EGT Hatch, B16A2 swap, Running P30 chipped and also a stock P28.

She will not prime (Fpump) half the time, and when she does... Still won't start. We swapped the pump with a good one. And we are getting pressure to the filter, and past it to the regulator. Which we swapped with a good one.

Sometimes she throws a solid code on both ECU's, sometimes she doesn't.

At first she was rollin tough, then out of no where she would totally lose all power, couldn't keep revs up, and would die all in a matter of seconds. 30 seconds later the fucken piece of **** would start right up. Run another minute or two, and... BAM, dead again.

It might just be me but it seems as though, when we would reset the ecu she would fire right up.

There is alot going on with this fucken piece of ****. So this will be a hard one to figure out for sure. She used to throw a #9 CEL ---> https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2147773 but we sort of solved that one by rebuilding dizzy, but I fear that maybe we are still having an issue with the rotor or something.

We swapped the main relay, I also have noticed, that when I expletive with the ecu fuse or the bay fuse panel that there is some sort of clicking in the dizzy. And relay's start clicking on and off.

THIS IS I HATE THIS HATCH. expletive TONY KIM.

Fire away and feel free to flame on.

 

is there a good ground for the fuel pump? if it isnt solid or doesnt have a strong enough ground when turnong the car over it wont allow it to start. just my experience.

 

i am afraid there is ample ground


Modified by turbogirl84 at 2:15 AM 11/29/2007

 

Last time the same thing happened to my dumb *** and the ground from the engine harness that goes right on top of the thermostat housing was loose! Let us know what it is when you find out

 

sounds like somethings wrong with the wiring/harness. who's tony kim?

EDIT:: NEVERMIND i did some research and i found the answer to "who's Tony Kim?" lol.. sounds like this guy just buys messed up parts to make a car look complete and run for a few test drives.


Modified by bpkmrtoes at 1:09 AM 11/29/2007

 

Injectors swapped still nothing. She is priming everytime now, I don't get it. We are at a fucken loss.

 

main harness ground is mint, and we are not throwing ANY codes. The car is firing hella fast like its super advanced. Maybe just the brand new battery we had to throw in there.

 

ok, so... After a few mins of research as to where in the hell the BARO sensor is located... And after searching 1300+ pages of the helms manual.. Any help in regards to what is going on here would be awesome. {edit- We read that it is usually in the ECU. But now we are confused, it is a A2 motor, running a stock P28 and a chipped JDM P30. WTF!!}


Modified by turbogirl84 at 12:06 PM 11/29/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogirl84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">main harness ground is mint, and we are not throwing ANY codes. The car is firing hella fast like its super advanced. Maybe just the brand new battery we had to throw in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

check your timing belt homegirl , make sure all those little dots line up

 

check page 11-70 of the service manual. The PA (boro sensor) is built into the ECU.

But there isn't one in the JDM P30, there is in the P28.
If the person chipping the P28 did so in a hurry or wasn't careful he may have taken it out via ESD shock.
disable it.

tell your tuner to replace the electrolytic next to the plug, he should know what that means. (the cap goes bad and makes the ECU inable to turn on the fuel pump, when the cap starts to go bad it will do so intermittently)

 

Timing belts dead on, the rotor was 180 off, the p28 is stock, the electrolytic is mint. We are missing something. Something simple and easy I would wager.

 

rotor was 180 off? and that didnt fix the problem?


damn well the only thing i can think of is the chipped p30. Im running a stock p30 on my b16 and it runs fine. If you are trying to run the p28 stock it will not work as the map is for a D16z6 or something like that. It would need to be chipped to work properly with a b16.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogirl84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Timing belts dead on, the rotor was 180 off, the p28 is stock, the electrolytic is mint. We are missing something. Something simple and easy I would wager.</TD></TR></TABLE>
rotor 180* off will cause problems. had to be cranked down pretty hard to crush the pin on the bottom of it...

electrolytic is mint = looks good or was replaced?
they can look good and have all ready leaked from the bottom causing problems. I've seen that more than once.
make sure that your fuses have good connections on them, replace them if you have the means. I've seen fuses get charred a little on the legs and make intermittent connections, same with the terminals that the fuse plugs into.

 

also you stated you fixed the fuel problem correct me if i am wrong .

how many Kvs are you getting out of the wires??