mods
-short shifter
-jdm 1pc headlites
-frt lip
-full exhaust (thin wall steel for weight)
-weight reduction (where possible)
drive line mods
-stage 3 clutch
-alum flywheel
-experment with equal size axles
-lsd
-harden gears (or upgrade)
management
-neptune RTP
-Vfac (for fine tuning in different alt)
there is other detail parts but u get the idea!!
Modified by racingrevolution07 at 8:51 PM 12/5/2007
Modified by racingrevolution07 at 8:51 PM 12/5/2007
Modified by racingrevolution07 at 8:53 PM 12/5/2007
here are the new rear rotors drilled & installed
rotors fresh of the press
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2...tream/
installed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2...tream/
im thinking of buying the fastbrakes kit for the rear but it might be over kill. it uses a 11.4in rotor w/2 piston calip!!!!!
Modified by racingrevolution07 at 5:27 PM 12/5/2007
rotors fresh of the press
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2...tream/
installed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2...tream/
im thinking of buying the fastbrakes kit for the rear but it might be over kill. it uses a 11.4in rotor w/2 piston calip!!!!!
Modified by racingrevolution07 at 5:27 PM 12/5/2007
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nice build. should be fast and fun. i liked everything until i read the tein basics as your coilovers.... :/. just not my fave but your car. very nice build on the motor and turbo tho.... im jealous.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racingrevolution07 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx. on the suspension im also looking @ the buddy club N+ there a bill more </TD></TR></TABLE>
I would definately go with the buddy club... the tein basics are verrrry mediocher at best and koni yellows w/ goos springs would be better. the buddy clubs are nice and would be my choice. thats my .02. my buddys basics also just blew after 1 night of hard driving.
I would definately go with the buddy club... the tein basics are verrrry mediocher at best and koni yellows w/ goos springs would be better. the buddy clubs are nice and would be my choice. thats my .02. my buddys basics also just blew after 1 night of hard driving.
looks ok to me, i'm sure your build plans will change slightly as the build progresses. For starters, i would NOT use the VAFC or SAFC for ANY type of tuning, you will not fine tune anything that Crome, Uberdata, AEM, Hondata etc... can't take care of.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by forcefedferio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks ok to me, i'm sure your build plans will change slightly as the build progresses. For starters, i would NOT use the VAFC or SAFC for ANY type of tuning, you will not fine tune anything that Crome, Uberdata, AEM, Hondata etc... can't take care of.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2. chipped p28 on chrome is unstoppable.
x2. chipped p28 on chrome is unstoppable.
on the tuning im using neptune its a sweet program and its real time programing. the vafc will be used with the neptune only when i travel to different places and i dont have my laptop.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egSLEEPER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would definately go with the buddy club... the tein basics are verrrry mediocher at best and koni yellows w/ goos springs would be better. the buddy clubs are nice and would be my choice. thats my .02. my buddys basics also just blew after 1 night of hard driving.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
kool thanx on the heads up.
I would definately go with the buddy club... the tein basics are verrrry mediocher at best and koni yellows w/ goos springs would be better. the buddy clubs are nice and would be my choice. thats my .02. my buddys basics also just blew after 1 night of hard driving.
</TD></TR></TABLE>kool thanx on the heads up.
First... Vitaras aren't going to get you 9:1 compression. In fact, they usually end up 8:1 or even under (like 7.8:1, depending). I mean you can certainly mill the head or deck the block, but then you get into problems like the timing belt jumping teeth. Keep that in mind.
Second, you have ARP internal bolts listed. If you're talking about mains, they don't make them for the D-series engines. Though, I'm told you can use H22's or something of the sort... But it's not worth it. Something about it ***** with your crank and/or girdle, and you don't want that. I don't know the exact details, but I've had two people try this and they both confirmed it fucked up one way or another. Just get some OEM mains from majestic, I think they end up around 60-70 dollars for all of them.
Second, you have ARP internal bolts listed. If you're talking about mains, they don't make them for the D-series engines. Though, I'm told you can use H22's or something of the sort... But it's not worth it. Something about it ***** with your crank and/or girdle, and you don't want that. I don't know the exact details, but I've had two people try this and they both confirmed it fucked up one way or another. Just get some OEM mains from majestic, I think they end up around 60-70 dollars for all of them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toroke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First... Vitaras aren't going to get you 9:1 compression. In fact, they usually end up 8:1 or even under (like 7.8:1, depending). I mean you can certainly mill the head or deck the block, but then you get into problems like the timing belt jumping teeth. Keep that in mind.
Second, you have ARP internal bolts listed. If you're talking about mains, they don't make them for the D-series engines. Though, I'm told you can use H22's or something of the sort... But it's not worth it. Something about it ***** with your crank and/or girdle, and you don't want that. I don't know the exact details, but I've had two people try this and they both confirmed it fucked up one way or another. Just get some OEM mains from majestic, I think they end up around 60-70 dollars for all of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on the compression ive crunched the numbers and ended up with 9.02:1 but actual, i wont know until ive finish the head and cc the chambers also im not sure of the margin on the new valves.
the arp bolts are just the head studs. i forgot the details on that one
Second, you have ARP internal bolts listed. If you're talking about mains, they don't make them for the D-series engines. Though, I'm told you can use H22's or something of the sort... But it's not worth it. Something about it ***** with your crank and/or girdle, and you don't want that. I don't know the exact details, but I've had two people try this and they both confirmed it fucked up one way or another. Just get some OEM mains from majestic, I think they end up around 60-70 dollars for all of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on the compression ive crunched the numbers and ended up with 9.02:1 but actual, i wont know until ive finish the head and cc the chambers also im not sure of the margin on the new valves.
the arp bolts are just the head studs. i forgot the details on that one



