I did a search and found nothing. This is somewhat related to the post I made a little while ago. My wife's 2000 Civic SiR Coupe (CAN) was having problems and was jerking when you let off the accellerator (even at super low speeds and RPMs). It threw a code 4 (Crank Position Sensor) so I replaced the distributor with one from a b18 that my buddy had left over from a swap.

After doing this the car was suddenly making a lot more noise in the engine area, and when it hit vtec there was no power gain and the engine sounded so damn loud I thought it was going to explode (honestly, when it hit vtec it was such a loud changeover that it made me jump). Now there is a lot of low end power loss too and it doesn't accelerate as smoothly as it should. But the idle is fine. I repeat, there is nothing wrong with the idle. I should also mention that the car seemed to work fine and wasn't throwing any Check Engine Light for a little while after putting in the new distributor, but now it is doing the same thing again (code four and jerking).

What is going on with this car???

Thanks for your help, people.

 

if it says crank position sensor get a new one. it has nothing to do with your dizzy i dont know why that even came to your mind

 

The Crank Position Sensor is located in the distributor sub assembly. It is, essentially, a part of the distributor. It is not sold individually, and you cannot buy only the distributor sub assembly, you have to buy the whole damn thing (unless you can find one in a buddy's garage or at the wrecker). Cheapest I could find one for on the net is like 200 bux, I'd like to avoid buying a brand new one until I am certain that it will fix the problem.

 

sorry i stand corrected the only car i ever had to change the crank position sensor in it was in the block figured you were just a newb throwing parts at a situation.

bump to help the guy who is know what he is talking about

 

That being said...there should not be any problem in using a b18 distributor on a b16, should there? Do these symptoms sound like my timing might be off by a degree or two? The distributor is lined up. I guess I could get off my *** and do a compression test of each cylinder too, but then I'd need to buy a compression tester and figure out how to use it.

Any other suggestions?

 

bump...help a brother out

 

i would check the timming it is possible that it was disrupted with the installation the the new/used dizzy or maybe the dizzy is fucked too did the code go away or is it still there make sure the vtec solide(i cant spell) is pluged in firmly and... can you hear vtec in gage just no power or is the vtec no engaging

 

The code (4) went away for about a week but the car still performed like crap. VTEC engages, you can hear it but there is no feeling of power gain. And it is so loud when it engages that it hurts my ears. I've never heard anything coming from a honda engine that is so friggin loud. I should mention that we swapped the igniter out of her old dizzy and put it in the new one (cuz the new one didn't have one...I think it was burned out or something). Again, I'm wondering whether a b18 and b16 dizzy are interchangeable without any real problems? I'm gonna try using my buddy's diz from his EM1 to see if it fixes the problem. I'll post again to say whether or not that helped.

 

I tried swapping in my buddy's dizzy. No change. I bought and installed new spark plug wires. No change. It seems to operate normally (or at least somewhat normally) until about 3000 RPMs. It begins to make a screeching sound at any RPM above this and there is almost complete torque loss from about 3000 RPMs on. Vtec still sounds wayyyyyyy too ****** loud. The engine itself is sounding too deep and loud too from about 2000 RPMs. It idles and starts normally, so no problem there.

HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!!

Could it be a blown ring? could the timing be totally off? I know 1 or 2 degrees from a slightly misaligned dizzy SHOULD NOT screw up this car's performance so horribly at it probably wouldn't idle or start normally if the timing were screwed.

My next step is a compression test. First time for everything!!!

If anyone knows any other steps I could take before trying a timing check please let me know!!!!

Sorry for the long post but I REALLY wanna get this thing running properly...

THANKS!

 

bump

I know you guys are smarter than me when it comes to this...

 

teaching class...bump

 

Are you 110% sure that the timing is not off?


Modified by mcvtec at 1:17 PM 11/22/2007

 

If the timing were off the car would start rough and idle rough, no? As it is it starts smoothly and idles normally.

Operates normally till 3000 RPMs ish.

Does this sound like a couple degrees of timing issue? I don't have much experience with mild, moderate, or severe timing problems.

I'll try adjusting the dizzy two degrees both ways and will see what happens.

Does this sound like a good idea?

 

Sounds like timing to me. Make sure everything is properly lined up, it may have jumped a tooth or two, its happened to me before.

 

If it jumped a tooth or two it wouldn't idle smoothly, would it?

I changed the fuel filter and there was no change. Plus I tried advancing and retarding the dizzy. No real change either way. I'm at a loss.

 

no, i had my timing jump on me when i installed a new tensioner and didnt tighten it properly. it idled fine and ran ok too but it had power loss and when revved up and released the engine sputtered quite a bit. it sounds like a timing problem to me.

 

If you think it's a blown ring or the engine itself. Change the oil and check for bits in it.

 

seriously, check the timing like everyone eles says. I am also thinking its timing.

 

the crank position sensor is actually at the crank. inside the distributor there are three sensors the cylinder position sensor , the top dead center sensor and the crank angle sensor. also located inside the dizzy is the ignition control module. Im assuming this car is ob2. Get a new CRANK POSITION SENSOR. Replace. / thread.

 

also if you took your buddys dizzy it would have to be ob2 as well that may cause some problems right there.

 

here[img] http://s73.photobucket.com/alb...9.gif [img]

 

they have one sensor in the dizzy and one at the crank. You all are thinking of obd1 that just has it in the dizzy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a3delsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they have one sensor in the dizzy and one at the crank. You all are thinking of obd1 that just has it in the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry image didnt work but yes you are correct.

 

Thanks for all of your help people. Turns out it was a clogged catalytic converter. I never would have guessed it. Looks like the wifey's gettin a new exhaust setup!