How do I cut the 304L sch10 piping, do I use a vertical bandsaw or buy a small milling machine?

Just curious what is possible and maybe if someone has some jig/clamping ideas as I am trying to make my own sch10 longtube turbo manifold for my sr20.

Also how do you get that goldish finish on the 304L like fullrace and excessive have, I've only seen 304L as a dark brown finish?

I have tried searching how-ever i'l just appreciate someone with some experience with building manifolds to help me out.

Thanks,
Andrew

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gorillam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do I cut the 304L sch10 piping, do I use a vertical bandsaw or buy a small milling machine?

Just curious what is possible and maybe if someone has some jig/clamping ideas as I am trying to make my own sch10 longtube turbo manifold for my sr20.

Also how do you get that goldish finish on the 304L like fullrace and excessive have, I've only seen 304L as a dark brown finish?

I have tried searching how-ever i'l just appreciate someone with some experience with building manifolds to help me out.

Thanks,
Andrew</TD></TR></TABLE>

usually you rough cut with a band saw, chop saw or angle grinder, then finish with a mill or sander. jig's are dependent on the machine your using. depending on your collector length, spacing and inlet flange, you'll want a combination of a couple angles to get your rectangle for the flange. i think for a 4" its 10 degree and 14 degree. can't remember though. somthing close to that.

finish wise, you can polish or hit them with a wire brush. they will turn gold for a short amount of time before they change to brown. all end up brown. nothing you can do about it.

 

seems like a 14" cutoff saw would be the quickest way since it has a clamp and u can set mitre angles.

 

make sure you hold the pipe with your hand too when you cut....


seriously, we are beating a dead horse's skeleton with this thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k24em2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you hold the pipe with your hand too when you cut..../sarcasm


seriously, we are beating a dead horse's skeleton with this thread</TD></TR></TABLE>


hahaha just in case someone thinks you're serious.

 

I find it pointless to try an cut the collector to meet up as a rectangle. I use a bench vise and force it to be rectangle after it's put together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DESTROYER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I find it pointless to try an cut the collector to meet up as a rectangle. I use a bench vise and force it to be rectangle after it's put together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought of that but never tried it. I didn't want to risk marring up the collector from the jaws. I have semi soft jaws but....

Does it really work descent?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DESTROYER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I find it pointless to try an cut the collector to meet up as a rectangle. I use a bench vise and force it to be rectangle after it's put together.</TD></TR></TABLE>


not a bad idea i never thought of that when i was spending countless hours makeing a jig to make a fricken rectangle

ill try to post up some pics of my jig

 

It does mar it, however, the weld covers up the damage if you place it in the vice properly.

 

any photos?

 

search google there should be some sort of online templates for printing out for cutting

 

both of these were square when i started. i used a vice to rectangle them.