JDM H22A 94 ---> euro-r
Stage1 cams and boltons for a regular H22A will net the same or more power as a stock EuroR.
My friends EuroR i/h/e tuned on Crome 195whp/154tq
My H22A s2s1 cams i/h/e tuned on vafc 196whp/160tq
My friends EuroR i/e/HyTech header s2p2 cams 210whp/160tq
Hand built EuroR i/e/SMSP header JUN cams 220whp/170tq same dyno as above
My friends EuroR i/h/e tuned on Crome 195whp/154tq
My H22A s2s1 cams i/h/e tuned on vafc 196whp/160tq
My friends EuroR i/e/HyTech header s2p2 cams 210whp/160tq
Hand built EuroR i/e/SMSP header JUN cams 220whp/170tq same dyno as above
My philosophy, now, is if you're going to do it eventually anyways, build from the inside out.
Bolt ons are easy, and you'll get the power now, but if you build the block up a bit now, you can add boltons later and make more. That way your boltons will be suited to your built block rather than a stock one.
Bolt ons are easy, and you'll get the power now, but if you build the block up a bit now, you can add boltons later and make more. That way your boltons will be suited to your built block rather than a stock one.
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hondatech
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Oct 16, 2002 09:31 AM




