I did a compression test, from cylinders 1-4 results were 160, 210, 210, 215. For some reason i get cylinder 1 and 3 misfire CEL. I've already replaced the dizzy, new cap and rotor, new wires and plugs. I even swapped out the ecu and injectors. I got a new Head gasket cause originally compression test results were 90, 210,180, 215. Im not burning oil, and the cylinder 1 spark plug looks just as clean as the rest. I know that rings are bad in cylinder 1 cause when i poured a little oil in the cylinder, cylinder pressure shot up to 220. Any ideas why im still getting a cylinder 1 and 3 misfire?

 

did you replace the ignition coil too?

 

Also why is number 1 so low on compression? You may have a burnt valve.

 

i've seen one bad cylinder cause codes for other cylinders and even random misfire code. Thats too much of a drop for it to be acceptable....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soaringchimp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also why is number 1 so low on compression? You may have a burnt valve. </TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know that rings are bad in cylinder 1 cause when i poured a little oil in the cylinder, cylinder pressure shot up to 220.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it was a valve problem, adding oil to the cylinder would have had little effect.

 

so then the bad rings in cylinder 1 can cause the cylinder 3 misfire also?

 

It will read as though 3 is misfiring but its really not. ecu looks at irregular pulses coming from the crank fluctuation sensor behind the crank pulley. just a possibility...I have seen it before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you replace the ignition coil too?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, complete dizzy was replaced, new oem cap and rotor, oem wires and autolite platinum plugs. I hope its not the rings, cause i need to pass the CEL test at the state ref, i already passed smog and visual inspections, just failed cause i had stored trouble codes for cylinder 1 random misfire. But the thing is, my CEL wasn't on when i got to the state ref, he said it was stored in the ecu and tripped the CEL to turn on when he hooked up his snap on unit to test for datalogging.

 

That makes sense since the cylinders 1 & 3 are in line with one another during stroke, i hoped i wouldn't have to rebuild the block so soon, its only a 4 month old build.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did a compression test, from cylinders 1-4 results were 160, 210, 210, 215. </TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i poured a little oil in the cylinder, cylinder pressure shot up to 220</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not much more ignition troubleshooting required. Perform a leakdown and an autopsy

 

Do you think running a thicker oil like a 20W50 get me by just to pass state ref inspection. I passed visual and smog test already, i just need to pass the CEL test. The ref. inspector caught a stored trouble code, cylinder 1 and 3 random misfire, but my CEL never came on before the inspection, it only turned on after he hooked up his snap on machine.

 

you need to fix that misfire code... do a leak down test..edit...n/m

 

What will the leakdown test reveal besides worn or bad rings, i don't think i have bad valves, the build only has about 400 miles on it, new supertech flat faced valves, new valves job, and the head was pressure tested? Thanks you your help people

 

leak down test will let u know if its in the bottom end or top end

 

Im pretty sure its the rings, cause like a said in a previous post, when i pour like a capfull of oil down the cylinder, pressure shoots up to 220. But do you think running a thicker oil like 20W50 would get me buy the ref inspection?

 

It could, but it could also pop seals. If you just want to pass inspect, try a can of Rislone.

 

Tried that, pressure went from 150 to 160 on cylinder 1, all the rest stayed at 210

 

You could try heavier oil, sure. Or you could be SOL and need a rebuild. And yes, bad rings can cause misfires.

 

That's the f'ed up part, this build is 400 miles old, i haven't even properly broke her in yet, but i gotta pass state ref inspection

 

You may be eligible for a one time waiver due to the cost of engine repairs necessary to bring your car into compliance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i haven't even properly broke her in yet </TD></TR></TABLE>

That may be an issue as well. Either that or something **** the bed during "break in". Were new parts put on(new rings, seals, etc.?) for the first build?

 

who do i speak to about that, the court of the state ref?


Modified by all-mtr-teg at 3:34 PM 11/29/2007

 

Well, i got the ticket while i was driving around breaking it in. I was at a stop light and the cop said he could smell my emisions so he sent me to the state ref. And yes, all new parts were used, new rings, new bearings, gasket set.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who do i speak to about that, the court of the state rev?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The testing facility should give you the information that you need and clearly explain your options. Read up here:
http://smogcheck.ca.gov/StdPag...s.htm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CA BAR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Repair Cost Waivers are available to everyone who has a vehicle that fails a biennial inspection and
who's emission system has not been tampered with. It allows a vehicle to be registered without passing its
Smog Check inspection by providing a temporary (two year) extension of time to complete all emissions-related
repairs. To qualify, at least $450 in emissions-related repairs must be made to the vehicle at a licensed Smog
Check station. The waiver may only be used once by a motorist during their ownership of the vehicle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Cool, thanks for the info.