i punched out a hole threw the cat converter and a week later the check engine light came on its probaly the o2 sensor is this bad or normal

 

Why did you put a hole through your catalytic converter??

 

my dumbass thought it would be a cheap way to get a high flow cat i live in alabama and we dont get pollution test

 

Well congratulations.....you just created an exhaust leak. That's probably what your CEL is all about.

 

is it limited to that or can this cause more problems down the road it was only a small hole the same size as the pipe going out if i dissconect the battery it goes away for a while

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by badcarters &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it limited to that or can this cause more problems down the road it was only a small hole the same size as the pipe going out if i dissconect the battery it goes away for a while</TD></TR></TABLE>

I honestly don't know. When my car threw a CEL after putting on my RH the dealer told me it would cause the car to run too rich. But I heard from other people that the MAF sensor is supposed to compensate for the added exhaust flow.

But I don't know the details. Hopefully someone else can chime in and help you out a little more.

I do know however that you won't pass your state inspection with an exhaust leak.....unless they won't check that.

 

wow...i would say you should fix that unless you want your new car to have a CEL forever. buy a stock one or buy a real high flow cat. a hole the size of your piping is not a small hole unless i'm thinking of the wrong pipe.

your CEL goes away after you disconnect the battery for a while because you have reset the ECU. thats why it eventually comes back.

 

iam not really getting this did you put a hole throught the side of your cat or throught the center of the catalyist (internels of the cat)????

 

okay so lesson learned.
Punching holes in very expensive brand new cats=not good.
I'd take it back to the dealership and say you ran over something and a check engine light came on. As long as you're under your warranty of course. If not then it sucks to be you.
You'd obviously be lying your *** off, but if you don't want to kick some major money for a new one yourself that will be the only way to get rid of the cel.
I wouldn't keep disconnecting your battery. The cel isn't going anywhere. Hope you performed the idle learn when you disconnected it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hard charging 929 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay so lesson learned.
Punching holes in very expensive brand new cats=not good.
I'd take it back to the dealership and say you ran over something and a check engine light came on. As long as you're under your warranty of course. If not then it sucks to be you.
You'd obviously be lying your *** off, but if you don't want to kick some major money for a new one yourself that will be the only way to get rid of the cel.
I wouldn't keep disconnecting your battery. The cel isn't going anywhere. Hope you performed the idle learn when you disconnected it.
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I'm afraid that's not going to work. Any half-decent mechanic would be able to tell whether a hole was caused by impact damage or if it was cleanly drilled.

 

when you say the idle learning....what are you exactly refering to?
does it have something to do with problems ive had like super sensitive throttle pedal?
my car is very jerky, like i dont know how to drive stick even if im super light on the throttle, it jerks....im guessing with your idle learn comment...

 

You could always buy an RT high flow cat. It is a real replacement, flows better and will get rid of the CEL. Essentially it is doing what you tried to do (get more flow in your exhaust) but the right way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RICO_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm afraid that's not going to work. Any half-decent mechanic would be able to tell whether a hole was caused by impact damage or if it was cleanly drilled.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear what you're saying but, it really doesn't matter. If it's under warranty and he says he hit something they will replace it. It's not costing the dealership anything and the tech is still gonna get paid from American Honda so they'll replace it. Atleast at the dealer i'm at we do **** like that all the time.
If you dispute it with the customer they call American Honda and it gets ugly for the dealership you get a bad survey from the customer, which managers don't like cause it hurts the numbers. American Honda says replace it cause it's under warranty. That's why dealers will skip all that drama **** and just replace the cat.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misterghost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you say the idle learning....what are you exactly refering to?
does it have something to do with problems ive had like super sensitive throttle pedal?
my car is very jerky, like i dont know how to drive stick even if im super light on the throttle, it jerks....im guessing with your idle learn comment...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The idle learn process is simply that. It lets the computer learn the idle. Not doing it can affect the fuel mileage, high idle, most likely the problem you're talking about. Just disconnect your battery. Let it sit for a minute. Reconnect it and turn the vehicle on. Turn off all loads, radios, close the doors, etc. and let it idle for 10 minutes or so.
Should be good after that. Basically it's gotta get to normal operating temperature. Thermostat has to open up, radiator fan comes on and it goes into closed loop.
Hope it helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hard charging 929 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I hear what you're saying but, it really doesn't matter. If it's under warranty and he says he hit something they will replace it. It's not costing the dealership anything and the tech is still gonna get paid from American Honda so they'll replace it. Atleast at the dealer i'm at we do **** like that all the time.
If you dispute it with the customer they call American Honda and it gets ugly for the dealership you get a bad survey from the customer, which managers don't like cause it hurts the numbers. American Honda says replace it cause it's under warranty. That's why dealers will skip all that drama **** and just replace the cat.

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OK. you guys are talking like he punched a hole in the side of the catalyst. Is this what actually happened? Or did he gut the cat?

might be able to get away with the hole in the side. Hole inside? not so easy.

CEL could be caused by an exhaust leak if he punched a hole in the side
or
It could be that the O2 sensor isn't heating up properly/fast enough if the cat is gutted

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hard charging 929 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hear what you're saying but, it really doesn't matter. If it's under warranty and he says he hit something they will replace it. It's not costing the dealership anything and the tech is still gonna get paid from American Honda so they'll replace it. Atleast at the dealer i'm at we do **** like that all the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont know what dealership you go to but i am sure that 99% of all dealerships wont replace it. warranty only covers defects in Honda parts, not defects caused by something else like drilling a hole into the cat. it will be quite obvious to any tech that something was done on purpose and not by scraping the underside of your car.

 

sorry,please let me clarify. i gutted the inside thinking it wouldnt hurt sense there isnt any emission or pollution test in alabama

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by badcarters &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry,please let me clarify. i gutted the inside thinking it wouldnt hurt sense there isnt any emission or pollution test in alabama</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i thought you ment

why dont you just have a test pipe made for you at a local muffler shop it will replace you cat and get one of these 15$ at strutking.com


this is a test pipe ...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pd0019 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dont know what dealership you go to but i am sure that 99% of all dealerships wont replace it. warranty only covers defects in Honda parts, not defects caused by something else like drilling a hole into the cat. it will be quite obvious to any tech that something was done on purpose and not by scraping the underside of your car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The dealership I go to gives me a check every two weeks. From jump street I said that he'd have to lie his *** off about this which would be his decision. By no means do I think a technician wouldn't recognize that something was deliberately done. But the fact still remains that if it's under warranty then it's not gonna matter. The dealership isn't losing money. They don't pay for it, American Honda does. American Honda also pays us warranty tech time to replace it.

In all reality, when the tech pulls the code and sees there is no exhaust leaks, he/she isn't pulling the cat off to see if it's gutted. They are gonna order another one if it's under warranty.

 

thanks,i saw that for sale at procivic.com but wasnt sure how it was any different than a partialy gutted cat whith the sensor still left surronded by that ceramic **** inside,but will definently try if it keeps throwing it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by badcarters &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks,i saw that for sale at procivic.com but wasnt sure how it was any different than a partialy gutted cat whith the sensor still left surronded by that ceramic **** inside,but will definently try if it keeps throwing it</TD></TR></TABLE>

The ecu will continue to throw the code for sure bro

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fg2si!kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">




</TD></TR></TABLE>

That little puppy works. Much better than the two-piece piece of crap that autozone sells. The first day I went to the track with that two-piece it snapped like a twig by the time I was finished with my first run....Not to mention the CEL came on a couple times with the piece in.

I got THAT one-piece and haven't had an issue or CEL for over 10K miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hard charging 929 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The ecu will continue to throw the code for sure bro</TD></TR></TABLE>

only if he does not use the defouler

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hard charging 929 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The dealership I go to gives me a check every two weeks. From jump street I said that he'd have to lie his *** off about this which would be his decision. By no means do I think a technician wouldn't recognize that something was deliberately done. But the fact still remains that if it's under warranty then it's not gonna matter. The dealership isn't losing money. They don't pay for it, American Honda does. American Honda also pays us warranty tech time to replace it.

In all reality, when the tech pulls the code and sees there is no exhaust leaks, he/she isn't pulling the cat off to see if it's gutted. They are gonna order another one if it's under warranty.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dealerships and technicians don't like warranty work because it doesn't pay the same. You should know that. The time allotted for each job is all American Honda will pay for, not to mention that it's at a reduced rate. That's why dealerships try and squirm out of all the warranty work they can. They get paid more if it's your fault.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dealerships and technicians don't like warranty work because it doesn't pay the same. You should know that. The time allotted for each job is all American Honda will pay for, not to mention that it's at a reduced rate. That's why dealerships try and squirm out of all the warranty work they can. They get paid more if it's your fault.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear what you're saying. Warranty time does suck. But it's a cat. It's 6 bolts and take the o2 out. That's not even a half hour job. Especially being that the nuts haven't corroded themselves yet. No torch needed.
Just looked it up on ISIS, it pays .9 of an hour. I'll do that all day.

 

well hell, that's not to bad for warranty work.

thanks for the real info, instead of me just spouting off... lol