I noticed on my 99 civic SI theres really nowhere to attach a bracket for a traction bar like the integra has (2 bolts) Does anyone make a traction bar for this car and how are they bracing it OTHER than welding a bracket on? Is it possible to swap integra front LCA's onto the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoTeG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I noticed on my 99 civic SI theres really nowhere to attach a bracket for a traction bar like the integra has (2 bolts) Does anyone make a traction bar for this car and how are they bracing it OTHER than welding a bracket on? Is it possible to swap integra front LCA's onto the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure on Integra LCAs fitting, but non Si EK Civics should have the 2 piece LCAs instead, and should be identical in terms of functional shape. You'll probably also have to swap out either the entire front ARB, or at least the endlinks, to use a different LCA though.

 

up

 

You can use the non-Si '96-00 front lower control arms, but you will have to eliminate the Si front bar. That's okay though, because the Si bar sucks, and you get the opportunity to use the EX bar

Trade your arms and sway bar with some sucker who owns an EX and wants the Si bar.

Or, you could drill/weld/fabricate to attach the brackets to your arms.

 

I think some traction bars use a bracket on the lower shock fork bolt. But I think that design doesn't give enough clearance when the front wheels are turned to full lock.

It seems like I've seen at least one traction bar that used a bracket that bolts between the LCA's inner frame mounting bolt and the shock fork bolt, and then there is a mounting point for the traction bar in the center of that bracket. I have no idea who makes it (if anybody), though.

 

hmm interesting...anyone else?

 

My buddy is using Si LCA's and just had brackets custom-welded to the LCA's to locate the traction bar ends more inward. The bar he had originally attached to the lower shock fork bolts and he had nasty tire clearance problems just as I described.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2167047

 

hmm thanks...bump..if anyone knows if DC LCAs are interchangable

 

DC?? dont do it man.
save yourself the hassle...
get EX control arms. make sure they are not the cx/dx... those dont have sway bar endlink holes.
once you get the ex arms, you can now use a variety of sway bars... the 22mm ex bar is a direct fit obviously...then you have plenty of aftermarket options, which are either 24 or 25mm ( also i tried the 24mm gsr/type r bar, it fits, but it hangs way too low to the ground on an ek chassis.)
the SI bar however is the largest you will find available. i am using it on my EX arms because i built my own endlinks. i used a set of BLOX adjustable links, and a set of poly bushings made for ex bar endlinks. you have to do some re-arranging to the parts, but im sure you can figure it out if you are crafty enough. ohh and you will also need washers for the bushings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beav &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the SI bar however is the largest you will find available. i am using it on my EX arms because i built my own endlinks. i used a set of BLOX adjustable links, and a set of poly bushings made for ex bar endlinks. you have to do some re-arranging to the parts, but im sure you can figure it out if you are crafty enough. ohh and you will also need washers for the bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
From what I've seen and read, I believe you can use the Si bar on EX arms with Integra Type-R front sway bar end links. The ITR end links have one end made to fit the solid cast-style control arms, and the other end made to fit sway bars that take the ball joint-style links. I'm not 100% sure as I haven't tried it myself, but this seems to be the case.

However, I still recommend using the EX front bar over the Si bar.

 

The Z10 traction bars fit on an EM1, bolts right up. That's what I used on mine; it worked great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Z10 traction bars fit on an EM1, bolts right up. That's what I used on mine; it worked great.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Last time I read about Z10 bars, they did not have the correct geometry to prevent binding throughout the suspension's vertical range of motion. Have they revised the design for EM1's?

 

Any of the traction bars based on attaching a rod to a front crossmember are going to pull on the LCA with vertical motion, and the Z10 bars are going to be worse in that respect because they do attach farther out on the LCA, but I never had a problem with them binding on my EM1 at the drag strip or on road courses. I also had some relatively stiff springs (Skunk2 and GC over Koni Sports) and the stock EM1 sway bar is pretty thick, so my range of vertical motion was limited, maybe it would have been a problem otherwise.

The only binding problems I had were with my ES RTA bushings, which would bind under track conditions, although not on the street. I had the toe set to OEM specs, which may have also contributed to the binding issue, I've had people tell me that setting the rear toe to 0 helps significantly with that issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any of the traction bars based on attaching a rod to a front crossmember are going to pull on the LCA with vertical motion, and the Z10 bars are going to be worse in that respect because they do attach farther out on the LCA, but I never had a problem with them binding on my EM1 at the drag strip or on road courses. I also had some relatively stiff springs (Skunk2 and GC over Koni Sports) and the stock EM1 sway bar is pretty thick, so my range of vertical motion was limited, maybe it would have been a problem otherwise.

The only binding problems I had were with my ES RTA bushings, which would bind under track conditions, although not on the street. I had the toe set to OEM specs, which may have also contributed to the binding issue, I've had people tell me that setting the rear toe to 0 helps significantly with that issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The traction bars should not bind if the forward radius rod attachment is located directly in line with the inner LCA bolts. Think of a cone with a line drawn from the top point down to some point on the bottom circle. Move the line anywhere around the bottom circle of the cone, and the line itself will always stay the same length.

 

Never mind, that was retarded.