I am going to the junkyard to pick at an EX and i want the rear disc set up.. so what should i be getting off it? I will probably upgrade to ss brakelines for front and rear, and get new hardlines.

I also want to convert the front to not hub over haha, so what should i do because i want the conversion for more braking power as well. I heard to get dual piston calipers.. or have bigger rotors.

Also, im going to get the nuespeed sport springs that lower about 1.7/1.8 inches. Should i replace my shocks as well, they are original with 130k on them, but they are not blown.. yet.

Also, while raping the EX, what do i need for the rear stablerizer?


:edit: i read both FAQ's about brakes, but didn't find a def. parts list for the rear and im confused about the front. I guess i could use all the CL parts to swap it, but what about more breakign power?

 

ohh i know people knowww this stuff.

 

well, when I stripped my EX the person I sold my rear brake swap too wanted everything from the rear knuckle out as well as the e-brake cables. He didn't want the trailing arms to save on shipping. But I've heard that by swapping the knuckle with the trailing arms is easier on labor, IDK. So take your pick.

If you are picking up the entire EX chassis, you could just drop the whole rear suspension and swap it over. Take the subframe and everything (subframe, lca's, trailing arms, knuckle, brakes, sway bar/endlinks/brackets, etc.). Just a thought.

for the fronts, I know the links in the FAQ give a parts list. It just depends on what you want to do. You can A) ROH with the same size rotor and use stock caliper B) ROH with a larger rotor and larger single piston caliper from the AV6 C) ROH with a larger rotor and dual piston Legend caliper.

Personally, I was thinking about doing the Rotor-Over-Hub with larger rotor and dual piston caliper. But instead of flipping the L caliper to the R side, I was going to do what I saw one other member here do. And thats keep the caliper on the correct side, meaning bleed valve facing down, to keep the small and larger piston in the originally intended position. This would require removing the caliper from the knuckle and flipping it over with the bleed valve on top and having it clamp down on a piece of wood or something when bleeding the brakes.

And yes, you should replace the struts at the same time. Doesn't make sense not to. You know those springs will eventually blow those struts and then you'll have to go through the process again, just replace them when putting the new springs in.

 

another thing to consider is that if you upgrade your front brakes to larger rotors and calipers you'll be effectively increasing your front brake torque quite a bit. throwing off the front/rear brake torque bias. you're going to want to run more aggressive pads with a stronger bite in the back to try to even it out. as far as what pad combination is going to work best, thats going to take some trial & error.

 

hmm. i don't really wanna go thru that hassle of bleeding the brakes like that, so i will try to find an accord v6. What about the first option.. what car would that be coming off of? the CL and just get new parts? Can i use my stock caliper if i do the CL one.. thats the one im thinking off, or maybe a larger front disc since i want to improve a bit for stopping.


With the suspension, i don't really want to lower too much, i just want better handling and a better look, but am i going to have to worry about camber and such if i'm dropped no more than 1.7/1.8? I might get the eibach prokit and some shocks (which would be best?). Is there anything else i should do to the suspension for better handling, assuming i get the EX rear stablerizer as well?

 

still confused