alright im trying to decide wheather to buy a complete GSR swap for $3500 or buy a complete swap CTR for almost $4000. what would be the advantages and disadvantages of both swaps. the motor is going to be in a 2000 EX. should i buy the gsr and boost it eventually or buy the ctr and build it all motor eventually?

 

gsr boost ftw

 

I would do an all motor CTR, but thats just me. Turbo GSR's are all over the place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by King V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would do an all motor CTR, but thats just me. Turbo GSR's are all over the place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
depends on what kinda money the guy wants to spend or what his Goal is but if you wanna get the most power out of your money, gsrt

 

$3,500 is a lot for a complete GSR swap bro. I got mine complete for a lot less. But for once I will say. go H2b

 

$3500 is for a whole jdm front clip from the place down here. and i don't wanna do an h2b ive looked into it and i don't wanna deal with that headache.

but like King said gsrt are everywhere ctr is a little different, but don't get me wrong i wouldn't do it just to be different. my ultimate goal is 200 to 300whp. whether i get the ctr or gsr it would be awhile before id start drastically modifying them.
side by side what are the pros and cons for both, and i no ive already looked at the thread about swaps for 92-00 civics, i need more details.

 

Go with the GSR, it's more power for less of a price, and the parts are more common.

"but it says here that the CTR has more power" - does it? Try running them against each other in the same chassis up a hill. The CTR is nice b/c you can wind it out to 59 million RPM, but much like the B16a, it doesn't make any torque, so you get shafted at low RPM and if you're not beating on it hard enough it won't make power.

The GSR is a better deal by a long shot.

 

the difference in torque between them is 4ft/lbs. can that really make that much of a difference? And by low rpm you mean below 5000rpm?

 

One thing that's nice about ctr and itr motors is that they're hand built. So the quality is "better" than a gsr.

With that said, I still got a GSR because it was a better deal.

 

Wait so the price difference between both COMPLETE swaps is only $500.00?

<FONT SIZE="4">GET THE B16B CTR SWAP!!!</FONT>

"Why?"

The transmission alone bro! LSD, shorter gearing, etc. etc. The LSD alone costs well over $500.00.

Normally I'd say get the GS-R, but if that GS-R swap for $3,500.00 doesn't have LSD screw it.

 

Yea you should shop around more. You can easily get a complete JDM B18C swap w/ LSD for about $3,200 shipped.

 

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30010


get an ITR Swap...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jewpont &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the difference in torque between them is 4ft/lbs. can that really make that much of a difference? And by low rpm you mean below 5000rpm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, it starts to make good power around 4k, so "daily driving" when you're not beating the **** outta it (usually kept 1-4k) remains torqueless.

Maybe it's just me, I don't need to see the numbers hmotors or whatever other company gives, I drove my friend's when he had it in his hatch and it pulled up a hill much like the B16a, and unless you were cranking on it at high RPM it was doomed. Not worth the bang, IMO, but hey, it's your money.

 

yea right itr, but i was thinking bout it but i said screw that. i might aswell get a k20 then lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jewpont &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea right itr, but i was thinking bout it but i said screw that. i might aswell get a k20 then lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really, with the ITR you're only dropping what, 20 less hp than the K20? Worth if you consider it's a little more than half the price.

But whatever, for 3-4 grand you can have a stock ints boosted LS running 280whp all day long and it'll eat up the K20, ITR, CTR, and GSR.

Boost = win.

 

One wheel peel = Fail

Look up the specs on both, the CTR is the clear winner. Hell, the transmission alone is worth a boosted LS.

 

CTR FTW!!! i would go with the ctr if the difference is only 500 bucks. the ctr has a much better tranny and the b16b bottom end is similiar to the b18c5 block so if you ever wanted to get more power out of it you can stroke it with no problem just get an oem b18x crank and rods and thats it. b16b is a much better motor than the gsr. the b16b stock is very close to the b18c1 theres a very small difference in torque. the b16b has a different power curve than the b18c1 but i think its a much better motor.

 

1.8l &gt; 1.6l Any day

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CTR FTW!!! i would go with the ctr if the difference is only 500 bucks. the ctr has a much better tranny and the b16b bottom end is similiar to the b18c5 block so if you ever wanted to get more power out of it you can stroke it with no problem just get an oem b18x crank and rods and thats it. b16b is a much better motor than the gsr. the b16b stock is very close to the b18c1 theres a very small difference in torque. the b16b has a different power curve than the b18c1 but i think its a much better motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo.

Like I said before I would normally say "get the B18C" but seriously it's only $500.00 more for a better built engine, LSD, better geared tranny, etc.

The B16B is literally the exact same engine block as the B18C5/1.8L Type R engine, but it's destroked. Add a B18C5 crank and rods and you'd have a high compression B18C5 engine with the already bad-*** CTR pistons everyone loves so much, and the CTR intake cam that everyone also loves so much.

Now tearing apart a cherry bottom end isn't usually my cup of tea, but you could literally buy a crank and rods, re-ring the pistons (or not honestly) and just plastigage the rod and main bearing clearances to get the right sized Honda bearings and you'd be done.

 

So its looking like to me CTR is the way to go? and the vtec is pretty good right?

 

wtf does "and the vtec is pretty good right" mean?

 

I think he means the "pull" from getting into VTEC. Not really sure though....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jewpont &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So its looking like to me CTR is the way to go? and the vtec is pretty good right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll be fine. Just get it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jewpont &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the difference in torque between them is 4ft/lbs. can that really make that much of a difference? And by low rpm you mean below 5000rpm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

The only reason you should grab the CTR swap here is because of the price. Its only $500 more, but Im sure you can get a gsr swap cheaper than that.