spring rates
my mates got a civic eg (hatchback ) dedicated track car in the making and is wondering what spring rates to run ?
some events will be run using semi slick tyres ( toyo r888 and such like) and sum will be full slicks , now im assuming he will have to have a set of springs for each tyre type ?
also what is the differance between Kg and pounds , if i have 1 kg what is that equal to in pounds
regards - jack
some events will be run using semi slick tyres ( toyo r888 and such like) and sum will be full slicks , now im assuming he will have to have a set of springs for each tyre type ?
also what is the differance between Kg and pounds , if i have 1 kg what is that equal to in pounds
regards - jack
hello new guy, welcome to the boards.
This topic gets beat to death and there are probably 2 new threads a week with people asking what spring rates to run. Using the "SEARCH" function can help find all the info you will ever want to read. Since it looks like you are online right now, I'll help.
Research about:
Spring rates
Shocks
Koni
PIC
Sway Bars
Typically the hardcore Road race guys use anywhere from 500-1,200# spring rates in the front and the rear.. . What you use is dependant on your driving style and the courses you run. Experience plays a large key in the decision as well.
The typical USA setup is 550# - 850 # fronts with 800-1200# rears basically and typically use a 22mm or stiffer rear swaybar setup. Sometimes no front sway bar which is more common if you are running 650+ front rates on 92-00' Civics.
Shocks
Koni single and double adjustables
PIC performance
JRZ/MOTON
Buddy Club racing spec
Higher end Tein
Typical you can figure
8K = 450
10K = 550
12K = 660
14K = 770
16K = 880
18K = 1,000#
This topic gets beat to death and there are probably 2 new threads a week with people asking what spring rates to run. Using the "SEARCH" function can help find all the info you will ever want to read. Since it looks like you are online right now, I'll help.
Research about:
Spring rates
Shocks
Koni
PIC
Sway Bars
Typically the hardcore Road race guys use anywhere from 500-1,200# spring rates in the front and the rear.. . What you use is dependant on your driving style and the courses you run. Experience plays a large key in the decision as well.
The typical USA setup is 550# - 850 # fronts with 800-1200# rears basically and typically use a 22mm or stiffer rear swaybar setup. Sometimes no front sway bar which is more common if you are running 650+ front rates on 92-00' Civics.
Shocks
Koni single and double adjustables
PIC performance
JRZ/MOTON
Buddy Club racing spec
Higher end Tein
Typical you can figure
8K = 450
10K = 550
12K = 660
14K = 770
16K = 880
18K = 1,000#
I run 450 front 600 rear...
this is the upper limit using off-the-Shelf Koni yellows..
My EG handles great with this setup
when I can get some revalved shocks... I will run higher rates.
this is the upper limit using off-the-Shelf Koni yellows..
My EG handles great with this setup
when I can get some revalved shocks... I will run higher rates.
IMO, anything less that 550 up front is too soft if you are running R compound tires. That is with the stock sway bar as well. Too much lean/roll and dive under hard braking. Also if you don't watch your ride height, you can bottom out the shocks while corning which is really bad too!
650 is a good place to start if you plan on using 225/45 or 50/15 Toyo RA1s or R888s
650 is a good place to start if you plan on using 225/45 or 50/15 Toyo RA1s or R888s
Dave, I think you can experiment with higher rates on your car even without revalving your shocks. It will not be ideal, but I think you will still be faster on heavier springs for the tracks we typically run. When I ran OTS koni's, I ran 700/900 with no ill effects.
Within reason, don't let your valving dictate your spring rates, it should be the other way around.
Within reason, don't let your valving dictate your spring rates, it should be the other way around.
Yeah... I definetley need to get higher rates up front..
I put a little shock-travel indicator (tied a zip tie around the shaft) and I found out that I am at some point running on the bump stops in the front.... so I raised my car.... and now the rears are not hitting the bump stops... but the fronts still are...
On the ground they are not sitting on the bumpstops...
I't don't feel them bottoming out.. but I would feel much better about not not touching the bump stops at all.
On the other hand I don't like my car riding 6" off the ground... I have very little camber....around -1 degree
I suppose I could buy some 800 or 900 lb springs for the rear, and move my 600 to the front.
I was just afriad of the OTS konis dying prematurely....
I put a little shock-travel indicator (tied a zip tie around the shaft) and I found out that I am at some point running on the bump stops in the front.... so I raised my car.... and now the rears are not hitting the bump stops... but the fronts still are...
On the ground they are not sitting on the bumpstops...
I't don't feel them bottoming out.. but I would feel much better about not not touching the bump stops at all.
On the other hand I don't like my car riding 6" off the ground... I have very little camber....around -1 degree
I suppose I could buy some 800 or 900 lb springs for the rear, and move my 600 to the front.
I was just afriad of the OTS konis dying prematurely....
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STN_Pat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they have a lifetime warranty right ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not when you got them from a friend who got them from friend.... and sold them dirt cheap to me
I do want to revalve them... it's just on the low side of the totem pole..
</TD></TR></TABLE>Not when you got them from a friend who got them from friend.... and sold them dirt cheap to me
I do want to revalve them... it's just on the low side of the totem pole..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not when you got them from a friend who got them from friend.... and sold them dirt cheap to me
I do want to revalve them... it's just on the low side of the totem pole..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is why you need to buy my set of Koni 80 Series RACE shocks. SPSS3 valved and I already have 650/850 # hypercoils on them
$1,000
They are listed in the FS section of the RR/Autox Forum
Not when you got them from a friend who got them from friend.... and sold them dirt cheap to me
I do want to revalve them... it's just on the low side of the totem pole..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is why you need to buy my set of Koni 80 Series RACE shocks. SPSS3 valved and I already have 650/850 # hypercoils on them
$1,000 They are listed in the FS section of the RR/Autox Forum
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To add another data point.
I am running an EG hatch.
I am running 750/1000 rates.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what shocks are you running on?
I am running an EG hatch.
I am running 750/1000 rates.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what shocks are you running on?
I ran 750/850 on my STS EG with SPSS3 rears and custom valved sports up front. After that, I moved to 900/1000 on 2812's. I used a GSR/ITR front bar with a jdm 23mm rear bar. That was just barely enough spring rate for street tires and my 3.75" ride height on smooth surfaces. The car actually bottomed out when it was on the trailer being towed to events.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what shocks are you running on?</TD></TR></TABLE>
JIC FLT-A2 RS
what shocks are you running on?</TD></TR></TABLE>
JIC FLT-A2 RS
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
exgr
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
18
Oct 29, 2010 02:14 PM





