Looking for critique from actual cage builders and fabricators please. I know the design is not the best, but this car is the size of a shopping cart and the owner is like 6'4'' and 260 pds maybe? And among all the other things i did to this car, the budget would not allow to go crazy and build a real "cage" in it. The hoop is welded to the boxed B pillar near the top on either side. Thanks for looking.

 

bad *** little car haha

 

That just doesnt seem safe at all....granted hurtling at 160mph in a honda isnt exactly the safest either lol

 

No door bars or Halo?

 

It is just a roll bar and not a full cage. Now granted, I think door bars would be a good addition, however it is all up to him.

 

cage work looks ok to me, but what do i know. how is a car that small a 4 door? it looks really narrow on the *** end. i'd be concerned about roll overs too!

 

Desing overall is not that bad, anchor point must be very heavy and solid due to the long bar running across the upside body panel, in the eventuality of a crash, the leverage force going across the boxed joint will be high.

one other thing, this look like a full on drag car, the onwner will have tire rubing problem during burnout because the external diameter of the tire will extend about 3 inch on low pressure setting, can cause a blowout.

small thought !

keep up good work's !

JP

 

What bender are you using and are you using software?

 

to RTernie and redneck dave, i tried to pursuade the owner to do a halo and a-pillar bars, but like i said earlier, among all the other things i did to this car, the budget would not allow. Plus he specifically said no door bars. Hes like 65, has a bad back, and getting into this is like climbing into a crawl space.

And to kranked91dx, like the title states, its a pro street car not a full on drag car and those are mickey thompson et streets, which unlike wrinkle walls, do not have as drastic of an expansion rate. The car is setup right now with the coilovers bottomed out, with 1.75'' of clearance between the tire and fender. I set it up this way so he could have the adjustability of setting his desired ride height once he puts the car back together.

And CSaddict, Im using a JD2 bender and bend tech pro

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4cefed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to RTernie and redneck dave, i tried to pursuade the owner to do a halo and a-pillar bars, but like i said earlier, among all the other things i did to this car, the budget would not allow. Plus he specifically said no door bars. Hes like 65, has a bad back, and getting into this is like climbing into a crawl space.

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That is what I figured. I have seen too many hotrods back home with just a roll bar because the owners just want the look rather than the safety so they do a roll bar like this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kranked91dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Desing overall is not that bad, anchor point must be very heavy and solid due to the long bar running across the upside body panel, in the eventuality of a crash, the leverage force going across the boxed joint will be high.
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That was also my first thought. There is going to be a LOT of leverage at that point if the car ever turns shiny side down. Without seeing it in person, it is difficult to say if the anchor points are adequate right now, but they may be.

Other than that (possible) design critique, the actual fab works looks fine.

 

I love Anglias. Those welds are mighty pretty that's for sure.

 

Dude, cage looks great! Dont let these guys give you a hard time. Im a domestic guy, and am very into drag racing, and have built alot of cages, as well as full chassis cars. Not saying anything negative towards the other guys here, but this car will likely never go down the track. I know how "Pro Street" guys are! HAHA.
Your work looks superb though! Just another note to "kranked", you cannot say all tires grow the same..believe me, they DO NOT! A pro stock tire (Goodyear 1022), will have a diameter of almost 10" larger at 200 mph, than when sitting still. All tires are different...to say they grow 3" is a huge lie. Dont fool yourself.
Again, good cage work buddy! Keep it up.
Kyle

 

The tires on the car in the photos are street tires and probably don't expand much at all under accelaration. If the owner didn't want a full cage this car probably won't see much track time anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude, cage looks great! Dont let these guys give you a hard time. Im a domestic guy, and am very into drag racing, and have built alot of cages, as well as full chassis cars. Not saying anything negative towards the other guys here, but this car will likely never go down the track. I know how "Pro Street" guys are! HAHA.
Your work looks superb though! Just another note to "kranked", you cannot say all tires grow the same..believe me, they DO NOT! A pro stock tire (Goodyear 1022), will have a diameter of almost 10" larger at 200 mph, than when sitting still. All tires are different...to say they grow 3" is a huge lie. Dont fool yourself.
Again, good cage work buddy! Keep it up.
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ahh im not worried about it. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. This guy much have some huge ***** to want to take this thing down a strip. I could see it getting speed wobbles like a skateboard or something haha. But anyways, once the owner finishes the interior and gets the gas tank and his ice chest he wants in it, im gonna go back and add some more support to those rear bars.

 

bump

 

that is really good ive never heard/seen that car before

 

fitment and welding look awsome.

that car is pretty sweet. nothing like driving around a mailbox with seats and a ton of power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude, cage looks great! Dont let these guys give you a hard time. Im a domestic guy, and am very into drag racing, and have built alot of cages, as well as full chassis cars. Not saying anything negative towards the other guys here, but this car will likely never go down the track. I know how "Pro Street" guys are! HAHA.
Your work looks superb though! Just another note to "kranked", you cannot say all tires grow the same..believe me, they DO NOT! A pro stock tire (Goodyear 1022), will have a diameter of almost 10" larger at 200 mph, than when sitting still. All tires are different...to say they grow 3" is a huge lie. Dont fool yourself.
Again, good cage work buddy! Keep it up.
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kyle; I know tire expansion rate are not the same, but I didn't know they where Street ET, I thought about MT Drag tire, wich expand a lot depending on the overall diameter of the tire and pressure setting. Sorry if this sounded bad, English is not my native language, so I may actually type in a way I think is correct but that is not reflecting every bit of my thought since I lack vocabulary.
In hope not to induce anybody in error with this.

thank's for the pin point!

JP

 

How do you guys figure out where the center of the bends are going to be in order to replicate the bends over again to make a matching bar?? I am going to start tackeling a cage soon, and im very new to this. We have a pro-tools bender, with the 1 5/8's die set, but finding the center line of the radious's is begining to be very difficult. Any links you guys could provide to help me out would be greatly apreciated!

Work, and welds look top notch if i do say so myself!

Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Janz99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you guys figure out where the center of the bends are going to be in order to replicate the bends over again to make a matching bar?? I am going to start tackeling a cage soon, and im very new to this. We have a pro-tools bender, with the 1 5/8's die set, but finding the center line of the radious's is begining to be very difficult. Any links you guys could provide to help me out would be greatly apreciated!

Work, and welds look top notch if i do say so myself!

Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm not a cage builder, but i used to do a ton of sheet metal work. when i needed to figure out stretch (which is what i'm assuming your talking about), i would cut a piece of scrap that was a certain size and then bend it in half. measure your legs after and you should have your stretch. makes some marks as reference on your piece before you bend to get an idea of where things are after the bend.

as far as getting the angle right, your going to have to do a couple test bends before hand because your going to have some spring back.

 

Yes, i get the stretch of the tubeing, and there is actually formula's for bend allowances so you can figure out the total length of a pipe before you start bending it. But what im more curious is how everyone here is marking where on the straight tube the center of the radious they are about to bend, and lining that up on the center line of the die they have.

I am using a pro-tools replica bender that i made as my final tool and die project in school, and we have a degree wheel on it. So we can make the bends fairly accuratly (degree wise) but placing the bend on the apropriate spot on the tubeing is that challenging part for us. Figuring out where the center of the radious you are about to bend, marking it on the tube and then lineing that up on the center of the die?? Does this make sense?

Ryan

 

So is your bender like the jd2 one? You dont line up the center of the bend when you do it on a rotary draw style bender. You line the tube up where the bend will begin. Go to tricktools.com and they have a bender formula cheat sheet. With that you can get the formula for figuring out how much material will be used in a bend per degree and with that you can figure out where the bend center will be because it gives you the location of the two tangents (ends of the bend). Or do it the easy way and cough up the money for bend tech software.

This is really hard to explain on the computer. Maybe if enough people ask, i will do a tutorial on how to figure this out and bend up stuff like you are asking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Janz99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, i get the stretch of the tubeing, and there is actually formula's for bend allowances so you can figure out the total length of a pipe before you start bending it. But what im more curious is how everyone here is marking where on the straight tube the center of the radious they are about to bend, and lining that up on the center line of the die they have.

I am using a pro-tools replica bender that i made as my final tool and die project in school, and we have a degree wheel on it. So we can make the bends fairly accuratly (degree wise) but placing the bend on the apropriate spot on the tubeing is that challenging part for us. Figuring out where the center of the radious you are about to bend, marking it on the tube and then lineing that up on the center of the die?? Does this make sense?

Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

which model bender? i'm thinking you just do the math and figure how much pipe you would need to bend what ever degree your looking for + the leg - the stretch. looks like all of the pro-tool units start on one side of the die, so you would start your bend at the end of the leg.

 

Here is a couple of pics that we took after we built the bender:







THe hardest part of the build:



And the first pipe I bent with it:




The bender is a replica of the pro-tools 105 bender. It works very well, like i said, im just having a hard time lining up where to make my bends, and then replicating this action over again. For example, if you wanted to make a roll bar. The first two bends that come down from the roof, how would you make sure that they are equal length away from the centerline of the bar? What do you line the pipe up on in relation to the bender? The tube clamp? is that the start of the bend?

Ryan