Well guys I got this thing on the other night. Once I pulled the front crossmember off it went right in, with the crossmember out. Ground clearence did look too bad either. However I did have to take alot more out of that crossmember to make it clear the header. I just wanted to let everyone know that you have to either beat the **** out of this thing to bend it back. Or like i did, notch it and then beat it the spots that are really close or rubbing. I just wanted to let ppl know it wasnt as easy as people said and you have to take more out than I thought I was going to have to. Also the center beam that runs from the rear crossmember to the front crossmember didnt fit. Its number one in the diagram.

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...+BEAM

Im not sure if by taking that out its going to dramaticly affect things. If anyone has let me know. When you guys are running traction bars you take it out correct ? Also Where the hell are you putting your exhaust hanger now because the hanger is located on that ?

And I can verify this because I met another guy with a 4th gen with an F20B yesterday who installed his the other night also and he said he took out even more than I did to make it fit. I will take some pics if you guys want them.


Modified by lude98SH at 7:57 AM 12/2/2007


Modified by lude98SH at 8:00 AM 12/2/2007

 

I've got the ESP trac bar and I want to use the Camp 1320. I don't want to take my bar out. I'm hopin that its small enough for the header to pass thru. I also want my front torque mount to fit in there too.

Hey Lude98SH. Can you send me some really close pictures of your header in the engine? Like from up-top and below so I can gauge whether or not I can accomplish it?!

Thanks bud!

(schranzKT@gmail.com)

 

well if your running the traction bar you cant run the front mount anyway, unless your talking about that bar thing they sell that mounts where the old mount was.

O yea and to install mine i dropped the crossmember out slide the header under the car sideways and stood it up. Since its one piece its hard to get it under there any other way unless you have a lift. Ill post some pics though.

 

yeah I've got the front torque mount. I was talking to Tom about him making a much higher quality camp header (more welds, perfect fitment, CNC flanges, lifetime warranty, flex pipe) and he said he would make me one for $1000. Sounds like a steal considereing the header makes great power, looks awesome, and if it breaks, I get a new one no questions asked!

 

for $1000 I would personally just pay the little bit extra and get an SMSP. The whole reason the camp1320 appealed for most of us was it was a cheap alternative to these $1k + headers but still made similar power.

 

Karl if you're gonna spend that much then get the SMSP. But FWIW on my fourth gen with the Explicit bar I was able to get the header on and off without removing the traction bar.


Steve... post pics so we can see how much needs to be cut on the stock crossmember

 

yeah I was thinking of SMSP, but is it all that good? do they warranty their stuff?

 

I'm pretty sure they are warrentied. I think I once heard Dave say that he only knew of one of his headers breaking and that was from a crash.

 

hell sounds good to me! rumor has it SMSP has different stage headers ranging from stages 1-3. I've got a stock H22A 11:1 cr with a bunch of bolt ons. Which header App. should I look at?

 

Never head anything bad at all about RMF or SMSP.

Maybe I read it wrong but if someone pays $1000 for a camp1320, you're WAY overpaying. I see them go for $550ish new. I was looking at getting one but a notable source on this site informed me that they have a tendency to crack. I'm still looking into that myself but I recommend looking at that yourself before you buy.

 

yeah I guess I might as well go with something already known to not crack. Tom from Camp1320 was saying that he would take more time and upgrade the header to near SMSP quality for twice the price. I'm just going to go with the SMSP unless I decide to boost. I want to boost but I just don't have the money for that!

 

Better quality for half the price? Right. I'm just going to move on. There's another reason for ya not to get it. Seems like he knows how to do it right but would rather cut corners. I highly doubt it takes double price to do just a little bit more work to make it a quality header. I might need to call and see what gets said to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Karl if you're gonna spend that much then get the SMSP. But FWIW on my fourth gen with the Explicit bar I was able to get the header on and off without removing the traction bar.


Steve... post pics so we can see how much needs to be cut on the stock crossmember </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ill get them up for you tonight. Sorry I meant to get them up sooner.

 

Well I have a bunch of pics of this. Whats another server I can use to show them besides we-did-todd-racing ? Because I keep getting an error when I go to upload them.

 

I posted these before but im not sure if everyone saw them. I guess better late than never.

 

thats not a flex pipe hanging down is it?
it drops down pretty low

 

Yeah thats really low..... a little ot but, has anyone made a protective piece to go under the header?

 

Password jdm do one..

How was the performance btw?

 

ahhh those header, my friend had them and they broke... like rosko said, shouldve bought the smsp, but hey, good luck with them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats not a flex pipe hanging down is it?
it drops down pretty low</TD></TR></TABLE>

shouldn't be that low once connected to the rest of the system, it doesn't look hooked up

 

i took out more than you did
but i ran with out the cross memember and didnt notice anything diferebt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoldLudeRay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i took out more than you did
but i ran with out the cross memember and didnt notice anything diferebt</TD></TR></TABLE>

were you driving without radius bars??

 

i'm pretty sure it wont work without the radius rods!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlang29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

shouldn't be that low once connected to the rest of the system, it doesn't look hooked up</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct. the issue i had was before i had the car running i brought the older header with me and had this header also. I went to a muffler shop and had a piece welded onto the end of the new header, along with a flexpipe. The issue i ran into is that although its the same length as the old header and cat (to reach the catback). We didnt account for the fact that this one sits lower, so its about .5 inch too short. Therefore its unhooked at this time. LOUD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by richlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahhh those header, my friend had them and they broke... like rosko said, shouldve bought the smsp, but hey, good luck with them </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not yet atleast <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shadowz7429 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Password jdm do one..

How was the performance btw?</TD></TR></TABLE>




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