i recently have a leaking gasket of some sort, because there's cooling fluid in my oil, losing cooling fluid and temp problems. my motor would have poor idle and weak gas response. i ran some block seal, refilled new oil, and dried my spark plugs (wet from high oil level). for over a week it was back to normal with no leak or loss of power. then it start shaking again but there was no loss of fluid that i know of. i tried taking the spark plugs out to check and see if there's any not firing and for about 10 sec, my engine stalled. now it wouldn't start anymore except for two times but it wouldn' start after you turn it off. i once had this same problem but with no sparks and replacing a ignition coil fixed it. now it sounds like it's going to start but chokes, almost like timing off or motor flood. i can smell the gas too from cranking. any help would be appreciated. thanks.

 

The only thing I can think of that would result in your coolant and oil mixing together is a blown head gasket. Do a compression test on each cylinder and see what the results are.

 

Have you checked the oil since this happened? I had a car one time, not a honda, but it had a block mounted fuel pump. The fuel pump leaked fuel into the crank case to the point that the engine wouldn't run, the crank case was so over full the pistions didn't have a place to go.

It could be instead of fixing the leak you stopped the original one and now you have a new one. I agree with 24TEN that you most like have a head gasket issue.
Jason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ge_itr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i recently have a leaking gasket of some sort, because there's cooling fluid in my oil, losing cooling fluid and temp problems. my motor would have poor idle and weak gas response. i ran some block seal, refilled new oil, and dried my spark plugs (wet from high oil level). for over a week it was back to normal with no leak or loss of power. then it start shaking again but there was no loss of fluid that i know of. i tried taking the spark plugs out to check and see if there's any not firing and for about 10 sec, my engine stalled. now it wouldn't start anymore except for two times but it wouldn' start after you turn it off. i once had this same problem but with no sparks and replacing a ignition coil fixed it. now it sounds like it's going to start but chokes, almost like timing off or motor flood. i can smell the gas too from cranking. any help would be appreciated. thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, you likely have a blown head gasket. That "Block seal" crap is just that, crap! t may stop the initial leak but it can cause other problems and clog up smaller ports/gallies that coolant flows through. I have seen water pumps, radiators, thermostats and even heater cores crap out because of that stop leak crap. good luck, hope you did not ruin anything

 

is a gasket set neccessary or can i just buy the head gasket itself and replace that only?

 

You need to learn punctuation.

 

buy just head gasket or a whole gasket set?

i started the car and ran it for an hour to charge up the battery. no shaking or smoking, seems normal. i'm trying to drive it to my friends garage so i can do the work, but as soon as i pulled out, it stalled. i try to restart it but it won't. i bet it will probably restart when it cools down, it's done this plenty of time before when there's starting problems. any ideas?

 

if coolant is mixing with oil it's the head gasket. or possable the block may have an internal crack. did you over heat the engine? as for the gaskets. you will need valve cover, intake, exhaust depending on what motor you have. may need cam seals etc. etc. may be cheaper to go with the head set. once you have the head off i would check to see how flat the block and head are. to make sure they are not worped.

 

after replacing the head gasket, it still wouldn't start (haven't change oil and coolant yet). i had it towed the shop and they said it was the distributor. after replacing that, i drove it home and turn it off. i tried to restart it but it wouldn't anymore. but after it cools down, it would start again. it use to be like this a long time ago too, but replacing the ignition coil fixed it. while driving home, the car would feel weak (having bad throttle response) sometimes. i'm going to take it back to the shop but does anyone know what's wrong? should i change the oil and coolant before further work on it or wait until the car is fix first, because i'm not sure if it has a problem to do with the starting? can i still refund the money for the distributor because that didn't fix the starting problem?

 

If it were me i'd do a leakdown test to see if you even fixed the problem. The headgasket could have been bad but you may have a warped head, cracked head or something else.
You need to find the actual problem before you throw parts at it.
Chance is they will not refund the distributor. Most of the times you cannot return electrical components.

 

but then the shop said that the starting problem was due to a bad distributor. how can they charge me for something that did not fix the problem?

 

Youll have you take that up with them. Techincally they did not fix your problem so they should diagnose it again for free since you already paid for diag time. But as far as returning your $ for the dist. ??Its up to them.

 

one more thing it could be is your main relay. i had that problem for the whole summer. i got one from honda for $90 and it solved my problem. if it's not your block or your head look into that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ge_itr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but then the shop said that the starting problem was due to a bad distributor. how can they charge me for something that did not fix the problem?</TD></TR></TABLE> check the rotor under your cap, i pulled my hair out for a week trying to figure out why mine would not start, come to find out the rotor had fallen of inside the cap. just my 2 cents

 

thats a good one, my crx did the same thing, the pin on the rotor broke off and it jumped timing, it would stll spark good but not at the right time