i was looking at these strut bars and was wondering if any one on here has had them in there car? its for a 92 civic hatch! let me know before i waste money if they are bad!


NRG 2 POINT STRUT BAR



Application list:
TNB-401 TC FRONT STRUT BRACE - HONDA ACCORD 94-97
TNB-402 TC FRONT STRUT BRACE - HONDA ACCORD 98-00
TNB-403 TC FRONT STRUT BRACE - HONDA CIVIC 92-95
TNB-404 TC REAR STRUT BRACE - HONDA CIVIC 92-95
TNB-405 TC FRONT STRUT BRACE - HONDA CIVIC 96-98
TNB-406 TC REAR STRUT BRACE - HONDA CIVIC 96-98
TNB-407 TC FRONT STRUT BRACE - HONDA CIVIC 2001

$120 (Front & Rear Strut Bar) Shipped

 

poop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mormonboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">poop. </TD></TR></TABLE>

why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyjetsfan22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why?</TD></TR></TABLE>

cuz.

 

It's like every other chassis brace out there - and if you want opinions on chassis bracing in general, please search, because it's been covered dozens of times over.

Bottom line: if you want it, buy it. If you're buying it for a measurable performance benefit, especially for the amount of money you'll spend, don't hold your breath.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mormonboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">poop. </TD></TR></TABLE>

just save your money and get a cage..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eggmygirl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just save your money and get a cage.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

get some solid bars with no hinges. ebay type r style will be better than those.


Modified by verycleanhatch at 9:00 PM 11/11/2007

 

neither of those

x-bar ftw!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's like every other chassis brace out there - and if you want opinions on chassis bracing in general, please search, because it's been covered dozens of times over.

Bottom line: if you want it, buy it. If you're buying it for a measurable performance benefit, especially for the amount of money you'll spend, don't hold your breath.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. Any bar with hinges in it may as well be purely for bling factor. So get that NRG bar if you want a bar for the sake of having one.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by verycleanhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some solid bars with no hinges. ebay type r style will be better than those.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I second that. Look at the PasswordJDM solid bars...no hinges or bolts.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mormonboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">neither of those

x-bar ftw! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, for the back, definitely look into an x-brace.

 

don't know about those password bars. i have read in a post that their two point solid bars can bend some just by using your hands.

i would get some 3 point bars like benen or carbing if you got money.

 

if you really really need to get a strut bar for that added jdm bling and measly suspension rigity, then get a carbing. I cant see myself spending $200-300 for a strut bar that does almost nothing... Check out full race cars, not a strut bar in sight. Roll bar would help you out tremendously.

 

I have the NRG bars on my DB7 for the hell of it since I got them for cheap... The fitment is alright... you have to assemble everything loosely and then tighten it down once its on the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by verycleanhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't know about those password bars. i have read in a post that their two point solid bars can bend some just by using your hands.

i would get some 3 point bars like benen or carbing if you got money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you're downplaying the P:JDM bars saying their 2-pt bars are more flexible than the Benen/Carbing 3-pt bars? Well of course they are...

Have you heard accounts from people not being able to bend Carbing 2-pt bars? I have P:JDM bars front and rear (3-pt front, 2-pt rear), and yeah if you hit them hard they'll flex a tiny bit, but who says the Carbing and Benen ones don't do that as well? Most bars will flex a little bit, but that also doesn't mean they're not good.

Anyway, Benen, Carbing, and P:JDM all make solid 3-pt bars, but it's up to you which one you choose...some will say that the P:JDM bar is stiffer than the Carbing because the walls are thicker and it has an internal cross plate in every bar (1st pic), and because Carbing leaves gaps when they weld the end of the bar to the mounting plates (2nd pic)

 

does password and carbing use the same metal?

 

I don't know much about distinguishing between metal grades, but here's what they use:

Password uses 6061 T-4 aluminum, 0.125" wall thickness (3.175mm)
Carbing uses either 5052 or 6063S aluminum, with a 3mm wall thickness.

 

pick up a set of cheap ebay strut bars and call it day. i see no point in spending $50+ on strut bars.

 

i also read somewhere else that the carbing two point bars do no flex with your hands either.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackhope121 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The fit and quality was excellent. Very nice welds and construction. However as strong as password says the bar is i can phyically flex the bar just a little bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

from this thread. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1850510

 

picking up an ebay set will do you absolutely no good other than bling (even then, they look cheap and flimsy)...the functionality of STBs is questionable, so if you are a believer and have the goal in mind to stiffen up the chassis but don't want/can't afford a cage, then you're gonna have to throw down a bit of money for better bars.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by verycleanhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i also read somewhere else that the carbing two point bars do no flex with your hands either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Point taken, it's good to hear stuff like this, but I personally would like to see more than just a second hand account before I fully believe it. As I mentioned before I have the P:JDM bars, and there's no way you could flex them with just your arms...maybe if you brace it against your knee and pull on the ends, it might bend a bit, but they're very far from flimsy...and there's no doubting the rigidity of the 3-point front bar.


Modified by KaBlookie at 7:59 AM 11/15/2007

 

you can find a Autopower 4pt on h-t for around 300 if you look hard enough. I got mine for $230 installed... one of the happiest upgrades iv had.