Okay I just got my car back from the shop. It has some issues that will be taken care of over time, but my main concern for today is that the radiator fan is not working, but is smoking instead. The fan does not come one, and it creates smoke. There is also a fishy ssmell in the air as well, so It might have to do with the radiator itself, but Idk. Looking for opinons on the mater.

Okay here is an updataed list of questions I have.

1. How can you tell if Vtec Engages
2. Can the car be driven with a broke radiator fan?
3. How can I check the manual transmission fluid without using a lift.
4. There is a slight bog at times.
5. When I got the car in 3rd gear over 5k rpm the CEL light comes on.

More to come, thanks for your help


Modified by Acidcrakker at 3:36 PM 11/20/2007

 

What do you mean the radiator fan is smoking?

 

Its smoking, like a light smoke. And Im pretty sure I just went out and made sure that was the problem. I unplugged the Radiator fan and the smoke dissappeard.

I believed it might be wired wrong.

Dangers of Driving around with out the radiator fan?

 

Also Im not 100 percent sure that the guy working on my car put transmission fluid in the transmission.

1 guy said no, and the other guy said yeah. How can I check this. I know that it has to be on level ground to check, but if I put it on a jack it wont be level.

 

You can check it from the top. Just take the intake off, and you'll juuuust be able to loosen the filler bolt, get a piece of paper towl and see if it gets wet when you stick it in

Just don't let it break off in there.

The fan thing definitely sounds like a wiring problem, have you messed with that since it worked last?

The smoke could just be antifreeze leaking from somewhere and smoking when the thing is getting hot...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can check it from the top. Just take the intake off, and you'll juuuust be able to loosen the filler bolt, get a piece of paper towl and see if it gets wet when you stick it in </TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The fan thing definitely sounds like a wiring problem, have you messed with that since it worked last?..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah the wiring was done by someone else. I just plugged everything in where I thought it went.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The smoke could just be antifreeze leaking from somewhere and smoking when the thing is getting hot...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well Im 100 percent its the fan. It dont come on at all, and when I unplugged it the smoke went away.
Is it safe to say that the car will be fine with a non-working fan

 

During this time of year, most likely, yes. But, if it starts to get too hot, crank the heat up, if it continues to get hotter, cut it and give it a minute to cool.

 

okay. How would I know if the transmission is out of fluid? That bolt is on there hard as hell. Im assuming someone used an airgun to put that bolt on last. Would I be able to drive for about 10 miles problem free, or if there was no fluid in there would it break real quick?

 

Shifting would feel rough as hell, if it shifted at all, and you'd be risking trashing the whole thing. DONT DRIVE IT.

 

Well as an update. There was Transmission fluid in it. Perhaps to much, Cause when I got the bolt off, it came pouring out.

Thank GOD, cause I would of been in some deep Shi* had it not been.

How long should it take the motor itself to break in. It was made in 93 and GOD knows how long it has sat for. Its kinda ruff at idol.

Also the oil is pitch black. I had previously dumped 3 quarts of some prestone in to see a change, and there was nothing. Im gonna do a bunch of oil changes but I dont know exactly how long I should wait inbetween changes, seeing as how I do beleive that the oil should mix together for a while

 

youll know when vtec engages.....

 

the fishy smell is coolant coolant.. as for the fan not being hooked up right.. look into the wire diagram, ill give em to you later if u need. but there's no problem running without a radiator fan if your cars running properly and u dont live in texas or w/e lol.
oh and make sure u have header wrap or a heatshield at least if you're running fanless.. thats what really heats everything up.

 

I think It might work, but really havent given it much thought. It engages at 5600 rpms right?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22Honda98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youll know when vtec engages.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also as of right now it runs pretty crappy. The guys at the shop said that it was the set of spark plugs and the spark plug wires. IDK. Im gonna have to invest some time into this. I believe that it had more acceleration with the h23.

Also there is a slight lag at times, when I give it gas. What could be the meaning of this.

Another thing, it throws a CEL light in 3rd gear around 5k rpms. But turns off when you restart the car. How can I check what code its throwing. I know its something with the blinking lights but Im unsure how its done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. How can you tell if Vtec Engages
2. Can the car be driven with a broke radiator fan?
3. How can I check the manual transmission fluid without using a lift.
4. There is a slight bog at times.
5. When I got the car in 3rd gear over 5k rpm the CEL light comes on.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. there should be a noticeable change in the pitch of the engine and the car should pull harder.
2. Yes but not advisable. If nothing else wire up a toggle switch and run it like that if you cannot figure out the problem. If you need a new fan I can send you one off my parts car for shipping.
3. already taken care of
4. Could be ignition timing. could be clogged injectors, bad plugs, wires,dirty cap and/or rotor button. Could be lots of things. I would start with a good tune up and oil change.
5. What is the cel? that could be the cause of the bogging.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slamdlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. there should be a noticeable change in the pitch of the engine and the car should pull harder.
2. Yes but not advisable. If nothing else wire up a toggle switch and run it like that if you cannot figure out the problem. If you need a new fan I can send you one off my parts car for shipping.
3. already taken care of
4. Could be ignition timing. could be clogged injectors, bad plugs, wires,dirty cap and/or rotor button. Could be lots of things. I would start with a good tune up and oil change.
5. What is the cel? that could be the cause of the bogging.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. It already sounds like its running rugged. Im gonna have to get a media clip up.
2. Toggle Switch Is what I was thinking, it just has positive and negative terminals right?
3. Thank God
4. Im gonna work over the next 2 weeks to figure that out, the timing belt was just replaced, Injectors will be replaced, alone with Plugs and wires. Cap and rotor should be good, it was good when it was on the H23,but the mechanic took it apart for some unknown reason, and im gonna change the oil in 100 miles.
5. Im gonna have to get that cell light to come on but prob when I have time to
play with it, right now its time for cheese steak and moziralla sticks

Also how can I jump that thing to make it blink?

 

yeah you will know when vtec engages no questions listen and feel around 5200 rpms on the tach. does you boggin occur at certain rpms? or just random times? flash the ecu for the codes to see what check engine it threw and go from there for that one. to flash get a paper clip and stick it in the blue test plug behind cd player then put car on acc. 1 long blink = 10 1 short blink = 1 add em up and report back.

 

Okay Im going to atemp to pull that code now. But heres the thing, do you think that I will be able to pull the code. Reason being, it only pops on around 5k rpm, and then when you shut the car off and restart it the code is clear.

Would a faulty Vtec cause that to happen.

 

I got a code 12

Its EGR

 

does your fan spin if you touch power to it or is it seized up?

 

I've also got a code 1.

Well the fan is unhooked for now. I have to test it when I get more time to play with it, probally thursday or friday. If it dont work, then I need a new one, if it does work, its getting hooked up to a toogle switch.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baselude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does your fan spin if you touch power to it or is it seized up?</TD></TR></TABLE>


So I got a code 1 which is oxygen sensor #1
Code 12 which is EGR

Okay Where should I go from here.

Update on Code 1

Code 1 is the oxygen Sensor in my downpipe. Now before I did the swap it was fine, nothing at all. What does the Oxygen Sensor in the downpipe exactly read?
It has a 2" Outlet on it,should I just get it fabbed up to a 2.5 would that stop it from throwing the code


Modified by Acidcrakker at 10:14 PM 11/20/2007

The power of the search button is great, just very time consuming.

Code 12 says that its the EGR, and that it mostly Needs to be cleaned out. So in order to fully do that I would have to unbolt the intake mani, clean it out good and reinstall that?

Does that sound about right?

And do you think that Code 12 and Code 1 are together. So If I clean out the intake mani both codes will go away.


Modified by Acidcrakker at 10:22 PM 11/20/2007

 

Check the vacuum lines to the EGR valve, easy to screw up, i did, and it idled like CRAP until i figured out that I had a couple of lines flipped

 

Anyone with a Vaccum chart. I dont have a helms for h22a and probally wont for a month or so.

 

Just sign on at Honda Hookup and all these manuals are free:
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/

also.. the EGR just has two bolts that hold it onto the top of the IM... no need to take the IM off. I just had to take mine off and it's a pain. you might also just need a new EGR gasket or to spray it out with carb cleaner/brakleen.

 

Okay guys, Im taking my time with this for now, the main thing is it runs.

Couple of questions

1. I did some minor work today on the car. Switched Fuel injector resistors. Swapped the h22a resistor for the h23. That should be okay, a good source told me they are the same. Anyone else know off the top of your head?

2. For the vaccum, part, while installing I broke one of the Selonids on the TB. Its the one that sits on the bottom of the intake mani. Now I just broke off the part that connects the selonid to Vac hose. I was able to melt it back on. But its prob a crappy connection. Any thoughts on that?

 

The resistor boxes are the exact same.

That box controls the IABs, you should be able to find another one for cheap.