Wassup guys I got b20 swapped in my hatch I just wanted some of u guys opinion what should I do throw a turbo in it or all motor I want atleast 250 horses what is the best way to go

 

I dunno if you'd need to sleeve the block for 250 horses but I know that b20's "have" thin cylinder walls so higher amounts of boost might call for it to be sleeved.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96 EX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dunno if you'd need to sleeve the block for 250 horses but I know that b20's "have" thin cylinder walls so higher amounts of boost might call for it to be sleeved.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is true, B20's are just LS motors bored out.
250 from a b20 may require internal work (sleeves) if you plan to boost the motor, and have it work in the long run.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is true, B20's are just LS motors bored out.
250 from a b20 may require internal work (sleeves) if you plan to boost the motor, and have it work in the long run.
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Actually they aren't just bored B18Bs, they have a completely different type of cylinder sleeve.

285whp on stock sleeves for 3+ years, daily driven by me.

Detonation is the killer for these motors - that and excessive boost pressure & over revving.

Use some sense when you turbo it and it'll last you quite a while.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d357r0y &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Detonation is the killer for these motors - that and excessive boost pressure & over revving

Use some sense when you turbo it and it'll last you quite a while. </TD></TR></TABLE>

These are the killers of ANY engine usually.

 

What kind of setup do u have that's what I want daily driven 200+ hp I seen kits on ebay for like 1200 but I don't know if its a generic brand does it really matter? How much would it cost for a nice setup

 

You'll be fine on stock internals at 250hp at the wheels - as long as you retain the stock redline.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll be fine on stock internals at 250hp at the wheels - as long as you retain the stock redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And if the bottom end doest fall apart.

OP: I suggest getting a full build. 250 at the wheels on a b20 is going to be "risky"

balance the crank, get some strong rods, and a mild valve train setup with a mild port/polish would be a good idea.

Then you should be good to go.

Your priority though I think should be the rods.

 

What u guys think of a vtec head on a b20

 

I think you should <U>search</U> for B20/VTEC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And if the bottom end doest fall apart.

OP: I suggest getting a full build. 250 at the wheels on a b20 is going to be "risky"

balance the crank, get some strong rods, and a mild valve train setup with a mild port/polish would be a good idea.

Then you should be good to go.

Your priority though I think should be the rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he retains the stock redline at 250whp build the engine will hold together just fine (assuming he got it tuned right). It's a big myth that B20's fall apart and are held together by toothpicks, etc. etc. I've seen my fair share of them blow too, but it's usually just because people slap a B16 head on it, and think they can run it to an 8 grand redline.

The redline of the B20Z out of the '99 CRV LX is 6700 RPM.

You set a rev limiter at 6,500 RPM and you'll be sitting pretty, boosting to 250hp at the wheels, all day long, etc. etc. (assuming you got it tuned right).

The reason B20's blow up - and I've seen this one too many times - is because people wanna do a "B20/VTEC" build - and they slap a B16 or GSR head on that son of a bitch, then they jack their ECU to 8000 RPM saying "oh yeah, well the head can take it" - and then come crying here when one of their cylinders is taking in air through the side of the block .

Retain the stock redline, or even go a bit lower at like 6500 RPM, and boosting to 250whp on a good tune on stock internals will be a synch.

NOTE:Redlines aren't just what the head can take, it's what the block and block internals can take too. A lot of people don't get that. Wouldn't be the first person either that I've seen slap a Z6 head on a B7 and decide that 7200 is an okay redline, then even though it falls off at 6800, they wind it there anyways and snap a rod - same deal.

EDIT:
PS: You may think that 6500 is low, and for a Honda/Acura, who's world known for their high revving, sub-standard displacement, naturally aspirated motors, it is. Though seeing as how a 2.0L displacement is the industry standard for a 4 cylinder engine, and seeing as how 6500 RPM is the industry standard for a redline, a 2.0L having a 6500 RPM redline isn't that far outta whack. You may not have the typical 90 gazillion RPM redline that hondas tend to have, but the B20 is a TORQUE motor, not a HORSEPOWER motor.

 

I never drove a b20 vtec or a ls vtec I heard there pretty strong are? How much power gains can I excpect is it cheaper than doin a turbo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The reason B20's blow up - and I've seen this one too many times - is because people wanna do a "B20/VTEC" build - and they slap a B16 or GSR head on that son of a bitch, then they jack their ECU to 8000 RPM saying "oh yeah, well the head can take it" - and then come crying here when one of their cylinders is taking in air through the side of the block .
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The weak point in the LS/B20/VTEC motors is the rods/rod bolts. Yes, the head can take it, but the rod bolts cannot. They stretch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e-g-6jdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never drove a b20 vtec or a ls vtec I heard there pretty strong are? How much power gains can I excpect is it cheaper than doin a turbo </TD></TR></TABLE>

They're as strong as their internals, and as good as the builder. Have you searched at all?

 

No I haven't searched at all I'm kinda new to this stuff I rather ask people who nows more than I do

 

Some free advice, then.

Searching is sometimes more helpful because as it's already been covered, there's more information on a topic.

 

Seems like u know ur **** thanks 4 the info I learned suttin new

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black_EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The weak point in the LS/B20/VTEC motors is the rods/rod bolts. Yes, the head can take it, but the rod bolts cannot. They stretch. </TD></TR></TABLE>

250whp with a 6500 RPM redline?

The bottom end should hold together just fine, no?

 

Should in theory, yes.

I was pointing out the weak link in the LS/B20/VTEC motors, nothing else.

 

do u think its possible to get a all motor b20 at 200 hp?

 

Absolutely.

 

how much power gains can i excpect on itb?

 

I have no <U>personal</U> experience with ITBs, but from what I've seen , they are a PITA to tune. They're not cheap either.

 

hey what motor do u have if u dont mind me asking

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black_EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have no <U>personal</U> experience with ITBs, but from what I've seen , they are a PITA to tune. They're not cheap either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're not easy to make, either, you gotta be good w/ a cutter and welder.