So I have many suspension upgrades and need to get an alignment within the week, just got new tires and what not aswell...

Set Up (92 VX Hatch fully gutted, I mean FULLY)

GSR 4 Wheel disk w/SS lines
15mm Double Hubcentric Wheel Spacers w/extended lugs running LS mesh @ 30 offset Falken Ziex 912's (205/50/15) DAILY TIRE
Falken Azenis 615 (205/50/15) on 2nd LS Mesh (Track Set up)
Custom Autopower 4 point Roll bar (not installed yet)
Tein SS (Teg Rates w/custom upper extended mounts/all poly inserts)
Full Race Traction Bar
21mm Front EX Sway Bar/all poly bushings
All Front ES Poly Bushing Kit (LCA's)
Front Progress Poly Camber Kit
4 Point Lower "H" Brace
GSR Upper Strong Bar
Front Upper Strut Bar
SRR Rear LCA's
SRR Adjustable Rear "Toe Bar"
SRR Adjustable Rear "Camber Bar"
Prothane Rear Poly TA Bushings
22mm Progress Sway Bar/All Poly Bushings
ITR Rear Strut Bar
C PIllar Bar
HD Trunk Bar
Custom C Pillar/Trunk Bar X Brace
About a 3in drop or so (full strut travel still)

Thats all I can think of that might affect steering/control...

The car is daily driven and will be seeing the track again (HPDE mainly). Last alignment was a long time ago and the car was a bit higher, and not as many "bars" and most of the poly I should say.....the car has always had the adjustablity listed (camber/toe) the only recent addition was the Fullrace bar to adjust caster.

Now if I recall in the past my after alignment settings where

Front:
Camber - (-1.5) pass and (-1.3) Driver (even'd out w/me in driver seat)
Toe - (1/16th) Out (per side)

Rear:
Camber - (-2)
Toe - Zero


This set up felt good, the car was nuetral, but would rotate very easy w/weight transfer/brakes.......

Now I'm lower, have all poly, smaller front sway bar, FR traction bar, cage, etc etc...

What would you guys suggest w/this set up...

Front:
1/32 Toe Out (per side)
-1.7 Camber Pass
-1.5 Camber Driver
+1 Caster

Rear:
0 Toe
-2.5 Camber

Right now without an alignment the car is tail happy @ high speeds around corners, trail braking is in order to keep from sliding or throttle to keep it planted (lower entry speeds, way high exit speeds).....I'm going to increase rear air pressure to see if added heat will work on nuetralizing the car. after driving around for a while (hot tires) the car corners perfect!!! Point and shoot type of thing........

Just looking for something thats street/race......I only drive the car to work and back maybe a cruise so alil on the aggresive side won't be bad, looking to have tires last along time thought with constant rotations/flips......the car will be aligned on the street tires both sets are brand new.....

Up fo suggestions....should make good conversation...feel free to ask about the set up...thx...


Joser

 

I had very good luck with the following last time I was out :

front
1/16 total toe out
-1.7 camber

rear
0 toe
-1 camber

on azenis in a 98ex coupe @2497lbs w/o driver.

After a session, my tire pressures landed around 39/40psi front, and 38psi rear. I had very even tire wear across the surface of the tire and I used a pyrometer and found that my temps across the rear were all within 5deg. So the rear camber seemed to be pretty good. The car was very neutral (10k/8k spring rates, 24/22mm sways), and the rear end broke loose very predictably.

 

Well, you are running the car with street springs, so you should run it with a street type alignment. Just set the toe to zero all around, and around -2 camber on the front and -1.5 on the rear. If you have to completely lift to get the car to rotate, that is not a car that oversteers, you need much more front grip.

Depending on the track, I run around -3.0 in the front and -2.25 in the rear, but i have much higher spring rates.

And raise your car up an inch or so, it is way too low.

 

its slammed just about, but I have full strut travel, it does not need to be lifted......

 

i have a similar set up with stiffer springs my camber is 1/16" toe out and -2.3 in the front and -1.8 in the rear w/ 0 toe and ive had really good luck with it.

 

Free bump from azht