Cleaning up wiring is a pain in the ***. Everything except a fuel injector and the distributor were wired up properly when I got my car back and limped it home. The idle was searching prior to taking it in, but once I got the car back, it appeared fixed however I was in limp mode and throwing a 4 & 16.

I've solved the 4 and gotten rid of the cel that the 16 was throwing from improperly wiring one injector. I still have a code 16 however, and the idle is lumpy but less so. Part of what he was doing was cleaning up and soldering wires I hadn't. The jumping idle is far less frequent or high in the revs than it was prior to this, but it still exists.

My question is would not having a fuel injector soldered in (only twisted ATM) and a distributor wire soldered cause this issue? I'm thinking drain from not properly making a circuit messing with things?

Thanks!

 

If the connection wasn't that good it could cause the injector to not work properly, resulting in a lumpy idle and code 16. I say figure it all out, wire it up and solder it properly, then see if the idle is still wack. If it is, I'd check the usual, FITV, IACV and vacuum.

 

Yeah, that's my inclination. Since it got better from soldering up most of them I've got a good shot at it.

 

I find not soldering them is only worth doing until you know the wiring is good. Once it is you solder everything.

I usually solder from the bat just to avoid issues like this. The only time I did solder from the bat was for a few sensors on my dizzy when I did my first OBD1 conversion 2 summer ago now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I find not soldering them is only worth doing until you know the wiring is good. Once it is you solder everything.

I usually solder from the bat just to avoid issues like this. The only time I did solder from the bat was for a few sensors on my dizzy when I did my first OBD1 conversion 2 summer ago now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, my issue was I couldn't wire worth a damn before paying money to a guy that got it running, and I started learning to read wire diagrams real well.

I'm not patient with a soldering iron, which causes issues, but I will be soldering the rest up tonight.

Off topic question - the 88 box LCAs will bolt right up to the 91 assembly right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustAnotherRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Off topic question - the 88 box LCAs will bolt right up to the 91 assembly right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

they should.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustAnotherRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, my issue was I couldn't wire worth a damn before paying money to a guy that got it running, and I started learning to read wire diagrams real well.

I'm not patient with a soldering iron, which causes issues, but I will be soldering the rest up tonight.

Off topic question - the 88 box LCAs will bolt right up to the 91 assembly right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I welded up a jig to hold my wires for me and my soldering iron. Worked out great. I just clip the wires in and it holds it tight against my soldering iron which I leave always on. Then I just apply the solder when the wire is hot. Works like a charm. Not the greatest in tight situation but I usually do my wiring off the car as much as possible.

When your main source of work on cars is fixing butchers work, you get good at wiring.