I plastiguaged the bearings on the main to .28mm which is right where i want them. when i first torqued the mains down the crank spun freely. then if i let it sit for like 30 seconds then it wont budge without like a breaker bar to get it started then it will again turn freely by hand.
i torqued qown the mains to teh 85ft/lbs that teh ARP main studs said to. that is also where i plastiguaged the bearings.


i have never had this happen and i am wondering what to check?? or if it is just the assembly lube? have you ever had this issue?

 

85 sounds too high dude. for main bearing oil clearances on b-series goes like this

journals 1245 .0009 to .0017
.002 max

journal 3
.0012 to .0019 with a max of .0024

 

take the arp main studs off and get new factory main bolts. If you read the info the arp main studs require you to have the motor align bored with them bolted up.

the factory specs for ls main bolts are 56 ft lbs and gsrs and type r are 49 ft lbs on the girdle and 56 on the outter caps. if the motor still doesnt spin freely you have no choice but to have it align bored

 

What Danny said, I had to get my motor align bored/honed when I went to ARP main studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the arp main studs off and get new factory main bolts. If you read the info the arp main studs require you to have the motor align bored with them bolted up.

the factory specs for ls main bolts are 56 ft lbs and gsrs and type r are 49 ft lbs on the girdle and 56 on the outter caps. if the motor still doesnt spin freely you have no choice but to have it align bored</TD></TR></TABLE>

can i just torque down the studs to the factiory spec???

 

you can but it effects the oil clearences and the bolts stretch differently then they were made for. earl told me a while back hes done it before.I would just put stock bolts new from the dealer. you do not need arp main studs