hey i was wondering if you had to take apart the whole suspension to do a clutch job?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907431

^im refering to that thread

i'd be using a lift and would have any tools needed for the easiest way to do a clutch job.

also what do they actually do to the flywheel when they resurface it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude_93vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey i was wondering if you had to take apart the whole suspension to do a clutch job?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907431

^im refering to that thread

i'd be using a lift and would have any tools needed for the easiest way to do a clutch job.

also what do they actually do to the flywheel when they resurface it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

they "grind" it down a little bit, so the surface is flat again. you can only resurface a flywheel so many times, till it is to thin. it has markers to tell the resurfacer its limit.

also, ya, The only reason he took the suspension apart, is for the axles, in which, you have to do.

though, I'm not sure why he removed the cross brace thing, I didn't have to on my CRX, actually, on my CRX, I don't think it has one.

I always found it easier to pull the whole motor, to do it.

Be surprised how fast a motor can be pulled out of a honda.

 

well i was thinkin of that but heard its better not to. jus that i always had hard time with suspension lol. how hard is it to disassemble and reassemble that stuff?

 

you can pretty much just follow that write up. the only suspension parts that you need to take off are the ones mentioned in the write up. and yes, they DO need to come off. not a hard job, especially if you have air tools and help.

 

The hardest parts are popping the ball joints, getting the tranny off/on and any rusty bolts you may have...other than that it's pretty straight forward. Have someone to help you with the tranny.

 

thanks everyone. i have that free helms off hondahookup

would that be good enough info for the change?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude_93vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> thanks everyone. i have that free helms off hondahookup

would that be good enough info for the change?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would say no...you don't want to be having to run to the computer every few minutes for torque specs and diagrams and having to scroll through all that crap. Get a Helms book IMO

 

just a little tip, if the lower ball joint doesnt pop out fairly easy, take off the upper ball joint, its much easier and you will have to remove the tie rod end either way before you take out the axle. you wont have as much room to work with, but it does work everytime. i unfortunately do not have the luxury of owning an unrusted vehicle and i had alot of problems with my car the first time i changed my clutch. but im sure you can do it pretty easy especially if you have a lift.

 

The lower ball joints, tie rod joints, lower damper fork joints and right radius rod are the only suspension parts you need to take apart. If those parts are rusty just get a can of pb, a wire brush and a pitman arm puller. Don't use a separater fork or you could rip the boots.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogunkergorilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The lower ball joints, tie rod joints, lower damper fork joints and right radius rod are the only suspension parts you need to take apart. If those parts are rusty just get a can of pb, a wire brush and a pitman arm puller. Don't use a separater fork or you could rip the boots.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You really should replace the ball joints while your at it, its easier then you think.

Air tools, make it cake work.

An air powered pickle fork, make short work of the ball joints.

 

well for right now ive been savin up for a while and i saved enough for a clutch. i wanted to get a flywheel too but need to replace the clutch ASAP. so im not gonna be replacing anything but the clutch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude_93vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well for right now ive been savin up for a while and i saved enough for a clutch. i wanted to get a flywheel too but need to replace the clutch ASAP. so im not gonna be replacing anything but the clutch</TD></TR></TABLE>


Thats not a good idea, but if money is tight. and the car is not drivable.

I guess, you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

well ya especialy comsidering since i lost my job and im only 15, 120 bucks is like my life savings lol

hopefully they'll be able to resurface at school

 

would this be good enough info for a clutch job?

 

^ si or no? (thats a link )

 

why dont you use the write ups from the FAQ or a helmes? the helmes tells you STEP BY STEP with diagrams and so do the write ups for the most part. my reccomendation is to stick to the helmes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude_93vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would this be good enough info for a clutch job?</TD></TR></TABLE>

MAYBE only if you've already done it. then again if you've done it already, you wouldn't need anything.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why dont you use the write ups from the FAQ or a helmes? the helmes tells you STEP BY STEP with diagrams and so do the write ups for the most part. my reccomendation is to stick to the helmes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed. faq writeup is much better than that general skim thru. helms would be your best bet obviously.