civic dies when engine's warm, not main relay.

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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 09:08 AM
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Default civic dies when engine's warm, not main relay.

So yesterday I solved the problem of the engine burning coolant, and now the car runs great, but it seams if I have yet to make it drivable, because now that I can get it to run long enough to warm up, it turns off and won't start back up. It's weird, usually this problem is with the main relay, but it's not because it's brand new and I even have a spare I put in and it didn't fix it. The problem is when the car gets to about 1/2 to operating temperature, it bit above the C, it just turns off and refuses to start. I was wondering if anyone had an idea to this fix b4 I go off to school. Thanks for any help.
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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Default Re: civic dies when engine's warm, not main relay. (JasonST)

sounds like a bad igniter in the distributor
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 09:58 AM
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Default Re: civic dies when engine's warm, not main relay. (jlicrx)

Sounds logical, I guess when I get time today I'll check it for spark. But when the ignitor goes bad doesn't it make the tach jump and cause backfire problems, this just simply turns off like I turned it off with the key. Thanks for the help though I'll check it out.
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 10:45 AM
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I have had this problem with my friends civic its the distrubitor and or it can be the fuel pump its self
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 12:30 PM
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Default Re: (thatonekid)

Im sort of having the same trouble.except I just swapped in a new fuel pump. so I know thats not it. Ill try my spare dizzy today see if thats my problem hope you get yours fixed. or rather we both get ours fixed
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 01:08 PM
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Default Re: (IP RACING)

It could also be the coil, swapping dist. should help with this as well.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 03:02 PM
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Default Re: (YLWCRX)

Well today I let the car warm up to operating temperature, and nothing happened, I mean it ran like it was supposed to, so I drove it around a bit and it drove fine and didn't die.. I really love these intermitent problems, now I fear if I drive it around it'l die on me and refuse to start. I tested the coil through helms, and the + and - terminals were perfect connectivity, 0 ohms, whereas helms says it should be .2-.8 ohms, so is that a good thing or bad? I thought if it was bad it would be more resistance, not less. Thanks for the help so far.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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Default Re: (JasonST)

I swapped dizzys and still doing the same ****. so far Ive put in a new fuel pump. new fuel filter. swapped dizzy. I dont know 3what else to do
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 03:28 PM
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expletive dizzy and all that ****, check ignition switch. mine never shut off because of how the solder burnt off, but my radio and heater fan would shut off at random times. and go on when they please. so check that all the solders on the back of the ignition switch are ok. just went to the JY, grabbed a new one, all you'll need is a 19mm on extension, pull of steering wheel, phillips to remove the 3 screws in the bottom holding the column cover on, and then a 6mm wrench or 1/4" rachet to take the 2 fasteners off the back of the lock cyl, and then unplug from fusebox, and unplug from other clip, and its out. then reverse for installation of ignition switch. done.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 04:17 PM
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Default Re: (torontoefsedan)

I think the ignition switch is fine, plus i'm not having a problem with the radio or anything, when it turns off it cranks just fine just doesn't start, if it happens again i'm ganna check to confirm no spark... if it acts up again.. Anyone have an idea about what i said earlier? About the ignition coil having too little resistance?
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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If the coil is out of spec, replace it. There is a spec for a reason.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 07:15 PM
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I've never met a honda coil that met honda's specs to a T. Even brand new ones don't meet all the specs. It makes it much more difficult to test for a bad/good one.

But thats just my experiences.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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Default Re: (accordaffair)

the thing is everything in my car is working fine. car starts up perfect everythign works perfect but once it gets warm after about 5 or 6 minutes of driving then it just starts bogging down and cuts out
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 08:11 AM
  #14  
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Default Re: (IP RACING)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IP RACING &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the thing is everything in my car is working fine. car starts up perfect everythign works perfect but once it gets warm after about 5 or 6 minutes of driving then it just starts bogging down and cuts out</TD></TR></TABLE> U ever checked ur main relay?
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 02:26 PM
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Default Re: (JasonST)

Having the same problem, chk the ground to the thermostat housing
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Old Mar 10, 2022 | 08:46 PM
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Default Re: (IP RACING)

Originally Posted by JasonST
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IP RACING &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the thing is everything in my car is working fine. car starts up perfect everythign works perfect but once it gets warm after about 5 or 6 minutes of driving then it just starts bogging down and cuts out</TD></TR></TABLE> U ever checked ur main relay?

Hey i know this is a dead thread but I am experiencing the same problem now. Any luck with a solution?
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