So, I am in the process of trying to change out my OEM shocks for Skunk 2's, and I cannot get the bottom bolt out to remove my rear shock.

I got the nut off after using a huge breaker bar, but it seems like the bolt might be rusted up to the sleeve in the bushing, and I think the bushing is shot (the bolt turns, but will not budge when trying to tap it out). I have been punding this thing with a small sledghammer, and it will just not come out. I have sprayed it generously with WD40 several times, and just can't get it.

I was hoping someone might have a trick I am not thinking of.

 

hammer it out on one end while using an impact gun to remove the bolt simultaneously.

thats how i got mine out.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, plus for everyone else I did a search and got an answer. Thanks

 

If its really seized in there, you may need to drop the whole control arm. For some reason the outer control arm bolts tend not to be seized but the shock mount bolts are usually the first ones to get jammed in there. Good luck. Worst case scenario, pull the arm, brake the bolt and cut out the old bushing. A new bushing is only $15 or so, and you can hammer it in with a large socket.

 

heres what i had to do, it was a worst case imo.


had to cut the strut off with the grinder so it was just the bolt stuck in the bushing. then i had to melt the bushing out of the lca with a torch and a flathead screwdriver. all thats left is to press in a new bushing. did all that with the suspension still on the car because the other lca mounting bolts were seized as well and i couldnt drop the control arm

 

I just replaced two of these bottom bolts on a 2010 Honda Pilot (Touring); one for each rear shock. I had the same problem with the bolt being rusted to the inside metal cylinder of the shock. It took me about 4 hrs per bolt, but I was successful in getting them both out without having to cut anything. If you encounter this same problem, you are probably going to torque off the outer rubber casing of this cylinder that binds it to the lower end of the shock absorber, which when that happens, the bolt and this metal cylinder simply rotate without ever backing out of the hole. If this happens to you here are some tips:
1) Buy a new replacement bolt from Honda before starting work. "Genuine Honda Rear Suspension Shock Lower Bolt OE 90172STXA00" about $14.95 per bolt
2) Have penetrating oil (I use PB Blaster), a torch, a 1/2 inch drive 17 MM socket, breaker bar, mallet, Dremel Tool with cutoff wheels, vice grips, and drive rod handy. If you have an impact wrench, even better
3) Soak both ends of the bolt with penetrating oil periodically and give time to soak in before starting work.
4) Try removing the bolt using the 17MM socket and breaker bar OR impact wrench
5) If the the outside rubber seal torques off inside the lower end of the shock, get the vice grips ready.
6) Place the vice grips on the rubber coated metal cylinder next to the lower end of the shock. They have to be on really tight, so if you need more leverage to close the vice grips, use a piece of word or pipe to push the handle closed
7) Heat both end of the bolt with the torch for about a minute on each side then try the breaker bar and socket again. This may take several tries until all the rubber wears off the cylinder and the vice grips grab onto the metal.
8) If the rubber on both sides of the shock lower mount are worn off and the shock is now free to be moved side to side with a block of wood, move the lower mount all the way to one side and try to put the vice grips on the metal cylinder from underneath using the bottom hole in the control arm.
9) If you have been successful in back out the bolt from the nut that is welded to the control arm, then try hammering out the bolt using a mallet and drive.
10) If this still doesn't work, use the dremel tool to cut two horizontal grooves in the metal cylinder on each side of the lower shock mount until you reach the shaft of the stuck bolt. Then load up each groove with penetrating oil. Keep applying the oil to really soak that stuck bolt.
11) now try backing out the bolt with the breaking bar and socket. Try hammering out the bolt with the mallet and drive tool.
12) Alternating between wrenching and hammering will eventually drive this bolt out.
13) After removing the old bolt and shock, install new shock with new bolt.
14) Apply anti-seize compound to the new bolt before reinstalling.