1994 prelude h22

Lowering springs were added, now the car shakes horrible under accelerations. It doesn't while coasting or breaking.

All the axels boots are fine, and doesn't click around turns.
Im running stock struts.
All bolts are tight, and all the lugs on tight aswell.
Motor mounts are tight and in good condition.

The car started the Very second after i installed the springs.

please help. Under accelerations the pass wheel feels like its going to brake off.

The issue feels like the front passengerside. While changing the springs. i had pulled the drivers side axel out and had to take off boot to get it back into its correct possition.

Thanks

 

you need an alignment.

could be not tight enough axle bolt too.


Modified by verycleanhatch at 1:48 PM 12/3/2007

 

the alignment does need to be done. but it would shake when not accelering on that note. and doesnt. i never removed the pass axel bolt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by verycleanhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need an alignment.

could be not tight enough axle bolt too.


Modified by verycleanhatch at 1:48 PM 12/3/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

do both and see how things come out, alignment could be a problem to but i'd bet you dont have the axle on tight. Make sure to check both sides where the axle meets the tranny and hub. GL bro

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by playaforiife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't bump until you go and double check your work.

Make sure all bolts that you touched are tight, the wheels are centered on the hubs, and that the axle joints are all set properly (i.e. the inner CVs aren't partially extended out of position).

 

I'm willing to bet two pennies that one or both of your inner CV axle joints is fudged... most likely the one that you messed with.

Bad inner CV joints cause nasty vibrations during acceleration only (under load, throttle open), but not when the throttle is closed during braking or coasting.

 

I Checked everyting that i touched. All is tight.

The axels worked fine before the springs, no click, wobble, or shake.

I replaced the drivers side axel since i took it apart. No fix, the car still shakes bad! i orderd a pass side and will get it today. so well see.

Does lowering your car put more stress on axels? because there were no issues with them atall before the spring install?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by playaforiife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does lowering your car put more stress on axels? because there were no issues with them atall before the spring install?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it does not, contrary to popular belief, unless perhaps your car was EXTREMELY slammed, and I mean to the point where you cut holes in the shock towers so the upper control arms can poke through so you can get the car to go even lower.

So what did you replace your axle with? A rebuilt unit? I'm willing to bet the one you got was crap.

Back around 2004 I replaced both of my original OEM axles which had over 160K miles on them because both inner boots were torn. There were no vibrations or clicking noises or anything before I touched the axles.

After I replaced the axles with rebuilt axles from NAPA, BAM! I had MASSIVE vibrations with the throttle open at all speeds.

I ended up changing both axles 3 more times within a 3-4 month period, and finally got a set that did not vibrate.

 

i bought new ones from shucks. That way they would work correctly

 

took out passengerside axel and replaced with the new one. The old one moved freely and nothing was wrong with it. GOSH!!!! i cant figure this out its driving me nuts.

Can the top hats for the struts go on wrong? or does anyway they can go on work? Only other thing i can think of..

Oh also there is a support bar on both sides of the car thats held on by a nut and there are a few rubber bushings on both sides. Same side as the tie rod ends. None the less, when i took the springs i noticed that one side was missing its nut and bushings. Was not attatched at all. I never removed this so i dont know when it may have fallen off. Could this cause a real violent shake?'

Is it possiable that it was unnoticable unill i lowered the car?

I cant fix this, arg. driving me nuts

 

whoa, sounds like one side of your front sway bar is disconnected... that could very well make some nasty noises if the other side is still connected.

 

So would it be better to disconnect the otherside for the time being. Till i get a new nut and bushings?

 

I replaced the other axle and now it drives nicely. Just small shake from a mix of:
If course being on lowering springs
And also an alignment is needed.

So our future readers can see under a search.

There was a dangerous shake from the front end. Only under acceleration or any load on the axles.

The problem was the pass Axel. The axles were fine never clicked even around corners, popped, shaked, wiggled, or anything. But suddenly caused a shake.

The boots were perfect, and under inspection the axles seemed perfect.

With the symptoms, i replaced the axles just under hunch, and it was the culprit.

Axel's can be bad and not show any signs..

Thanks for all the comments guys/gals. Your all a huge help, with this conflict, past conflicts, and I'm sure many future ones.

Eric

 

Tie rods or wheel bearing could be shot.. Check those if theres any play.. Jack the car up and move the front tire left to right to check if it wobbles if it does thats your tie rod.. Now move your tire up and down and if theres play there your wheel bearings are shot. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyDelSol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tie rods or wheel bearing could be shot.. Check those if theres any play.. Jack the car up and move the front tire left to right to check if it wobbles if it does thats your tie rod.. Now move your tire up and down and if theres play there your wheel bearings are shot. Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He already said it was the axle.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by playaforiife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I replaced the other axle and now it drives nicely. Just small shake from a mix of:
If course being on lowering springs
And also an alignment is needed.

So our future readers can see under a search.

There was a dangerous shake from the front end. Only under acceleration or any load on the axles.

The problem was the pass Axel. The axles were fine never clicked even around corners, popped, shaked, wiggled, or anything. But suddenly caused a shake.

The boots were perfect, and under inspection the axles seemed perfect.

With the symptoms, i replaced the axles just under hunch, and it was the culprit.

Axel's can be bad and not show any signs..

Thanks for all the comments guys/gals. Your all a huge help, with this conflict, past conflicts, and I'm sure many future ones.

Eric</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I've stated that many times in other threads. The axles I put on my car were rebuilts, fresh out of the box and they made nasty vibrations under load. The problem is crappy inner CV joints used on the rebuilds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He already said it was the axle.</TD></TR></TABLE> ohh lol, sorry i must of misread it.

 

bummp thats crazy