What works well for refinishing the black trim pieces?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,411
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From: Austin/Bastrop, TX, USA
My daily 89 hatch is looking pretty rough. The black bumpers are now grey and the side trim looks just as bad... some pieces are a different shade than the others. What should I use? I was thinking about the Duplicolor "Bumper Coating". Anyone have any issues with the durability of the stuff or have a better recommendation? I'd like to tackle this while it is still nice outside.
I wish I could find where I read it, but someone just repainted the trim matt black, not glossy, just black. Looked good too. I plan on trying it in the next few days if you havent done anything Ill post pics.
Black Shoe Dye. I did it to all of my interior goodies. Works great on bumpers. Make sure the surface is clean. That's what the VW MKII guys have been doing for years.
I just finished mine. Second time( first in Jan.) using the Duplicolor. Chips off but can't figure why. I don't know if it's being rubbed off or just peeling. Looks good though, just make sure to use the adhesive primer.
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cleaned but didn't scuff. i thought that was what the adhesive was for? Plus i didn't want to make my trim any worse than what it was. I don't know, i'm new to the game. is that why its chipping?
I've used shoe dye on white wall tires that were mounted with the white walls towards the inside and it holds up very well. Only one coat with no reapplication.
SEM 39143
trim black i got it at oreilleys best **** ever hands down all i did was wash the car then i taped trim off and sprayed it its like 15 bux a can but well worth it looks brand new not "just been painted" look website is http://www.sem.ws
trim black i got it at oreilleys best **** ever hands down all i did was wash the car then i taped trim off and sprayed it its like 15 bux a can but well worth it looks brand new not "just been painted" look website is http://www.sem.ws
I don't know if you want to listen to me but I just plain old sprayed em. I know how everyone hates the rattle cans.
Light sanding with some 600 grit, hit it with a scruffy pad then blew it off with an air compressor. Taped everything off, masked whatever else and rattle canned it with really light coats.
Came out fine to me, and if u don't like the glossy look and want it to look more like plastic hit it lightly with the scruffy pad again after a few days of it being dry. It will dull out the gloss and make it look flatter.
Light sanding with some 600 grit, hit it with a scruffy pad then blew it off with an air compressor. Taped everything off, masked whatever else and rattle canned it with really light coats.
Came out fine to me, and if u don't like the glossy look and want it to look more like plastic hit it lightly with the scruffy pad again after a few days of it being dry. It will dull out the gloss and make it look flatter.
Um dont use bumper coat the life on that crap is like four months find a good alcohol based paint like one shot or something rember isocinide based paint dosent dry on rubber so go with an enamel like something from rusteloem there paint is alcohol based (painter here)
i've done it before with spray truck bed liner. gives it that textured look and never cracks. it's not shiny, looks perfect and you'd think i had new mouldings. i've also heard of people using undercoating. just some idea's, either way is cheap, just depends on your preference! good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Patty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cleaned but didn't scuff. i thought that was what the adhesive was for? Plus i didn't want to make my trim any worse than what it was. I don't know, i'm new to the game. is that why its chipping?</TD></TR></TABLE> Any area that is being painted should be scuffed before the adhesive and after
i usually buy new bumpers and trim. hehe that's actually what i have done for my recent build.
but...
i have these xenon side skirts that have seen better days. so i plan on painting them with some sort of trim paint. so, i'll subscribe to this thread and check back on pictures from everyone.
but...
i have these xenon side skirts that have seen better days. so i plan on painting them with some sort of trim paint. so, i'll subscribe to this thread and check back on pictures from everyone.
you want originality? RHINO LINER!
yea what now?...nah please keep that away from an EF pleaseee hahaha.
I did it on the dash of my jeep and it looks bad ******* ***. Its not going within 50 feet of my crx though!
yea what now?...nah please keep that away from an EF pleaseee hahaha.
I did it on the dash of my jeep and it looks bad ******* ***. Its not going within 50 feet of my crx though!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,411
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From: Austin/Bastrop, TX, USA
Is the Back To Black a Mothers product? Is it a dye, paint, or something like Armor All?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used duplicolor trim paint.
Looks good to this day. Did my bumpers and trim. It's in my project thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ch3mik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">duplicolor trim paint people. nuff said. just make sure the area is clean.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x3
done
Looks good to this day. Did my bumpers and trim. It's in my project thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ch3mik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">duplicolor trim paint people. nuff said. just make sure the area is clean.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x3
done
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Where the wild things are in, NY, United States of America
SEM 39143 trim black FTW, this **** is awesome... tape off area then scrub with gray scotch brite pad with an abrasive soap and water ("scuff it" is the pro ****, but Ajax or Bippy will do). -I reccomend scotch brite scuffing on these over wetsanding because wetsanding will remove any factory texture and will only hit the peaks of the texture, scotch brite will scour into the entire surface-. Rinse all residue off, remove wet tape, let dry... Tape off again, really nicely this time. rub over the surface with isopropyl alcohol or (PPG dx330 or R&M pre-cleano is better but alcohol will do as a wax/grease remover) let it evaporate. Spray a light coat of R&M plastic primer(available at body shop supply stores that carry R&M brand) Wear a F'n respirator cause this **** is bad nasty!! Let the plastic primer dry 5 minutes, hit it with a tack rag to remove any dust and what nots. Then apply 2-3 mist coats to your part. let dry about an hour and your set. If you skip any of these steps it will be likely to peal chip rub off etc. Remember 90% of a paint job is prep.
Rattle can etiquette (sp?) get your cans warm before you use them, aresols work under pressure built up in the can, the more pressure they get the better the paint will atomize... Ever notice the begining of a rattle can will spray smoother than one half empty? Heating the can up a bit will do two things, it will raise the pressure of the can, and also make the paint a thinner consistancy (think hot oil vs. cold oil) making it easier for the aresol to atomize the paint. So heat up a bowl water to "not quite boiling" then put the can in the water and spin it for a couple minutes, then shake the hell out of it, ball will rattle much better now. You will never spray a cold can again... Old scale model car trick. Also when you're done using the can hold it upside down and spray untill it comes out clear, this will keep the nozzle clean for the next go round.
Next to replacing your o.g. trim with brand new pieces this is the next best thing.
Rattle can etiquette (sp?) get your cans warm before you use them, aresols work under pressure built up in the can, the more pressure they get the better the paint will atomize... Ever notice the begining of a rattle can will spray smoother than one half empty? Heating the can up a bit will do two things, it will raise the pressure of the can, and also make the paint a thinner consistancy (think hot oil vs. cold oil) making it easier for the aresol to atomize the paint. So heat up a bowl water to "not quite boiling" then put the can in the water and spin it for a couple minutes, then shake the hell out of it, ball will rattle much better now. You will never spray a cold can again... Old scale model car trick. Also when you're done using the can hold it upside down and spray untill it comes out clear, this will keep the nozzle clean for the next go round.
Next to replacing your o.g. trim with brand new pieces this is the next best thing.



