Tonight I was driving and I pulled over extremely faster 25-30 mph and I hit the curb with my front passenger side wheel. After all of this happened, the wheel rubs on the wheel well its so far back while the front left wheel is fine. Also, the fender was pushed a bit in, so as I opened my passenger door the fender is bent as seen in the picture. Is this an alignment problem? Did I ruin anything else? PLEASE HELP! THIS IS MY DD AND I REALLY NEED THIS PROBLEM DIAGNOSED ASAP TY EVERYBODY!

These pictures are with the spare tire as you can see, please, anybody, help me!







This is a 99 civic ex coupe btw.

 

Hitting a curb 25-30 mph hurts. You hit the curb really hard that the tire got pushed back into the fender. Your alignment is probably off now. Did you check if you crack your axel or anything?

 

Where would I check to see that? Would I just raise the car and look? If it isn't cracked does that mean the alignment just got messed up? Thanks so much

 

lower control arm might be bent "check it"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hotroddb8r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lower control arm might be bent "check it"</TD></TR></TABLE>

i usually see that a lot when accidents like that happen

 

How much would it cost to get it fixed?

 

Not much if you find an LCA at a junk yard and do it yourself. Usually 80 bucks.

Did your rim shatter?

 

The "hub-cap" did chip but the actual rim is in perfect condition. Assuming the axles broke how much would it be? I'm trying to figure out the worst case scenario...

P.S. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Screw the alignment, that LCA is probably in positions it was never intended to be in.

 

you can use a EG LCA if you cant find an integra LCA.

 

Hmm, alright. Thank you everybody I'm going to put the car on ramps tomorrow, and I pray to god nothing is severely damaged. I can only hope! I'll report back tomorrow, thanks everybody.

 

yes after i hit a curb, the wheel was shifted back towards the rear of the car 2 inches. replace the LCA. i got one from the junk yard for about 30 bonez.

 

Ok, thanks, this is starting to sound not that bad for my pockets. Is the install easy? Do I need any special tools or can I use my normal set? Is install time short? Thanks

 

You more than likely bent the front LCA and possibly the inner tie rod. It's very rare to bend the outer Tie-rod on a Honda. As for the axle, your best bet is to check the axle boots to see if they're torn, if they aren't then simply replace the lower control arm, take it to be aligned somewhere and the alignment specs will tell the tale of what else may be bent.

Best case scenario: $150-$200 for LCA and alignment, nothing else is bent + cost of tire.

Worst case scenario: $400-$500 for LCA, Inner tie rod, axle and alignment + cost of tire.

It's not likely, but possible that you hit it so hard to bend the shock tower or the strut itself. If you did, it may throw camber off slightly so you need to get the car to an alignment shop as soon as the new parts are on as the alignment specs will tell you the tale of any bent parts as Honda only has adjustable Toe front and rear from the factory on that year of civic. If the car is lowered the camber may be out of spec but it should still be within .4 of a degree on either side with a Cross-Camber of around .4 to -.4 Caster on hondas is 100% non adjustable unless you're using traction bars so it should be close to the same on both sides.

The alignment spec that is off right now is mainly caster, which is how far forward/back the wheel sits in the wheel well. It's most likely a bent front LCA which is not correctable with an alignment as it's not adjustable from the factory. You'd need to replace the entire front lower control arm.

-Froth

 

hand tools and muscle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djessenz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, thanks, this is starting to sound not that bad for my pockets. Is the install easy? Do I need any special tools or can I use my normal set? Is install time short? Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's pretty straight forward. Just have a breaker bar ready b/c some of those nuts can be on there pretty damn good after 10 years or whatever if it hasn't been changed.

You should only need your basic tools, pick an LCA up at a scrap yard, it's not worth buying one new, new rim (it's probably bent), and a 4 wheel alignment and you should be sittin pretty.

I would slide on under there and make sure your CV boots aren't torn / any axle damage.

 

Dont use a pickle fork to undo your lower ball joint if you plan on re-using it. Just take off the bolt all the way and hit the LCA in the locality of the ball joint with a hammer. Hard. A lot of times. It will vibrate loose. Dont hit the ball joint itself. Infact, thread the bolt on a few threads so you dont hit the ball joint.

clock your bushings when you put it back on.

The LCA to chassis, and LCA to shock bushings must be clocked. The bolts should only be tightened once the weight of the car is compressing the suspension. Either set the car down on a ramp or something so you can get underneath and tighten bolts with the car's weight on the suspension. Or jack up the LCA with a jack so that the weight of the car is fully on it. The car should come up off the jackstand before you tighten the bolts.

 

Thanks guys, so about the fender, is it easy to take off? What bolts are there besides the three visible ones on the edge of the hood?

 

theres a couple behind the headlight, two or three in the door jamb and one below the fender near the side skirt. take off your bumper, then take off the headlight, then remove the fenderliner then remove fender

 

I don't think I saw anyone mention it but replace your hub and bearing also. You don't want the possibility of a wheel flying off while driving after you fix it.

 

It is far more likely that you bent the front subframe where the lca attaches. If you replace the lca and your caster is still off that is what it is. It is pretty common for these to bend. Mine is bent right now. its like 400 something for a new one and I want new rather than one out of a junk yard because a jy one is probly bent too.

I replaced

upper baljoint
inner tie rod
lca
alignment
and It was still off so now I need front subframe/ cradle

 

Took some pics with the wheel off, will post them in a few minutes.

 

Here they are, i'm so afraid it's something extreme like tatmark1 stated, hopefully not.

 

YEP

 

Bump!


Tatmark1: Yep what?