I have a 92 DA, Which is my DD/track toy. What is there that I could do to make sure that the motor last as long as I can get it to? (The next motor that is.)

And where would you suggest to have a motor rebuilt? (in Sol-Cal)

 

Oh, And i would like to know. Could I use a B18c1 short block with the rest of the parts from my B18a1.
Would the stock ECU be able to cope with the jump form 9:1 to 10.6:1 with just better gas?
ls/vtec has made c1 short blocks cheap and easy to get.

 

get some sort of managment and then you wont have to worry.
keep the valves adjusted and keep oil in the thing and itll last a while.
don't spin rediculous high revs for no reason.
buy a morosso road race steel oil pan.

 

ABOVE AND BEYOND all else, a baffled oil pan as LO-Buck EF said. Especially if your running on slicks. You could have alot of fun without alot of power, but you cant have any fun with a rod hanging out of your block.

 

I get my motors built by ASRparts.com
He works with Joe Alaniz and that is who does my head work.
You can contact him on AIM. ASRTECH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkb18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ABOVE AND BEYOND all else, a baffled oil pan</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was the first thing that went on to the list.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkb18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Especially if your running on slicks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I run Yokohama AVS ES100 UHP street tires. I get about 13,000 miles out of a set.
I don't have the money for stickys. But that’s ok, The name of the game is car control.
I like controlling a car at the limit, it doesn’t matter so much to me how low or high the limit is.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkb18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could have alot of fun without alot of power,</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anything more than 20hp more than I have is more than i want.
I'm good with the power I have, no more really needed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some sort of managment and then you wont have to worry.
keep the valves adjusted and keep oil in the thing and itll last a while.
don't spin rediculous high revs for no reason.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was this about the B18c1/a1?
So you think the stock ECU wouldn’t work well? Don’t have the money for an ECU.
I don't need any more RPM, The header only works really well from about 4,000-6'500
The 6,850 stock redline is fine with me.
From what I have heard and seen, bad things happen about 8,400rpm with the stock a1/b1 head.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I get my motors built by ASRparts.com
He works with Joe Alaniz and that is who does my head work.
You can contact him on AIM. ASRTECH
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks.

 

What we do for the entry level basic motors is..

block - Honed, rotating assembly is balanced, new rings, and bearings

Head- decked and just make sure everything is to spec ( we typically do a mild clean up for port work but it isnt required)

To me thats the bare minimum but atleast make sure you have a really good oil in the motor and let it warm up before you even think about moving. We have a race motor in a miata and its lasted 3 seasons with a TON of races , a 13 hour, and 24 hour race and is still close to as fresh as it was the day it was built ( within a couple of hp).

if you dont have the money to get some form of ECU atleast get an ADJ. fuel pressure regulator and spend a little time on a dyno to make sure your A/F ratio isnt bad. this is a cheap way to tune the car and it helps with the reliability factor.

a baffled oil pan is a must. but you dont ness. have to go spend a bunch of money on a oil pan. there is kits and tricks of making your own if you want to save some money. Ive run the Canton kit or made my own more times than I can count.

hope it helps!
CJ

 

What do the guys that run the Honda challenge do for longevity insurance?
And is there anything that would do for longevity insurance that they cant do?

 

Not sure if the others just didn't notice.... but you're talking about a b18c1 "shortblock" combined w/ the head off of your b18a? Thats not going to work, and even if you did make it would sorta be like having the "worst of two worlds".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Colin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"worst of two worlds".</TD></TR></TABLE>

??
More info would be nice.

From the specs the c1 seems to be a much better short block. It's stiffer, better balanced, and stronger, Than the 1a/b1.
It has oil vanes that squirt the pistons for better cooling and lubrication, Witch the a1/b1 does not.

How could that be worse than a stock a1?

 

People started doing the ls/vtec because in their eyes it was a way to get the "best of both worlds". By that I mean:
1) The extra gain from vtec
2) The extra displacement from a b18a/b bottom end

First of all, the b18a/b head is not meant to bolt onto the b18c block. When you put a vtec head onto a non vtec block there are oil passage issues you have to deal with. I imagine you'll have similar issues when going the opposite direction, issues that may or may not be easily overcome.

Second of all, the b18c bottom end will give you less displacement than the b18a bottom end.

Third, what's the point anyway? If you're running a stock b18a head, then a stock b18a block is fine, the extra revs capable w/ the b18c block aren't able to be used anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CarFreek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, And i would like to know. Could I use a B18c1 short block with the rest of the parts from my B18a1.
Would the stock ECU be able to cope with the jump form 9:1 to 10.6:1 with just better gas?
ls/vtec has made c1 short blocks cheap and easy to get.</TD></TR></TABLE>

************************************************** ******
Honda is one of the BEST motor builders in the world
Keeping a motor stock.. and not messing with it is cheap insurance.
************************************************** ******

These motors run 200,000+ miles..and quite a few people have had a lot of luck running junkyard motors.

Very few people can build motors as good as honda....choose your builder wisely.

 

This is not something Im set on doing, Just something I've been thinking about for a wile.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Colin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Second of all, the b18c bottom end will give you less displacement than the b18a bottom end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking that the jump from 9:1 to 10.6:1 would more than make up for a 37cc drop.
Would it not?
I was thinking of longevity not power or more RPM.
Would a stiffer, better balanced, and stronger Bottom end with oil vanes that squirt the pistons not make for better longevity?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Colin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all, the b18a/b head is not meant to bolt onto the b18c block. When you put a vtec head onto a non vtec block there are oil passage issues you have to deal with. I imagine you'll have similar issues when going the opposite direction, issues that may or may not be easily overcome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the kinda info I was looking for.
Thanks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

************************************************** ******
Honda is one of the BEST motor builders in the world
Keeping a motor stock.. and not messing with it is cheap insurance.
************************************************** ******

These motors run 200,000+ miles..and quite a few people have had a lot of luck running junkyard motors.

Very few people can build motors as good as Honda....choose your builder wisely.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That I know well. I got 214k out of my stock a1 and it could have lasted longer.
( oil starvation did it in )
And I just put a 2nd a1 in my car last Friday.