jh

 

edited for better list

*Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
*Reverse Switch
*Hydrolic Lines
5spd Gauge Cluster
Cotter Pins (assorted sizes)
Assorted Nuts and Bolts
shift linkage

actually im tired, here.. read.
http://www.mazmo.com/zameoj/swap.htm

 

**** im with you on the intership. im trying to co-op next semester. school sucks

 

im not being a d*ck but you need to read alot more about what your trying to do. i dont know where you got the idea of shaving a headgasket, people "shave" the HEAD. Is your motor blown? the price of the Euro R swap could get you a built motor in my eyes. just take ALOT more time to read about what your doing. but here some basic recomendations for your "list" the pro 2s are over kill pro 1s are better suited and what do you plan on using for tunning software? good luck

 

shaving your head to gain compression is a bad idea. just do all na build

 

o ok..that not going to raise it that much though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h23vtecpowered &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o ok..that not going to raise it that much though</TD></TR></TABLE>

it will be plenty for a 11:1 motor

please guys, constructive criticism only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it will be plenty for a 11:1 motor

please guys, constructive criticism only. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i was thinking 10.1 when i read it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by my9thtry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not being a d*ck but you need to read alot more about what your trying to do. i dont know where you got the idea of shaving a headgasket, people "shave" the HEAD. Is your motor blown? the price of the Euro R swap could get you a built motor in my eyes. just take ALOT more time to read about what your doing. but here some basic recomendations for your "list" the pro 2s are over kill pro 1s are better suited and what do you plan on using for tunning software? good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hamadiscool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I forgot to mention but I am going to tune with crome on a chipped p72 ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your lucky you live in TX. You have excess to a few of the top tuners in the country.

 

st00pid does great work.

Do you feel qualified/ready to buy a bare block and a helms, tools, and assemble the block yourself?

It would be a great learning experience, and you'd save a bunch of money.

I'd tell you to have your current engine built but it sounds like your car is your DD.

 

Well then, if all you want is a basic euro R then definitely go for it, if you can get a good price on one, don't want to deal with shops building you something, etc, then yeah, go for it. Just don't get ripped off mang, anything over $3500 for a swap these days is ridiculous.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">st00pid does great work.

Do you feel qualified/ready to buy a bare block and a helms, tools, and assemble the block yourself?

It would be a great learning experience, and you'd save a bunch of money.

I'd tell you to have your current engine built but it sounds like your car is your DD.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what im doin

 

i just cant see spending 3900 dollars if you really want the "euro R" go for it. if it was me i'd be all over a JDM H23A and an m2b4, would be cheaper and a better DD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hamadiscool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The reason I don't want to buy a jdm motor and change it's internals is b/c I don't know many people in the car scene who could help me meet my goals. If I buy a jdm motor with manual transmission, this will set me back around $2k but if I do internal work on it then it will add up to almost $1k so that is $3k right there. The euroR comes with the best h22 transmission and will only be $1k more. I think that $1k extra is a good peace of mind that I don't have to deal with shops to do the internals.

I forgot to mention but I am going to tune with crome on a chipped p72 ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, don't build the engine. Buy the swap, then part out the H22 in it to make back some money. It will be cheaper if you do it that way....and the car will be more reliable. Once the engine is cracked open, the reliability fairies tend to fly out.

I think you have a good plan. Hope it works out for you.

 

word. thats what i liked about getting my JDM swap. little more expensive, but after parting most of everything out it wasnt so bad.

i hope the honda fairies like me

 

One major problem your going to have is piston to valve contact. stock pistons do not have valve reliefs cut deep enugh for the cams your talking about.

Running a thinner headgasket is only going to make that worse. Skunk2 does not recomend stock pistons and the pro series cams but, you can make them work.

I dont think you can run much thinner then stock headgasket but dont quote me on that. Another option you have is flat faced valves but seriously man, your not going to notice .5 a point of compression, is not worth all the trouble.

As far as the balance shafts go if its a street car i say leave them functioning.

 

by the way your car's hott

 

make sure the euro-r injectors will be compatible with that P72 ecu. I know several people have kept and used the Euro injectors though. The iacv would be the only other thing I can see you having to deal with. Thats an easy fix though.

 

loop your PS lines at the rack. I have a writeup in the faq for it.

 

Nice build!

If you want PS just swap crank pulleys

my dyno tuner did a test on several cars and I believe the PS and AC only takes 1.1 whp away...

Skunk2 pro'2 require compression for great results atleast 12-1 id imagine. However people have ran them on here and seen good numbers with a stock jdm h22 bottom end 10.6-1 (220 whp). The key is playin with them and dialing them in just right ask Rosko... I think he gained some crazy number like 60 whp.

If you do go with the Skunk2 pro 2's stick with a OEM thickness headgasket. A tunable software such as Crome or Hondata is a must.

Skunk2 pro 1's are a better cam for the street and will get you above the 200 whp mark.

 

yes. And in more places than just peak power....if installed and tuned properly.