B18b integra failed smog test please help
94 integra. B18B motor. dont know the miles. AEM short intake. DC headers. stock exhaust system has a leak near the muffler
. running 87 octane. brand new oil. new spark plugs NGK gapped at 0.044. No CEL. 14 degrees BTDC.
Need help. any suggestions? thanks
. running 87 octane. brand new oil. new spark plugs NGK gapped at 0.044. No CEL. 14 degrees BTDC. Need help. any suggestions? thanks
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
did you warm up the car and drive it kind hard before you got there? The cat/O2 sensor only works when it's HOT. So get it hot. Then go.
i just read about that. damn shouldve tried that, but no i didnt drive it hard before getting there. it was barely operating temp. you think i should drive it hard then retest or should i check the cat and o2 first? can i inspect the cat and o2 if i take it out? thanks for the reply.
take a hammer or wrench and lightly hit the cat, if it rattles its bad. and as for the o2 sensor, google = http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blahblah718293 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take a hammer or wrench and lightly hit the cat, if it rattles its bad. and as for the o2 sensor, google = http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the info. ill try hitting the cat. and test the o2.
anything else? according to my numbers, is it most likely my cat and o2?
thanks for the info. ill try hitting the cat. and test the o2.
anything else? according to my numbers, is it most likely my cat and o2?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rufridn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should have used 91+ octane. It makes a difference.
Also, drive your car for a lil bit before you get to the station, and leave it running.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i heard 87 was best for smog. yea before i test ill go drive it hard. maybe race somebody.
Also, drive your car for a lil bit before you get to the station, and leave it running.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i heard 87 was best for smog. yea before i test ill go drive it hard. maybe race somebody.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Darren- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your exhaust leak might be effecting it also.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i just discovered it yesterday. its on the piping RIghT before the muffler. it was puttering loudly so i thought it was on the flange, but its wasnt. so i guess i need to get that welded up.
i just discovered it yesterday. its on the piping RIghT before the muffler. it was puttering loudly so i thought it was on the flange, but its wasnt. so i guess i need to get that welded up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek4shizzle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should i try seafoam?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use Seafoam, but not to pass smog. But we don't have smog tests in Indiana... So idk.. But as far as cleaning the lines and all that, seafoam works great. You can put it in your crankcase too
I use Seafoam, but not to pass smog. But we don't have smog tests in Indiana... So idk.. But as far as cleaning the lines and all that, seafoam works great. You can put it in your crankcase too
High CO is a fuel related issue so i'd check the air/fuel ratio to see if it was too rich or maybe leaking injectors. Is the radiator working properly? NOx forms when cylinder temperatures are over 2500 degrees. No leaking or broken vaccum lines?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnson_n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">High CO is a fuel related issue so i'd check the air/fuel ratio to see if it was too rich or maybe leaking injectors. Is the radiator working properly? NOx forms when cylinder temperatures are over 2500 degrees. No leaking or broken vaccum lines?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need a new Cat/ 02 Sensor/ Plugs/ Wires..Also check the distributor for cracks, and retard by 2 degrees(timing); Warm the hell out of the car (Drive at 5-6k) on freeway or what ever before the test...And seafoam it, then change the oil....Also over inflate the tires before the smog test(less resistance)
You need a new Cat/ 02 Sensor/ Plugs/ Wires..Also check the distributor for cracks, and retard by 2 degrees(timing); Warm the hell out of the car (Drive at 5-6k) on freeway or what ever before the test...And seafoam it, then change the oil....Also over inflate the tires before the smog test(less resistance)
also my ls wasnt passing with my dc 4-1 header, i switched it for the stock one and it passed. the guy at the smog shop said that the dc header wasnt getting the cat hot enough. try that tho. mine had 170k.
lmk how it goes
lmk how it goes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jackson123 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I use Seafoam, but not to pass smog. But we don't have smog tests in Indiana... So idk.. But as far as cleaning the lines and all that, seafoam works great. You can put it in your crankcase too</TD></TR></TABLE>
ill try it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay J »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You need a new Cat/ 02 Sensor/ Plugs/ Wires..Also check the distributor for cracks, and retard by 2 degrees(timing); Warm the hell out of the car (Drive at 5-6k) on freeway or what ever before the test...And seafoam it, then change the oil....Also over inflate the tires before the smog test(less resistance) </TD></TR></TABLE>
ill try to get the cat and o2. my wires arent brand new, but theyre good. my plugs are brand new not even 30 miles, so is my oil. also checked the distributer too at the time. cap and rotor is in good condition. timing is set at 14*btdc. so set it at 12?? i think the worst thing is that i drove less than 2 miles to the shop from a cold engine
so thats a big problem. next time ill make sure it gets hot. so what pressure should i inflate the tires to? never heard of this technique before. thanks for your help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duh naNG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also my ls wasnt passing with my dc 4-1 header, i switched it for the stock one and it passed. the guy at the smog shop said that the dc header wasnt getting the cat hot enough. try that tho. mine had 170k.
lmk how it goes
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn i gotta get a header now? anyone wanna loan me parts for a few hours?? i got stock intake too should that help? yea ill let you know how it went.
thanks for everyones help.
I use Seafoam, but not to pass smog. But we don't have smog tests in Indiana... So idk.. But as far as cleaning the lines and all that, seafoam works great. You can put it in your crankcase too</TD></TR></TABLE>
ill try it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay J »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You need a new Cat/ 02 Sensor/ Plugs/ Wires..Also check the distributor for cracks, and retard by 2 degrees(timing); Warm the hell out of the car (Drive at 5-6k) on freeway or what ever before the test...And seafoam it, then change the oil....Also over inflate the tires before the smog test(less resistance) </TD></TR></TABLE>
ill try to get the cat and o2. my wires arent brand new, but theyre good. my plugs are brand new not even 30 miles, so is my oil. also checked the distributer too at the time. cap and rotor is in good condition. timing is set at 14*btdc. so set it at 12?? i think the worst thing is that i drove less than 2 miles to the shop from a cold engine
so thats a big problem. next time ill make sure it gets hot. so what pressure should i inflate the tires to? never heard of this technique before. thanks for your help.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duh naNG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also my ls wasnt passing with my dc 4-1 header, i switched it for the stock one and it passed. the guy at the smog shop said that the dc header wasnt getting the cat hot enough. try that tho. mine had 170k.
lmk how it goes
</TD></TR></TABLE>damn i gotta get a header now? anyone wanna loan me parts for a few hours?? i got stock intake too should that help? yea ill let you know how it went.
thanks for everyones help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay J »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmnn did he run a fan infront of the car before the smog test?
Personally I'd heatwrap the **** out of the header till it gets to the cat. </TD></TR></TABLE>
nah he didnt run a fan at all. my car was barely warmed up when i got there. could that be the reason my numbers are way high??
Personally I'd heatwrap the **** out of the header till it gets to the cat. </TD></TR></TABLE>
nah he didnt run a fan at all. my car was barely warmed up when i got there. could that be the reason my numbers are way high??
Autozone??
Search PatrickGSR94(there's a promo for the 02 sensor) as for the cat any of em work..If you go with a highflow that will die out in 2 years..
Or I'd just do a 2 cat swap in/swap out.
(that's what a lot of socal guys do)..run 2 cats for smog then swap it out by removing the 2 welded cats then switching it out to a straight pipe with 1 cat (highflow) for dd...
Search PatrickGSR94(there's a promo for the 02 sensor) as for the cat any of em work..If you go with a highflow that will die out in 2 years..
Or I'd just do a 2 cat swap in/swap out.
(that's what a lot of socal guys do)..run 2 cats for smog then swap it out by removing the 2 welded cats then switching it out to a straight pipe with 1 cat (highflow) for dd...
WOW WOW WOW>>> SLOW DOWN...
All this car needs is a new catalytic converter to pass the test. A new O2 sensor never hurt any car. Yours is still working however it might be a little slow. If you want to be super super safe change the cat and 02. But I am 99% sure this car will pass with nothing done to it except replacing the catalytic converter.
You can waste a bunch of time and money if you want, but all the car needs is a generic $100 cat from any muffler shop to pass the test.
All this car needs is a new catalytic converter to pass the test. A new O2 sensor never hurt any car. Yours is still working however it might be a little slow. If you want to be super super safe change the cat and 02. But I am 99% sure this car will pass with nothing done to it except replacing the catalytic converter.
You can waste a bunch of time and money if you want, but all the car needs is a generic $100 cat from any muffler shop to pass the test.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomdata »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WOW WOW WOW>>> SLOW DOWN...
All this car needs is a new catalytic converter to pass the test. A new O2 sensor never hurt any car. Yours is still working however it might be a little slow. If you want to be super super safe change the cat and 02. But I am 99% sure this car will pass with nothing done to it except replacing the catalytic converter.
You can waste a bunch of time and money if you want, but all the car needs is a generic $100 cat from any muffler shop to pass the test.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks dude.
i feel more confident now. yeah i already plan on changing the cat and go for a retest.
All this car needs is a new catalytic converter to pass the test. A new O2 sensor never hurt any car. Yours is still working however it might be a little slow. If you want to be super super safe change the cat and 02. But I am 99% sure this car will pass with nothing done to it except replacing the catalytic converter.
You can waste a bunch of time and money if you want, but all the car needs is a generic $100 cat from any muffler shop to pass the test.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks dude.
i feel more confident now. yeah i already plan on changing the cat and go for a retest.


