Hey guys,

I've already tried using the search function and I haven't been able to find anything yet. So I thought I'd make a post about it.

At the moment I'm not sure if I should go All Motor B18C or go with a JDM K20A swap since both have similar costs and similar power output but there would be a difference in torque, reliability, etc.

All Motor B18C setup would include costs of all misc stuff like intake, tb, injectors, fuel lines, fuel reg, etc

JDM K20A would be standard internals motor just with ecu, custom exhaust and other misc parts required.

I'm also considering selling the car for an S15/Evo 6 in the future. So I'm just weighing up options atm.

The car is currently a weekend car only and I'd be taking it to the occasional trackday if that helps. My mechanic suggested keeping the B18C and trying to keep the chassis in top notch.

Please leave your feedback Pros and Cons.

Cheers!


Modified by wu` at 1:00 PM 11/19/2007

 

k20 is awesome, not that the b18c isn't good, but why spend all this money on the conversion if you are just going to sell it for half the money you put in it? the k20 costs a pretty penny, and if you have a working b18c, the money can be spent elsewhere.

 

If I do the conversion/rebuild I'll be keeping the car for long term. But if I don't do any of these options I'd be opting for a s15 or evo 6.5

my current B18C motor has a 110,000km I was thinking about selling that with my headers, exhaust, and powerfc to cover some funds for the K20A.

 

K20A is a great engine and nobody could deny it (lot of torque, great response to mods etc...), but the B18C is the latest "B series" engine, and is more "crude" than K series since it has a one stage VTEC engagement and a "on/off" character.

In my opinion K20 is more efficient, but it has less "personality" than the B18

 

Similiar Cost's ? are you serious ? Price up a K swap and everything you need for it...lol

 

I already have... If you haven't read for the B18C ill be doing everything intake, tb, clutch + flywheel, baffled sump, oil cooler, radiator, fuel reg, injectors, gauges, mounts, etc. Not sure on the internals on the B18C yet still discussing it with my mechanic.

The K20A would just be standard with intake, custom exhaust and ecu tune.

Its about 2-4k price difference which im willing to stretch my budget for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MattyP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Similiar Cost's ? are you serious ? Price up a K swap and everything you need for it...lol</TD></TR></TABLE>


and wait 6 months for all the custom fabricated parts to be made

 

I'm in no hurry. The car would be off-road anyway for the B18C rebuild for a while.

So can anyone actually list some pros and cons for me?

 

The K20A(*) is not cheap, but by the time you spend everything you'd have to spend to get a B18 to the same power output, it's going to be pretty close.

If you decide on K, let everybody know, 'cause there are lots of us here who can tell you what <u>not</u> to do!!

 

To be honest, if I were to do my motor build again, I would have started with a K-series platform.

I am very pleased with the performance it has right now, ~230whp with tight gearing gives the car a completely different personality on track. However, I hate to think that for the same price, I could have a mildly built K-series making 20-40hp more, with an extra gear.

I am surprised that being in region where older Evolutions and Sylvia/Skylines are as abundant as Civics, that you would build a Honda. Very respectable.

What purposes would the car be for? Any particular series or just for enjoyment and track days?

 

Wu go with the K Swap. Here in Aus we do not have very many reputable builders or tuners.

Go witht he K swap and stick with bolt ons

 

I think most people here would agree that from a performance standpoint , the k is pretty good, the draw back is the money involved, but if you're ok with it, it is almost a 10 year newer engine, more technology, and an extra gear, somethings that a b series can not easily give you.

 

OEM reliability Of a K is amazing. And to get that power out of a B, it becomes a motor build (at least pistons and cams and valvetrain). If you shop around and do everybit of work your self and take your time when buying parts you can spend uner 6k to get it running.

K or B. Long live the B for sure. K is amazing!

 

hey peepz, what car those the JDM K20A belong to? and is b18c5 a jdm motor?

 

K20A comes in DC5 Integra Type R's

B18C5 is a USDM DC2 R motor.

 

My biggest con is the power you'll get out of it after spending all that money as opposed to other options.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdMhEaD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM reliability Of a K is amazing. And to get that power out of a B, it becomes a motor build...!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. We can't ignore the fact that Honda took what it learned with B motors to make the K motors.

There's no more tendency for some cylinders to run hotter than others, the internals are solid, the head flows magnificently....

You've got more power out of the box, reliably.

But...there's no doubt you're changing the character of the DC2 when you put a K motor in it.

 

From what I have heard from some reputable sources is that the K can not take the abuse a B can(again heard so not sure since I haven't had personal exp.) The oil pan of the K sits lower to the ground so have fun swapping out oil pans if you hit it alot at the track. Other than that, thats all I know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But...there's no doubt you're changing the character of the DC2 when you put a K motor in it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How did it change? For better or worse and why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdMhEaD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K20A comes in DC5 Integra Type R's

B18C5 is a USDM DC2 R motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you captain obvious. I say stick with your B18C. I'm in the process of a motor build up myself.

 

Obvious reason is the 6spd trans.

The comes weight, torque, how the car drives. Its like a whole new car.

And putting a K in a DC2-R chassis....some say its dumb and not worth it. But to each his own

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuckMyDOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thank you captain obvious. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea dick i was answering the guy who posted above me. Sorry you know it all. SOme people dont and i was trying to inform them!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How did it change? For better or worse and why? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not really better or worse...just different. Some people look at how the motor sits in the car and innately believe that the set alters the polar moment of inertia; however, this is anecdotal and I have never seen a real argument for or against it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trev-R257 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I have heard from some reputable sources is that the K can not take the abuse a B can....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not sure what kind of abuse they're talking about, but track experience and Honda Challenge drivers say otherwise.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The oil pan of the K sits lower to the ground so have fun swapping out oil pans if you hit it alot at the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How low the nose sits is up to you. Mine is very low because I don't trust camber kits and we get the camber by raising the rear and lowering the nose.

The K20A(*) ITR motor has an aluminium sump, which can cause a problem. It cools nicely, but if you hit it hard it's going to tend to crack instead of dent.

Other K20's do not have aluminium sumps.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdMhEaD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea dick i was answering the guy who posted above me. Sorry you know it all. SOme people dont and i was trying to inform them! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, well. Just be like the rest of us and act like you know 10x more than you reall do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh, well. Just be like the rest of us and act like you know 10x more than you reall do.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

if more power is what you want, may i suggest JSRC or a well tuned turbo kit?

10psi gets you about 250-260whp reliably on the JRSC and close if not more than 300whp (with something like a GT28RS with great response and power characteristics)

just something to think about