I know the ls piston have a lower comp. and I have some blown pistons so I was wondering if I could put these piston in a b16a2. Any info would be appreciated.

 

It would lower the compression of the piston about a whole point.

 

So your saying there will be no problems putting the pistons on the rods and the piston wont stick out of the block at tdc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sr420Det &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know the ls piston have a lower comp. and I have some blown pistons so I was wondering if I could put these piston in a b16a2. Any info would be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

DO IT, thats the setup i have, i fukin love it, it can take a lot abuse since it drops the compression pretty low, on 91octane pump gas i made 317whp and 240tq on 14psi, ive run as high as 25psi on this set up on 91 octane with zero knock. i lost a little spool but picked up A LOT of traction

you just have to have an ems of some sort, cause you got to give it more timing and lean it out a bit to make good power. id me more than happy to share my info with you if you go with this set up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninesecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It would lower the compression of the piston about a whole point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

err you mean 2 points? b16a with pr4 piston and stock hg gives you 8.58:1

 

i fitted pistons out of b18c4 (same as the c1) to my b16a2 rods when i crack the ringlands. had to machine down the small end of the conrod to fit in the piston, was cheapest option for me at the time. been running fine for 12months now, 8.99ish : 1 compression i think.

 

So this is B16a Block with B18B (PR4) pistons on B16a Rods ?

Blinxx9900 more info please!! This is the setup we plan to go with any info would be greatly appreciated. We are on a budget if you can even call it that LOL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steven_highet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So this is B16a Block with B18B (PR4) pistons on B16a Rods ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steven_highet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Blinxx9900 more info please!! This is the setup we plan to go with any info would be greatly appreciated. We are on a budget if you can even call it that LOL.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont worry i know what you mean about the budget thing, my original goal was to fix a effed up block with a $200 budget so i know how it goes, i'll be more than happy to share any info you like even the tunning of the low cr motor, just lmk what info you'd like to know

 

Blinx did you have to modify the pistons or rods in anyway? Or did you just take em to the macine shop and have em switch out the pr3's for the pr4's and does it matter which integra motor they come from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sr420Det &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Blinx did you have to modify the pistons or rods in anyway? Or did you just take em to the macine shop and have em switch out the pr3's for the pr4's and does it matter which integra motor they come from?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no modifying needed, just took them to a machine shop to have them pressed on to the b16a rods, i got mine from a 94-01 inegra LS, i actually have an extra set cause i ended up going overbore, pm me if interested.

 

I wonder why you dont hear more about this mod? For a long time I was tring to find a lower comp aftermarket piston but with no luck. Thanks blitz for all the info, Steven has got a set he's going to sell me so Im good there. I thought u said you were running these pistons for a while and then you said you overbored the block so did you just use oversized aftermarket pistons?

 

Big Ups Blinx9900 some good info to put out there!! Much Appreciated!! You have breathed new life into our cash strapped motor!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sr420Det &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder why you dont hear more about this mod? </TD></TR></TABLE>

cause everybody bandwagons and think high compression+boost is sooo cool but i live in CA we only have 91 octane, and low cr with high boost makes more power on pump gas than a high cr low boost set up any day of the week IMO. like ive said i ran 25psi on this set up on 91octane with 20 degrees of timing and 12.0 air fuel with zero knock. but normally its driven at 14.5psi for longevity sake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sr420Det &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I thought u said you were running these pistons for a while and then you said you overbored the block so did you just use oversized aftermarket pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i originally had a b16b with 10.8CR i melted a piston on 10psi and was left motorless a friend of mine had a spare b16a shortblock with bad pistons, i was soo put off by the idea of how my high CR boost motor blew up with minimal abuse that i decided to go extreme on the other direction and just do a super low compression setup using LS pistons, first i ordered stock honda 81mm pr4 pistons but the the machine shop said i should overbore the block so then i got 81.5mm pr4 pistons, thats why i have an extra set. with my pistons and headgasket im actually at 8.3:1 stock hg yeilds 8.58:1.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steven_highet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Big Ups Blinx9900 some good info to put out there!! Much Appreciated!! You have breathed new life into our cash strapped motor!</TD></TR></TABLE>
ty for the praise

the advice i would give to someone building this set up:

-dont think 7psi is gonna cut it, this set up needs (and likes) at least 12psi to get going, a lot of timing and a lean a/f which is something most turbo honda's dont like due to there higher compression.

-also at those higher boost levels the 6" tall intercooler most of us run isent gonna cut it, you need something at least 10-12inches tall to cool that incoming air. at first when i did this set up, i kept turning up the boost cause it felt so slow, then i realized my IAT's were 135-145 degrees! my intercooler wasent cutting it, i upgraded to a much larger core, turned down the boost to 14.5 (down from 18) and it felt MUCH better/faster/smoother and iat's dropped to 90-100.

-i also upgraded my radiator fan cause i was giving the car so much timing it was running a tad hot, i previously had a 650cfm 10" slimfan, i upgraded to a 1360cfm 5blade spal 11" fan and now my water temps are low too

-i also had to run heat range 8 plugs (before i had 7). i had to reduce the gap even more than usual, i believe i gapped the 8's at .024" cause the boost was blowing out the spark and causing a missfire... thats all i can think of for now, i will post more info if i can think of any.


Modified by blinx9900 at 11:23 PM 11/20/2007


Modified by blinx9900 at 11:26 PM 11/20/2007

 

Thanks for the info. I will be running in excess of 12 psi simply because the mani wont hold boost any lower. I have a huge ebay intercooler that frickin sticks out on the bottom of the bumper. Im about to get the plugs hopefully ngk copper, your running two stages cooler than stock correct? This is the third motor I've had where either the piston melted or ringlands broke so I will defintily be adjusting the timing cause I think that and the plugs is what did it every time, oh yeah and I beat the **** out of my motors. It always blew around 130-140mph. We have been gapping the plugs around .025. If you could give me the part number for the plugs your using that would be great (I know there is a thread on here but I dont feel like searching). Is there anyway I could get these from a local autoparts store. I have called everyone and they dont seem to know what Im talking about. One person said they had them but then when I went up there they where just stock plugs. Now that fan your talking about will probably have to wait to spring but I'l make sure I keep an eye on those coolent temps. Thanks again

 

Yeah brett make a note to yourself 130 - 140mph = BOOOOM. Play nicely on the next one.

 

Shut your hole nOOb

 

J/J you know I love you, even though I cant help that your always sitting in the passanger seat encouraging me

 

R5671A-8 you can get them from http://www.sparkplugs.com/resu...5&y=4

or i can get you a set from a local shop, i think they sell them for $20 shipped if that website dosent stock them.

also what brand gas are you using? ive noticed chevron and mobil are the lease knock prone. NO arco/valero/cheapgas. but yeah this plug i run has a shorter tip so it reduces the chance of being blown out and missing. also gap em to .024 i was previously at .026 and it was blowing out. you mind if i ask what your using for ems? whats your ign set at on the top end, a/f etc? 130-140 mph is 5th gear which means your motors been under stress for a while at that point and fifth is a long gear so im not surprised thats where your blowing up, if you can at least get a set of forged pistons and run stock rods, that will help you A LOT, thats what i wanted to do but simply put i just didnt have the $$. lmk that ems stuff though

 

I always run the most expensive 93 oct in town which is shell. We did run into the problem with the spark blowing out and we fixed it by lowering the gap cant quit remember what it was I think .030. I have a s300 and am using the base ignition map for a turbo b16, I then did an autotune for the fuel map (besides up top which was sticking around 11.0-11.5. I have had forged pistons and rods those are the ones that melted (I was going very fast with three people in the car and it actually lasted like 2 days before it finally went). I was running max 18pds with the forged stuff and 12pds with the stockers. Both my stock pistons cracked. Which we havnt torn it apart to see whats up but Im sure its the rings or ringlands. I havnt really seen any forged pistons that attach to factory rods but Ive only looked for cast pistons that attach to eagle rods lol. I'll see if steven can upload the ign. map for me so you guys can check it out cause it'l probably take me an hour to do it. Do you think the plugs had alot to do with it? I also think some oil was getting through at the turbo but it wasnt too too bad, no puddles or dumb sh t like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sr420Det &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always run the most expensive 93 oct in town which is shell. We did run into the problem with the spark blowing out and we fixed it by lowering the gap cant quit remember what it was I think .030. I have a s300 and am using the base ignition map for a turbo b16, I then did an autotune for the fuel map (besides up top which was sticking around 11.0-11.5. I have had forged pistons and rods those are the ones that melted (I was going very fast with three people in the car and it actually lasted like 2 days before it finally went). I was running max 18pds with the forged stuff and 12pds with the stockers. Both my stock pistons cracked. Which we havnt torn it apart to see whats up but Im sure its the rings or ringlands. I havnt really seen any forged pistons that attach to factory rods but Ive only looked for cast pistons that attach to eagle rods lol. I'll see if steven can upload the ign. map for me so you guys can check it out cause it'l probably take me an hour to do it. Do you think the plugs had alot to do with it? I also think some oil was getting through at the turbo but it wasnt too too bad, no puddles or dumb sh t like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you should not be blowing up with 18psi and forged internals, what was your CR? and i dont mean to be a dick but i consider shell garbage gas, chevron or mobil only for me your air/fuel is fine, the only problem with oil is if its getting in the combustion chamber it WILL cause detonation. also what are your water temps at? your IAT's etc... if you have a super high iat and a hot motor + oil in the combustion chamber **** certainly can start to go wrong. i dont think plugs are a problem but reading them can tell you if your running too lean, im running my current set up right now at like 12.0 a/f with 14.5psi and the motor loves it. but the main problem i see is at the end of the day your on a base map + auto tune which isent a good thing imo. the **** needs to be tuned properly, we spent HOURS tuning my car to get it fast and safe. what size turbo do you have?

 

Damn I wrote a whole reply and wasnt logged in, oh well. I had 81.5mm srp's with 9.1 cr, eagle rods, and a posted block. I have a s300 with innovative wideband wired into it. The shell is the most expensive gas in my town and the only gas station I halfway trust. We have a bunch of cheapy places like savemore, sphinx, liberty, and some mom and pop places. We also have bp, amico, exxon, and shell. The sphinx has a pump for 95 oct but I once purchased bad gas from that pump when the b16 was N/A. It was a pretty cool night when I blew it so I dont think iat or ect's had anything to do with it. I have a crap ebay t3/t4 with a .57 trim that I will be replacing shortly. Or I might send it off and get garrett internals install for around $250. I have access to a dyno just havnt had the money to get it tuned. I promised myself I would take it easy until I got a tune but then steven had to egg me on lol. At least the last one went when I was killing a srt4 on I95. It stills runs today just smokes like crazy so we should be breaking things apart this weekend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you should not be blowing up with 18psi and forged internals, what was your CR? and i dont mean to be a dick but i consider shell garbage gas, chevron or mobil only for me your air/fuel is fine, the only problem with oil is if its getting in the combustion chamber it WILL cause detonation. also what are your water temps at? your IAT's etc... if you have a super high iat and a hot motor + oil in the combustion chamber **** certainly can start to go wrong. i dont think plugs are a problem but reading them can tell you if your running too lean, im running my current set up right now at like 12.0 a/f with 14.5psi and the motor loves it. but the main problem i see is at the end of the day your on a base map + auto tune which isent a good thing imo. the **** needs to be tuned properly, we spent HOURS tuning my car to get it fast and safe. what size turbo do you have?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to be a dick, but what you consider to be "garbage gas" is well documented and proven to be the best readily available pump gas. I have seen things years back, but most recently top gear did a test; shell came out on top. My own test: B16, eagles, wisecos. 23,000 miles of 400+ whp @19psi. 12.1@122 on street tires. Nothing but shell 93 octane has been through here.

If your tune(and every other component) is spot on then you can get away with sustained high rpm/heat that comes with 5th gear pulls. If you are on a basemap, I would plan on that motor blowing up everytime at 140 mph.

 

Thanks for the input. You get what you pay for and the shell is by far the most expensive.
I like your avatar lol, it looks fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerofdreams8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not to be a dick, but what you consider to be "garbage gas" is well documented and proven to be the best readily available pump gas. I have seen things years back, but most recently top gear did a test; shell came out on top. My own test: B16, eagles, wisecos. 23,000 miles of 400+ whp @19psi. 12.1@122 on street tires. Nothing but shell 93 octane has been through here.

If your tune(and every other component) is spot on then you can get away with sustained high rpm/heat that comes with 5th gear pulls. If you are on a basemap, I would plan on that motor blowing up everytime at 140 mph.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i appologise, i should not have been so quick to jump the gun, allow me to explain:

i live in CA, our shell is 91 octane all our gas is 91 octane so im sure my shell 91 is nothing compared to the shell 93 that you guys have, my judgements are based solely on my experience with gasoline in california and i should have said that. my opinion is based on working with the various ems's like aemems/hydra/evoscan/etc... i worked for a tuner and i was the guy who road tests the cars and pulls the logs, and i always read them to see what is doing what, and what changes had what effect etc... anyways i personally noticed that the shell (and arco/76/valero) in ca or at least in my area sucks, and is more likely to knock than chevron or mobil in my area, i even asked my bossman and he agreed saying that he always had to pull some timing when a car was run on shell/valero/arco/76 compared to chevron or mobile, weve tuned all cars like supras/evo/sti/civics/etc... and all had the same outcome, thats what my opinion is based on, i know its true cause i saw it first hand, but i should not have assumed it was a nation wide thing

 

Damn dude your cool. I know, well I assumed that you havnt had any experiance over in NC so its cool.
I really appreciate your help and we are doing the work tomarrow so I may need you again. I dont know for sure that it is the best, it just cost the most and one of my buddies recommended it. We all know that Im a fool and in great need of a tune. I well definitly be taking it easy until tax time so I can get this beast tuned. Once I get a real job I'll be able to build a real beast. I already have the block to do it with.

 

Well man we finally got to work today and as usual we found some more problems. The # 3 piston ringland is gone but all the others seemed fine. The cylinder walls also appeared to be in good shape. The turbo is blowing way too much oil and it has to be replaced or rebuilt, which we will probably do the latar. The manifold also has a huge crack in it and it absolutly has to be replaced. I have already ordered a manifold but I think the guy I bought it from is trying to sh t me. And the best for last: we found 2 10mm bolts in the oil pan, one had been chewed up and it came off of the pickup the other looked fine but I couldnt find where it came from.
We have discussed the oil from the turbo and dont think it had much to do with the lands breaking. So I'll be putting the ls pistons on this week and ordering a few parts.