HELP! Engine misfires, stalls out on highway or at idle, no one knows why!!
Help!
I have a 2000 Auto Civic Si and it's the worst car ever made!
Approximately 2.5 years ago the engine started choking... driving along fine and then suddenly the whole car heaves and shakes and loses power and there's no reaction from pressure on the gas pedal. However, this is sporadic. Never consistent. It happens in good weather, bad weather, at idle, on the highway, you name it. But not regularly... So, after 10 trips to the mechanic, no one's felt it and therefore they all say they can't diagnose it.
Then, finally, the engine light came on. However, it reads that it's the catalytic converter. So, I took it to the dealership and had the exhaust system replaced. (Yes, it was fried, and so was the whole system)
Then all was fine... for abut 20 minutes, when the light came on again (reading catalytic converter, of course, even though it's brand new)
I ignored it for as long as possible - until the shakes/chokes/etc started again.
The only way to save the car from stalling is popping it into 3rd and crossing my fingers (on the highway) or into neutral and pumping the gas (off highway).... not a great confidence-booster!!
So, it's about a year later and I've just had the catalytic converter replaced AGAIN!! This time because I failed my emissions test miserably. This mechanic said that my O2 sensor was installed incorrectly and the CC is fried as well as the sensor... so everything was replace.
Finally, I think it's fixed... and I've passed the emissions test... and now, less than 24 hours later, the car has stalled out on the highway, in the snow...(great)... and the engine feels like it's misfiring as soon as i get to 3000 rpms.
Has anyone seen or heard of this??? Does anyone have any ideas what the heck is going on??? I am desperate. The car's paid off and I don't want another car payment. I just want it fixed!!!
Thanks,
S
I have a 2000 Auto Civic Si and it's the worst car ever made!
Approximately 2.5 years ago the engine started choking... driving along fine and then suddenly the whole car heaves and shakes and loses power and there's no reaction from pressure on the gas pedal. However, this is sporadic. Never consistent. It happens in good weather, bad weather, at idle, on the highway, you name it. But not regularly... So, after 10 trips to the mechanic, no one's felt it and therefore they all say they can't diagnose it.
Then, finally, the engine light came on. However, it reads that it's the catalytic converter. So, I took it to the dealership and had the exhaust system replaced. (Yes, it was fried, and so was the whole system)
Then all was fine... for abut 20 minutes, when the light came on again (reading catalytic converter, of course, even though it's brand new)
I ignored it for as long as possible - until the shakes/chokes/etc started again.
The only way to save the car from stalling is popping it into 3rd and crossing my fingers (on the highway) or into neutral and pumping the gas (off highway).... not a great confidence-booster!!
So, it's about a year later and I've just had the catalytic converter replaced AGAIN!! This time because I failed my emissions test miserably. This mechanic said that my O2 sensor was installed incorrectly and the CC is fried as well as the sensor... so everything was replace.
Finally, I think it's fixed... and I've passed the emissions test... and now, less than 24 hours later, the car has stalled out on the highway, in the snow...(great)... and the engine feels like it's misfiring as soon as i get to 3000 rpms.
Has anyone seen or heard of this??? Does anyone have any ideas what the heck is going on??? I am desperate. The car's paid off and I don't want another car payment. I just want it fixed!!!
Thanks,
S
Well, fried cat that quick says to me raw fuel is getting into the converter somehow. Sticky injectors, a hole in the pressure regulator diaphragm, something like that. Do you have any "system lean/rich " codes or is it just a "catalyst efficiency" code? (and old *** Kia's are the worst cars ever made)
Something is making the car misfire, which in turn is dump raw fuel into the converter killing its efficiency. I would say that it would be igniton related. Also when your converter takes a **** the O2 sensors won't invert properly, so unless there is a code for the O2 sensor don't replace it. You need to first make sure you have a competent mechanic. Then you need to leave you car with him & let him drive it untill he can duplicate the problem. Doesn't seem like it would be that hard to diagnose. Where do you live?
Lately I have been going with the "Replace the igniter" program.I used to carry a ballast resister and the tools to replace it in my Dodge.Now I carry an igniter and the tools to replace it in my Honda.
What would help us would be the actual obd2 codes. Like P0420 for catalyst efficiency. Any O2 sensor codes? Above limit? Below limit?
Catalytic converters should be lasting longer than that...
You know not to drive your car when the CEL Flashes right? This means your catalytic converter is being damaged from SEVERE MISFIRING.
So You have an intermittent misfire condition seemingly non dependant on anything...How many miles are on the car/engine?
You need to have a scanner hooked up to the car looking at different sensor values to diagnose whats happening when the car starts acting up.
Catalytic converters should be lasting longer than that...
You know not to drive your car when the CEL Flashes right? This means your catalytic converter is being damaged from SEVERE MISFIRING.
So You have an intermittent misfire condition seemingly non dependant on anything...How many miles are on the car/engine?
You need to have a scanner hooked up to the car looking at different sensor values to diagnose whats happening when the car starts acting up.
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