torn cv boots
My friend and I were changing my rotors today, and noticed both cv boots are torn. I haven't heard any clicking noises while turning yet. How long can i drive it until i get it fixed? how much you think itll cost? thanks! - Jaclyn
I don't know of places that wil fix torn cv boots anymore, mainly because it's more time consuming and costs just as much to replace the axles. My suggestion would be to get some axles at autozone or some auto parts store that comes with a life time warranty. Cause chances are since the cv boots are already torn, some damage has occured to the cv joints and isn't going to go away with new boots.
yea, once the grease in the boots gets contaminated or dried up you'll start hearing noises. And then there will be damage. I got new axles from advance auto for my accord (2nd car), they made noise for a awhile, then they got quite, me mech said it was because the bearings in the boots are different size than OEM and takes awhile for them to pack in. Or some story to that effect, i dont really remember what he said.
Lets us know what axles you use and how they turn out.
Lets us know what axles you use and how they turn out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonST »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know of places that wil fix torn cv boots anymore, mainly because it's more time consuming and costs just as much to replace the axles. My suggestion would be to get some axles at autozone or some auto parts store that comes with a life time warranty. Cause chances are since the cv boots are already torn, some damage has occured to the cv joints and isn't going to go away with new boots.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why would you fix torn cv boots? just buy new boots? those ball joints were a PITA though. yeah you should definitely do it asap.
why would you fix torn cv boots? just buy new boots? those ball joints were a PITA though. yeah you should definitely do it asap.
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My local Honda dealer and a different mechanic quoted me $175 to replace the boot on the passenger side. I still haven't done it and it's been driving okay for the last probably 4k+ miles without any noises or anything, but I'm going to get the whole axle replaced soon.
if you need to replace the boots, and you have money, you might as well replace the axles, advanced, or autozone carry them, sometimes they need to be ordered. after you take the cores back your lookin at about 150$ its not hard, if you have a lift/jackstands you can do both sides in about an hour. if you have to do each individual side one at a time, it will take you about an hour and a half.
i suggest loosening the axle nut while the wheels are on the ground.(torque spec. 180lbs+- depending on the year.) remove the horizontal strut fork bolt at the LCA(14mm? i think). the tie rod (17mm i think). and the LBJ (17mm?) it would help to have a ball joint seperator(you can use this for the tie rod if its stuck too, probably wont be though).remove the tie rod. leave the castle nut on the lbj and tap it out with a hammer.lift up on the spindle to fully remove the lbj.
at this point your tie rod,lbj,and strut fork bolts should be out.
try to pull your spindle away from the car to release the spindle end of the axle.if it doesnt come out without much work, you can use a deadblow hammer.be easy though .you dont want to mess up any splines.
large flathead screwdriver or smalll flat prybar. to help remove axles from tranny.(make sure you arent too rough and pull out seals.)if all goes well you should be able to pull out the axles. throw them in the box. and insert the new ones. and reverse the process i told you. make sure you torque the axle nuts on. if you dont have a torque bar. or cant borrow one. then make sure you crank on it hard. 180ftlbs isnt hard for me to get but iuno about you.
if you replace the axles, not just the boots. youll feel alot better about it. because sand, dirt, grit, anything really, can get inside those boots and start to wear away at your axle knuckles.
hope i helped. may have a noob title. but theres not much i caaaant do.
i suggest loosening the axle nut while the wheels are on the ground.(torque spec. 180lbs+- depending on the year.) remove the horizontal strut fork bolt at the LCA(14mm? i think). the tie rod (17mm i think). and the LBJ (17mm?) it would help to have a ball joint seperator(you can use this for the tie rod if its stuck too, probably wont be though).remove the tie rod. leave the castle nut on the lbj and tap it out with a hammer.lift up on the spindle to fully remove the lbj.
at this point your tie rod,lbj,and strut fork bolts should be out.
try to pull your spindle away from the car to release the spindle end of the axle.if it doesnt come out without much work, you can use a deadblow hammer.be easy though .you dont want to mess up any splines.
large flathead screwdriver or smalll flat prybar. to help remove axles from tranny.(make sure you arent too rough and pull out seals.)if all goes well you should be able to pull out the axles. throw them in the box. and insert the new ones. and reverse the process i told you. make sure you torque the axle nuts on. if you dont have a torque bar. or cant borrow one. then make sure you crank on it hard. 180ftlbs isnt hard for me to get but iuno about you.
if you replace the axles, not just the boots. youll feel alot better about it. because sand, dirt, grit, anything really, can get inside those boots and start to wear away at your axle knuckles.
hope i helped. may have a noob title. but theres not much i caaaant do.
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sweetpotato
Honda Prelude
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Aug 28, 2007 02:18 PM




