EGR trouble code/removing EGR valve
I have an intermittent EGR trouble code that I'm not quite sure how to attack. I think it's the EGR valve getting stuck, because it only comes on when the car is cold and usually in a higher-vacuum situation (i.e. when I leave work for lunch - right outside there's a hill I have to drive up, and the light always comes on climbing up that hill).
If it is the EGR valve, I'm having a hell of a time getting those two nuts loose. I bought a crow's foot wrench, but I can't get them to budge. I've tried penetrating oil and PB Blaster when the engine is hot and "refreshing" the bolts with more oil/blaster as the engine cools off, but I guess it isn't leaking down enough as I can't get them to move. I can't use a normal socket to get more grip on them. Anybody taken one of these off before?
Also, are there other components of the system that might be affected by cold engine temps+vacuum, or is it more than likely the valve?
If it is the EGR valve, I'm having a hell of a time getting those two nuts loose. I bought a crow's foot wrench, but I can't get them to budge. I've tried penetrating oil and PB Blaster when the engine is hot and "refreshing" the bolts with more oil/blaster as the engine cools off, but I guess it isn't leaking down enough as I can't get them to move. I can't use a normal socket to get more grip on them. Anybody taken one of these off before?
Also, are there other components of the system that might be affected by cold engine temps+vacuum, or is it more than likely the valve?
I just used a socket... it was pretty tight... and it seemed like it had never been removed before... took it out... cleaned.. and put new gasket. The egr, took it out... removed all the gunk that was in there, cleaned it really good and reinstalle everything back.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeR#0427 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are you drving? </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah. that ones important
I didn't have any problems on my 99 4cyl
try using a 1/4 drive. they tend to be slimmer.
I ~may~ have used a U-joint. can't remember. they tend to take some of the torque out of your effort but if they let you get the socket on square, then they are worth a try.
try tightening the nut. sometimes even when you can't loosen a nut/bolt. you can tighten it and that will break the bond.
and when you put it back together. use copper anti-sieze on it.
yeah. that ones important
I didn't have any problems on my 99 4cyl
try using a 1/4 drive. they tend to be slimmer.
I ~may~ have used a U-joint. can't remember. they tend to take some of the torque out of your effort but if they let you get the socket on square, then they are worth a try.
try tightening the nut. sometimes even when you can't loosen a nut/bolt. you can tighten it and that will break the bond.
and when you put it back together. use copper anti-sieze on it.
i have a 98 accord 4cyl and i was replaicning my egr vavle and have had it off once and tried the second time to get it off i tried everything to get it off and broke a quater inch swivel trieng to bust the bolts loose. i am having my head rebuilt so i just took my intake off beat the egr so i could get to the stubborn bolt and used an ease out and ended up coming right off
Mine is 91 EX. I took air intake boot out of the way. I use 14 mm short socket with 3/8" shaft. I almost strip the nuts. I replaced the nuts. Cleaned EGR valve using vacuum, air hose. Believe it or not I used weed eater wire too - by insert it back into where the exhaust comes out. I couldn't believe there's so much junk in there. I also found cracks on the vacuum lines on throttle body.
good luck
good luck
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niceguy12
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jan 8, 2005 02:52 PM




