My first ever attempt using bondo...crx is the test mule
The CRX had a dent under the drivers side door handle which was there when I bought the car. I was able to pop some of it out by hand, but it still was pretty obvious so I decided to give bondo a try. No prior body experience with this so try not to flame me if I did something wrong.
I did not take any before pics of what the dent looked like before I tried popping it out by hand but I should have.
Here are some pics of after I tried popping it out.



And after some sanding.

After first layer of bondo

After second

Some sanding on the rest of the door while the second layer dries

After last layer of bondo and finished sanding. Taping up for paint.


After paint.




Overall I am pretty happy with how it turned out. It is no where near perfect but for the most part the dent is gone. There probably isn't anything I would do different if I had to do it over again.
There are a few low spaces in the hood and a few minor dings on the other side which I plan to do the same to. I guess I will just rattle can flat black the whole car so it will be the same color as the door.
The end.
All feedback welcome.
I did not take any before pics of what the dent looked like before I tried popping it out by hand but I should have.
Here are some pics of after I tried popping it out.



And after some sanding.

After first layer of bondo

After second

Some sanding on the rest of the door while the second layer dries

After last layer of bondo and finished sanding. Taping up for paint.


After paint.




Overall I am pretty happy with how it turned out. It is no where near perfect but for the most part the dent is gone. There probably isn't anything I would do different if I had to do it over again.
There are a few low spaces in the hood and a few minor dings on the other side which I plan to do the same to. I guess I will just rattle can flat black the whole car so it will be the same color as the door.
The end.
All feedback welcome.
i'm no expert but i think it came out great! looks nice and even. only thing.. you oversprayed some black on the red. BUT if you're painting the whole car black that doesn't matter.
good work!
good work!
Well not bad, thumbs up for ambition. Next time though, if your going to use a "heavy" filler use a brand like ppg technifill, night and day difference in workability to Bondo brand. Also, when using these "heavy" fillers you really should go down to bare metal, they don't have great adhesiond to paint. So where you want the mud take it down to metal, then feather back the paint for a smooth transition, then fill, block sand... The downside to putting this kind of filler over paint is that when you try to feather the edges of the body filler it can "peal" back. body fillers need at least 80 grit scuff to get adhesion, 40grit is better. For shallow dents you can go over paint that is scuffed with 80 grit with a "glaze" Evercoat metal glaze is the ****, its like the consistancy of toothpaste, spreads very nice, sands easier and will adhere to paint that has been scuffed with 80. But if your just gonna be rattle canning it black your method should be aight.
good work for your first time
btw bondo isnt a product, its a trade name. lol
simple misconception of fillers....well unless u used the actual Bondo brand
btw bondo isnt a product, its a trade name. lol
simple misconception of fillers....well unless u used the actual Bondo brand
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AK_CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well not bad, thumbs up for ambition. Next time though, if your going to use a "heavy" filler use a brand like ppg technifill, night and day difference in workability to Bondo brand. Also, when using these "heavy" fillers you really should go down to bare metal, they don't have great adhesiond to paint. So where you want the mud take it down to metal, then feather back the paint for a smooth transition, then fill, block sand... The downside to putting this kind of filler over paint is that when you try to feather the edges of the body filler it can "peal" back. body fillers need at least 80 grit scuff to get adhesion, 40grit is better. For shallow dents you can go over paint that is scuffed with 80 grit with a "glaze" Evercoat metal glaze is the ****, its like the consistancy of toothpaste, spreads very nice, sands easier and will adhere to paint that has been scuffed with 80. But if your just gonna be rattle canning it black your method should be aight. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow I hope a big chunk of filler doesn't fall out on me while I am drivin down the road...lol that would suck. I went down to metal for part of it but not all of it. Hopefully it stays in for awhile.
Wow I hope a big chunk of filler doesn't fall out on me while I am drivin down the road...lol that would suck. I went down to metal for part of it but not all of it. Hopefully it stays in for awhile.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ~sp33~ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any overspray on that window?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Naw the bag held up fine
Naw the bag held up fine
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aalouie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks pretty good, did you use a flatboard? Also if you finish it off with some glaze or spot putty before the primer it will help. Alot better than my first time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is a flatboard?
</TD></TR></TABLE>What is a flatboard?
i believe he is talking about a mixing bored, also i would suggest using a good automotive primer over your body filler at least then using the cheap black, to paint it all one color, other wise moisture can get into your body filler will crack
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HondaCutter
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Oct 10, 2003 09:43 PM





