Well guys this is a topic that everyone ask. But I have done some research and i just want to get some clarification. So I checked my secondary oxygen sensor for ohms and it read between 10-40 ohms like it should. So i checked my connector (female) for voltage and it read .04v so im not sure if thats correct... so i took it as it had voltage going to my o2. Then my last step i checked the ecu pins on my connecter A for A5 and A6 for continuity and it didn't show any continuity on ohms... so not sure if i don't have a good ground or is my ecu bad... i know this may seem a little vague... but please work with me...

 

Bump

 

Help??

 

the ECU turns on the heater via ground signal, so the ohm readings you mention make sense.
Check why you don't have 12V at the heater feed line.

 

well i've noticed something earlier today... i checked the voltage to the o2 and it doesn't give me a reading when i ground it against the body.. but when i ground the voltage meter to the heat shield it gives me a reading on the HO2S but on the ecu between plug A5 and A6 it wont give me a reading on the ecu

 

I think I know what the problem is, but do this to make sure...
you have two black wires, one has to have 12V and the other has to have ground.
Not a literal ground, it's a signal ground from the ECU, so don't expect it to be connected to ground.

With the car turned off and the key out of the ignition... Check the ohms from A5 to one of the black wires, then the other black wire to one of the wires at the EVAP purge solinoid. (it gets 12V from the same place)
Both should be close to zero ohms.

 

Ok i checked the plug A5 and A10 with the harness still plugged into the ECU. I checked for the ohms and i got a reading of 21.2 ohms. Also i went ahead and checked my A6 and A10 plugs and the reading was just skipping around all over the place... is that normal or did i do it incorrectly.


Modified by dc2_97teg at 3:12 PM 11/29/2007

 

I also checked the evap purge control solenoid valve wire A15 to A10 and i got 0 Ohms...

 

there are two black wires on your O2 sensor that I reference here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the car turned off and the key out of the ignition... Check the ohms from A5 to one of the black wires, then the other black wire to one of the wires at the EVAP purge solinoid. (it gets 12V from the same place)
Both should be close to zero ohms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
don't connect to A10 or A15 right now.

note for the above post... the 12V ignition is likely a black/yellow wire.

Also a jumping ohm readings tends to mean that there is voltage on the line. Make sure your ignition is off. The primary O2 heater works fine, no need to check it.

 

well if im following what your saying... am i still supposed to do it from the ecu or the o2 sensor itself? But with the sensor itself i checked both the black wires and i got 13 ohms... but on the ecu if i understood correctly i checked A5 to A10 if thats right and i got 21.3 ohms... for some reason i feel like im not doing it correctly...

 

take the meter, set it to ohms.
take the key out of the ignition.
black lead to one of the black O2 wires
the red lead to A5. less than 50 ohms is fine.

second test, move the red lead to the black/yellow wire on the purge solinoid. less than 50 ohms is fine.

I have a feeling that the second test is going to fail.

 

ok so i took the red lead to A5 and the black lead to all of the black wires on plug A. i got the same reading 21.1 Ohms. as for the yellow/black wires i used the read lead and kept the black lead on the black wires and i didn't get any readings... highest it went to was .003 Ohms...

 

and my purge solenoid wire is red and that is A15 and i don't have any black and yellow wires hooked up on my ecu they are yellow and black... and the harness which connects to the o2 sensor directly has black and yellow.... and not sure its probably complicated cause this is a rs car with a gsr motor and only a gsr motor harness... the harness under the dash is a non vtec 97.. and gsr is 98...

 

also if you have aim or via telephone... this would greatly speed up the process.... but i already appreciate your help... just im almost on the impatient side if you understand...

 

any help at this time?

 

got your IM, sorry for the delay in response. life happens some times.

I meant yellow/black above not black/yellow. So you did it correctly.

the highest it went was .003 ohms, which means far less than 50 ohms. (see good thing)
Try the other black wire on the O2 with the black lead of the meter. (red lead of meter to the yellow/black) and you should get the 21.3 ohms.


the next test, set meter to DC Volts, meter's red lead to black wire on O2, black lead of meter to any good ground. (ground wire on valve cover works well)
Switch the ignition to Run (position II) with the car not running. The testing must be done within the 30 seconds of switching on the ignition.
If you get 0V try the other O2 black wire. One should have ground the other should have 12V. If both have the same reading then there is your problem.
Finding the problem is 90% of the battle.

Sorry for drawing this out on you, I don't have the manual for the 96-97 teg, or I'd simply post the troubleshooting diagram from it for this CEL.
Speaking of which, if you purchase the Helm manual (honda service manual maker) it will take you step by step with wire colors on how to troubleshoot this problem.

 

thanks alot man... hopefully i can figure it out tomorrow!! I really appreciate the help!