Hokay, so my Rays extended lug nuts do not fit over my extended studs (they're just shy of clearing) and I'm going to need some open ended lug nuts. While I'm sure that there are many strong/lightweight lugnuts that I can use, I would still like them to look nice as well. However, please don't mistake that the performance still overrides the looks.

I know that everyone has probably seen the super bling Titanium T1R lug nuts which are in the $500 ballpark, but, I found these forged aluminum ones that are more reasonably priced. Has anyone had any experience with the T1R brand and more specifically the aluminum lug nuts? Any advice would be helpful.

 

i had a T1R muffler that i sorely miss. (sold with previous car) and i will buy T1R exhaust pieces again, ive also installed a header andtest pipe that they make. all pretty legit stuff, but dont get it mixed up with type 1 that spoon is related to. as there is no relation between spoon and T1R

 

Use steel lug nuts. Al and Mg nuts wear quickly and are prone to leaving bits of their threads on the stud. $500 for lug nuts? Anyone who would even consider that is just nuts (lol). I get these open end, tapered seat lugs from my local tire shop for less than a buck apiece. Steel won't ever fail but it doesn't look mad JDM tiGhT with your Volks y0.

 

http://www.949racing.com/index...ID=68

$3.5 each. $56 for 16.

 

i have skunk 2 and daiyama open ended lug nuts. the skunk2s work better on the ARPs.
as far a wear, ive never had lug nuts wear. and up until a month ive had the same lugs for at least 3 years. and i'd prefer al lugs because in the event i damage one, itll wreck the lug, not the stud. makes for easier repair at the track

 

I've used Buddy Club lug nuts on my track car for the past 3 years with ARP extended studs. No problems here either. My car doesn't see street miles, though, only track.

 

Like previous poster said. For racing, use steel. The Al will wear especially if taken out hot. Considering, racers probably take wheels out 3 to 4 times a weekend, either to change them or to check things.

 

Porsche ran aluminum lugnuts for years. Never had any problems. They do them in open and closed ends. Just use antiseize and use caution when removing them. You will be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteener &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Porsche ran aluminum lugnuts for years. Never had any problems. They do them in open and closed ends. Just use antiseize and use caution when removing them. You will be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Porsche run magnesium lug nuts.

 

Not on the production cars. All of the late 70s-80s 911s came with black anodized aluminum alloy lug nuts. Now the Center lock stuff used on the 935/934/962 etc is a different story.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WWDTrackRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

http://www.949racing.com/index...ID=68

$3.5 each. $56 for 16. </TD></TR></TABLE>


that's definatly different design from all the rest as they are threaded all the way through the length of the nut as opposed to buddy club/generic aluminum whatever nuts



I wonder how light those 949 are lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteener &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Porsche ran aluminum lugnuts for years. Never had any problems. They do them in open and closed ends. Just use antiseize and use caution when removing them. You will be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And they probably replaced them quite regularly. I promise you that anyone racing a Honda has better things to spend money on than fancy-pants lightweight lug nuts. AL nuts won't make you faster, are more failure prone than steel, and seriously, don't last as long. I'm saying this based on personal, first hand experience.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use steel lug nuts. Al and Mg nuts wear quickly and are prone to leaving bits of their threads on the stud. $500 for lug nuts? Anyone who would even consider that is just nuts (lol). I get these open end, tapered seat lugs from my local tire shop for less than a buck apiece. Steel won't ever fail but it doesn't look mad JDM tiGhT with your Volks y0. </TD></TR></TABLE>

some guy with a s2k in the a/c actually bought them 500 dollar lugs!!!

i plan on picking a set of them t1r up soon, not really for the track tho..

but when i track it.. some people said the use some steel ebay lugs and they do the job mighty well....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I promise you that anyone racing a Honda has better things to spend money on than fancy-pants lightweight lug nuts. AL nuts won't make you faster, are more failure prone than steel, and seriously, don't last as long. I'm saying this based on personal, first hand experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. Pretty much the way I feel too.

I'll continue to run the Dorman 12x1.5 steel ones for Chevy Baretta/Cavalier (form the NAPA store) until I've got the house paid off, a new motorhome, a two car trailer, and at least two spares for every part on the car.

$50 lug nuts... Sheesh.


Modified by thawley at 7:46 AM 12/6/2007

 

when i bought the first set of daiyamas i dont think i knew there were steel open ended lug nuts with cone shaped seats.

 

I agree you are better off putting that 50$ towards your corner balance or something else like a fire system.

Luckily Hondas and most all imports use a standard tapered seat. Porsche, VW, Audi etc use this goofy ball shaped seat so you don't have much choice if you are converting a wheel bolt car to a stud car. At the time I did my 914 the 911 was the only lug nut available with the Ball seat to match the wheels I was running.

 

exotic lug nuts are consumables... so if you go down the mg route you need to be aware that they need to be replaced MUCH more often than steel. other than that they are great, I love'em

 

Ive also ran buddy clubs on my track car for over 3 years. Not a single issue

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaa1311 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive also ran buddy clubs on my track car for over 3 years. Not a single issue </TD></TR></TABLE>
i gues we dont change wheels as much as everyone else to have to replace lug nuts

 

I just run regular open faced steel Gorilla lug nuts.

 

If you are racing your honda, then steal is a proper choice. For people like me, doing HPDE and removing the wheels twice during the day (once to put the track wheels on, and once to put the street wheels on) then the alum ones are fine. I have a set of alum ones I paid something like 45 bucks for, they've been fine. I wouldn't run then if this was a dedicated track car though.

 

which steel ones would you guys recommend?

 

Pegasus sells some http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...GNUTS

 

porsche does use magnesium lugs, i know, i work at a porsche race shop, we run GT3 cup, grand am, etc, they hold up well, but yea, after time the do have to be replaced, steel will last longer and the weight difference isnt worth the price or trouble to me

 

I'm baffled that to see a thread talking about $500 lug nuts. Holy crap. FYI, I use the standard Discount tire steel ones.